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Shrike

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Everything posted by Shrike

  1. The "3-4" apparently came about as a result of the experiences of many veteran MRB brewers on this forum. Yes, you can bottle after 11-12 days. But their results indicated that going three weeks led to a better beer. I do all mine for three weeks (or on rare occasions when I'm able to cold crash, 18 days plus three cold crashing.)
  2. My tentative schedule: - WDA Enhanced (again) - Witch's Flight (again) - AuFlanders Belgian Extra Pale Ale. This will be my version of Briess's Belgian EPA recipe, with minor changes to the hops and mash bill. It'll be the first brew I will have done that includes no HME. I'm looking forward to it. - Day After Day IPA - Egocentric Jerk Ale - Black Beer'd Porter (again).
  3. It's one of the most common causes and the simplest explanation.
  4. Yep, black malt is put in water at room temperature for a couple of hours before brewing. That's a tasty recipe.
  5. As a can of extract gets older, the beer it produces sometimes appears darker. The taste should be unaffected, though.
  6. The differences are essentially in whether starches are being converted to fermentable sugars or not. When steeping, the grains being used have been malted in such a way that very little starches are left that can be converted, or they can't release enzymes that can convert any remaining starches. Think of it as making a cup of tea. The leaves in the tea bag impart taste, color, and body into the water. That's what's going on with steeped grain. They will affect the color, taste, body, and head retention of your beer. What they won't do is increase ABV (or if any starches do convert, the ABV increase is negligible). Examples of steeping grains include Carapils, Crystal -15, -40, -60, and -120, and Chocolate malt. During mashing, though, grains are used that when heated in the water release enzymes. These enzymes go to work converting starches into fermentable sugars. Those sugars are then eaten by the yeast and converted into alcohol during fermentation. The grains being used for mashing are sometimes referred to as "Base Malts", as they form the basis for beers. Examples include 2-row, 6-row, Marris Otter, Munich, Vienna, and Pale. So if conversion of starches is taking place, it's a mash. If not, it's a steep. In the MRB description you quoted, they say "Can be steeped, but more efficient if mashed" because any remaining starches in the steeping grains will be converted if mashed with a base malt. When doing a steep, I go for 30 minutes. When mashing I try to go for 45 minutes if I have the time. I keep the temps between 150-155.
  7. That might be me. I started out steeping four oz of carapils when brewing non partial mash recipes. I did this to help with head retention and body, and also because the addition of steeped/mashed grains seems to alleviate or even eliminate the dreaded "extract twang". Because of how it's malted, conventional wisdom is that there are no starches remaining in carapils that can be converted into fermentable sugars , so it doesn't add ABV. Kedogn and I were discussing this on here and he linked to an article that showed through experimentation that almost 20% of potential fermentable sugars can remain in carapils after malting. So I thought "Hey, that's potential ABV going to waste with every brew. SACRILEGE!" So I decided to start adding some 2-row along with the carapils. Two reasons for this: first, during mashing, the enzymes in the 2-row will convert some of the remaining starches in the carapils into sugars, and second, because 2-row is cheap so why not? 😁 Is it really making a big difference? Probably not. But if there are potential fermentables going to waste, I figure why not try and take advantage of them. So I now when I brew a beer that isn't a PM I mash four oz of carapils with two ounces of 2-row.
  8. No need to stir. The yeast know their job and will do their duty.
  9. @MRB-Rick, can you help?
  10. I don't have one of them, so I can't help. But if you e-mail MRB customer service I'm sure they'll help you.
  11. I think that's the first one of their recipes I've seen that says to just dump the hop pellets in.
  12. Additionally, the recipe includes only two hop sacks. As written it requires three. With the flaked oats it needs three. Either way, this looks tasty and I've added it to my "to brew queue".
  13. Woohoo, congrat's! It's such a great feeling making that batch that makes you think "I CAN brew damned good beer in my kitchen."
  14. Like mentioned earlier I'd definitely go with the Willamette.
  15. In addition, some of my mistakes have gone into a batch of beer chili or chicken marinades. Then there's always cooking some bratwurst in them.
  16. I recommend adding it to each glass as you drink them. Start with a little, taste it, if it needs more add more. Or do what I'd do and turn them into boilermakers by just adding a whole shot.
  17. Proper temperature control during fermentation (which I learned about on this forum) was the single greatest factor that improved the quality of my beers.
  18. Plug it into QBrew and see what you'll get.
  19. I've noticed that too. I almost wanted to start answering people by posting links to the relevant topic on this forum. But if I did that I'd start getting waaaay to many notifications in FB.
  20. Four utensils go into my LBK for sanitizing: First, a silicone spatula. Second, a silicone whisk. Third, a can opener that has no sharp edges. Finally and potentially most dangerous, the kitchen shears I use to open the yeast packet and LME packets (If used). These are placed very carefully on top of the other utensils. The LBK sits in a spot where there is practically zero probability of it being jostled and absolutely zero probability of it being dropped. This method has served me faithfully through all my brews. But you should do what makes you most comfortable. Making home brew shouldn't be stressful, so if you want to sanitize your utensils outside of the LBK, you should do so.
  21. "Stole"? I don't think so. The first time I used the "send them to me" line was in regard to unbanded Cuban cigars about a decade ago. It's not exactly an original or hard line to come up with.
  22. Just send them all to me. I'll sample them and give you an estimated ABV based on experience. 😁
  23. You have to ask yourself what you're trying to achieve and what if anything you're willing to alter in the taste of the final product. If you just want to add ABV, the MRB booster packs work great. But anything...yes, anything...with yeast-edible sugar in it will boost your ABV. But almost all of them will also affect the taste of your beer. For example, if you're brewing an IPA you probably don't want to add a bunch of brown sugar and honey to the wort for an ABV boost. Why? Because brewing a dry IPA with a slight licorice taste means the terrorists have won. 😜 You can add more malt in the form LME or DME...but the increase in malt may shift the balance of the beer away from the bitterness and hoppiness that define the IPA style. So hop additions may be desired in order to counter the added malt. So it comes down to why is booster not acceptable in your goal of boosting ABV?
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