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Shrike

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Everything posted by Shrike

  1. @Mic Todd the only time I'll use brown sugar is occasionally with a coffee stout. I don't think you'll enjoy it at all used with a CAL. Like @BDawg62 said, steeping some grains will give you some color and add a more pleasing flavor; even 4 ounces of crystal 40 or 60 will make a difference. It's your beer, brew it how you want. Just note that of all the responses on here (which includes some from VERY experienced and knowledgeable brewers, folks that I still learn things from) not one has been "Hell yeah, brown sugar with a CAL will be great!" 🤔
  2. The beer doesn't contract; water can't be compressed under normal circumstances. Particles within the beer, however, get denser with the colder temp's and thus fall to the bottom of the LBK. ETA: Oh, and to answer the question, yes, just put the LBK in the cooler or fridge, preferably in a spot where it won't get jostled. Most people also like to put something under the spout end of the LBK so that the trub compacts away from it (I do this throughout the whole fermentation). Something about the thickness of a CD case is sufficient.
  3. Having never done a pumpkin beer I have nothing to add as far as what you can expect. I just want to ask that you follow-up on this thread once you start drinking them as I'm very curious as to how the batch'll turn out.
  4. I do that too with excess MRB yeast packets. It keeps the little cannibals happy. 😀
  5. No, it won't ruin the flavor of your beer. They'll just be a bit over-carb'ed. When it comes time to drink one, you can pour a glass, put it in the fridge for a bit to let some of the CO2 escape, then drink it. Having said that, I've found that the flip-top bottles do not hold carbonation very well for long periods of time. They seem airtight, but the CO2 will leak out as the beer sits and conditions. I only use them for beers that I'll be drinking relatively quickly after bottling, such as IPAs. The Double Black Diamond recommended conditioning time is 2-6 months. Personally, I wouldn't start drinking them until they've conditioned for four months. At that time, you may pop the top of one and find that there's very little gas at all. If that's the case you can "recarbonate" them by popping the tops, dropping in another carb drop (with clean hands, of course ), re-sealing, and letting them sit for another three weeks.
  6. You certainly can do that. The CAL is the HME I use the most for playing around with. I usually use one booster pack, 6-8oz grains, and a hop boil along with dry hopping. They've all turned out pretty well. By itself it's pretty bland, but with a few additions you can make some damned tasty beers with the CAL.
  7. It'll be fine. LME (and DME) can be boiled with no worries. In fact, with some recipes that have hop additions you NEED to boil the LME. HME, however, should NOT be boiled.
  8. Yes, but it will shift the balance towards more malt flavor. You might want to add a bit of hops to offset the extra malt. Willamette or Fuggles for about 10 minutes or at flameout would be a nice addition without being too assertive.
  9. No, it doesn't really affect the flavor. It just looked like you were going for a refreshing Kolsch-style beer, one that you can put a few away on a hot day and not get too sloshed. 🤑 I try and keep my session brews under 5% ABV, usually closer to 4%. But it's your beer and if you want that extra oomph, go for it. It's still going to be tasty and refreshing. And I also like my high octane brews. ☺️
  10. Looks like it'll make a tasty beer. I'd go with the Golden Light DME and omit the Booster, but that's just me. Brew that beer!
  11. It'll be ever so slightly sweeter and a smidge darker than it would have been if brewed normally. You'll get maybe a 0.1-0.2% ABV boost, depending on how efficient the mash was. Like @Jdub says, it should be tasty. If it turns out to your liking you can try brewing it again as per the recipe just to see the differences.
  12. I'd go two months, then put one in the fridge. Drink it three days later. If it's to your liking, throw a couple more in the fridge to enjoy. But for ones you don't plan on drinking right away, don't put them in the fridge. Leave them to condition at room temperature; they'll improve as they age.
  13. That's what it is to me. I've wondered in the past if some people might be more susceptible to it than others. Kind of like how some people enjoy cilantro but others abhor it.
