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D Kristof

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Everything posted by D Kristof

  1. That's precisely the point I was flailing at but not making contact with. I don't understand the willingness to make that first sale and accept the drop off of so many after the initial disappointment. There are many opportunities and resources being left for discovery only by the few who persevere.
  2. @Nickfixit, you don't dare question those temperatures. They're playing the "we only claimed it would be beer" game. Disappointing.
  3. As Rickbeer suggested keep your temperatures at the low end and add both later. Adding it while the malt sugars are fermenting will only encourage a bulimic feeding frenzy resulting in the fruit flavors and aromas being lost.
  4. FYI. https://byo.com/article/brown-malt/ and https://homebrewanswers.com/amber-malt/ If you want to use both of them you should do a simple mashing. Bring 1.5 qts of water to 160 degrees on your stove. Turn off the heat (if you have an electric range remove your pot from the burner) and stir in your grains. Check the temperature and reheat as necessary to begin your mash around 152 to 155. Cover the pot with a lid and let it sit for 30 to 40 minutes. In another pot begin heating the water following your standard MrBeer recipe instructions. Over your "brewing kettle", pour your mashed grains into a colander and rinse them with the water from the second pot. Bring that to a boil. Remove from the heat and proceed as if following a normal MrBeer recipe.
  5. All kidding aside, I don't see anything wrong with using either or both. You're changing the recipe, but it's nothing like adding cane sugar, maple syrup and honey just because you have them in the pantry.
  6. It's now May 10. Haven't given this up for dead just yet. I haven't heard or seen a response by anyone. Is there ANY interest in a June date or any other date for that matter?
  7. 👆👆👆 I would like to second this idea.
  8. @zorak1066, do you at least have the benefits of Hooterville? Those hot young ladies at Petticoat Junction lived just down the tracks.
  9. Welcome to your new obsession and this forum. Carry on of course. If you have questions, do a quick search. There's hardly a topic that hasn't been discussed over the last decade including food parings and what many think about Michigan Wolverines. Begin your search with the topics pinned by Rickbeer. He has done an excellent job (better than could usually be expected from a Wolverine) summing up much of the knowledge and advice available for new brewers. Sanitation, temperature control and patience. As Zorak has said, you can always drink your mistakes.
  10. First of all I am stunned this question has been left hanging for 9 hours without a response. Secondly, what are you trying to do? Are you wanting to increase the bitterness? Add flavors or aromas? Have you already brewed the HME as is to know what your additions do to alter the final beer? If you google Cluster and Galena they're somewhat similar. Galena is considered to be a bittering hop while Cluster is more universal. Williamette is similar to Tettanager which would be closer than the others to the Czech Pilsner style.
  11. This Saturday, our homebrew club will be brewing a SMASH using Marris Otter and US-05. Our club sponsor, Municipal Brew Works in Hamilton, OH will be providing the wort and bittering hops. Club members will be responsible for selecting a hop for flavor and aroma. I'm using East Kent Golding. I don't yet know any specifics about the wort or bittering hops.
  12. Two things I read on that page this morning. "Kenny great question. Fermentation temperature is very important. The good thing about using our yeast from Coopers is that its range is AMAZING! It ferments anywhere from 68 to 78 degrees. A Stick on thermometer is great to use and lets you know you are in the right range." And, "it can go lower to 65 but all that is going to do is slow down your fermentation. 68 to 78 is the proper range and 70-72 is the ideal fermentation temperature."
  13. I'll second that about Ashley and the FB page. Have you noticed the MrBeer staff all seems to be new brewers? If I was just starting out I'd have reservations taking advice from somebody who has only brewed a few batches of their own. It's like a 16 year old who's had his/her driver's license for a few months leading the drivers' training classes.
  14. I've started answering questions and trying to link to this forum. I've suggested new brewers should check out this forum and participate. All in all, I have the feeling this forum is being phased out. We've all noticed the lack of participation by Mr. Beer.
  15. @Rotty, if you add water, LME, DME, hops, etc., you will change the flavor profile of the MrBeer HME. The bigger question is, "changed it by how much?" That can only be determined by you the brewer and your ability to taste the differences. Reading about classic styles, practicing steeping grains, practicing partial mashes, dry hopping, hop boils etc., you can make each batch your signature brew. The opportunities are endless. The only restrictions are how adventurous you are, how quickly you can learn new skills, and how fast you can drink beer to free up bottles and storage space for your pipeline.
  16. Rickbeer is the answer man. Usually, for home brewers time cures most ills. The MrBeer yeast is Cooper's ale yeast. It is one of the most temperature ambivalent yeasts available. Bottle the CAL and let em sit.
  17. @Marion, I have it on good authority he's really good at that sort of thing.
  18. In other words, as @Brian N.has already stated, you can only know estimated ABV.
  19. One final comment from me on this topic. If you are wondering why the MrBeer directions have so much sugar recommended remember their target customers are new brewers. If the kit is placed on a kitchen counter top with ambient air temps at the upper end of the recommended range, the higher priming rate will compensate for the CO2 off gassing during fermentation. The down side is, the fewer brewers who do keep theirs on the cooler end risk gushers. When those guys turn to this forum, it's unfortunate that our first thoughts some times jump to conclusions of incomplete fermentation or infections.
  20. Cooler liquids retain more gas than warmer liquids. If your temperatures remained low your beer retained more CO2 from fermentation than it would have if warmer. Starting with a higher carbonation level you need less sugar to reach the final carbonation level desired.
  21. Depends upon the circumstances. Prior to pitching yeast the refractometer is quickest and easiest. After fermentation that remains true however the refractometer will not give you an accurate or true gravity since the alcohol and water solution refracts light differently. I use my refractometer to monitor changes in gravity. When specific gravity stops changing I use the hydrometer to take a final gravity reading. The sample goes into my trub bottle and my stomach.
  22. More appropriate for the Community Drain Pipe heading, but as long as @RickBeer isn't around we'll let your first mistake slide.
  23. @ symbol and the person's forum name. Usually will pop up forum mdmber names with those letters as you're typing.
  24. The booster packs are only a mix of sugars. The golden LME will add more mouthfeel and better head retention than the booster packs. The deluxe refill will be better for delaying the molasses' licorice aftertaste.
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