  14. Those are a lot of reasons why I stick with HME. I like doing two gallon batches; five gallons is just too much to work with, bottle, etc. Plus, if I'm not too fond of the final product, I'd rather have two gallons to slog through than five. The darker color doesn't bother me. If it tastes good I'm happy. And as I posted earlier, doing PMs and hop additions can cancel the twang pretty handily. When I had family visit earlier this year they preferred some of the MRB brews we sampled to some of the craft beers we had while eating out. That was a nice little ego boost. And to me, this is a fun hobby. I spend a couple of hours every ten days or so bottling and brewing, and I get tasty beer as a result. When I look at a setup like @Creeps McLane has posted photos of I think "Man, that looks so cool...but it also looks like work." It's what he enjoys doing, but it's not for me; I don't want my fun hobby to become a chore.
  15. Creeps, speaking for myself, you have no need to hesitate about speaking your mind; your reputation on this forum is solid as can be. I too think that the HME is the source of the twang. But I also think that the partial mash recipes - either from the added grain, the hops, or both - work well in minimizing it. Some of the PM IPAs I've brewed have had no trace of twang, and neither have the PM stouts. The Crafty Bitch brews I make with the CAL have a total of 6oz of grains and 1.5oz of hops added...and no twang to be found. And more bitter and hoppy HMEs also have less, at least for me. I brewed Long Play IPA + 4oz carapils and it had no twang. When I did the same with an HME like American Ale? Twang.
  16. A couple of us have this one from Lowe's. See this thread for discussion. I haven't had any problems at all with mine.
  17. Proper temperature control was the single greatest tip I learned from this forum. As far as the color of the final product is concerned, from what I've seen the older the HME gets, the darker the beer will be. It doesn't bother me if the final product is darker than expected, though; how it tastes is more important.
  18. I enjoy the Churchill's, it's tasty "as is". I let mine condition for six weeks before trying my first one. I didn't think it was quite ready yet, so I let another two weeks go by before trying one again. It was good to go. As you're new to the hobby, though, I recommend going ahead and trying one after carbonation is complete. Then try one once a week afterwards just to see how conditioning benefits the beer.
  19. Damn, I was hoping to read about a Curry Goat Amber Ale. 😄
  20. That's one odd autocorrect. Either that, or you modify the recipe in bizarre ways. 🤩
  21. I had to revise my schedule today. I received my latest order from MRB. While sorting everything out I dropped a CAL on the floor...which dented the can pretty well. So I moved that to the top of the Brew Queue. One benefit of putting it at the top is that my first batch of WDA I brewed a couple of months ago will have reached minimum conditioning time before I brew the next WDA. So I'll get to taste it and figure how I want to tinker with it...if at all. - CALEX#3 - Tangerously Hoppy IPA - Winter Dark Ale - Redwood Ale - Santa Rita Pale Ale - Crater Stout Then depending on the weather I'll transition to lagers for a couple of months.
  22. CAL is the HME I use to play with the most. Here's the last one I made: - One CAL HME - Two of the "new" booster packets. - 2oz. each Munich, flaked red wheat, and two-row Mash grains for 30 minutes, add booster, bring to a boil. - 1/2oz Waimea for 30 minutes - 1/2oz Citra for 20 - 1/2oz Citra for 10 - MRB Yeast It came out pretty good; I enjoyed the grain combination. The Waimea hops were overkill, though; it came out too bitter. Next time I brew it I'll do everything the same except omit the Waimae and add a dry hop of Citra.
  23. This. When I got back into brewing a little over two years ago, I was like "What? I'm supposed to wait four months before drinking these? WHAT THE HELL?!?" . But once the pipeline got built up, it became no big deal. Hell, I've tucked away a batch that needed six months conditioning before and actually forgotten about it until the reminder popped up on my phone to try one. Next month my remaining Lock/Stocks will turn two years old. I'm not a patient person by nature, but this hobby demands it...
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