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Shrike

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Everything posted by Shrike

  1. Yep, use both cans. Follow the instructions from the link MiniYoda shared above, use good sanitation, keep the wort temperature around 65 during fermentation, go a full three weeks, and you should be fine.
  2. Do you remember what the expiration date on the can of HME was? As HME gets older, it darkens a bit.
  3. It's still good. The final product will be darker than would a batch made with "fresher" HME. You'll want to get new yeast, though. From the MRB folks:
  4. No, "Should I sanitize it?" is a silly question. "What's the easiest way to sanitize it?" is not.
  5. MRB's come a long way during your hiatus. They have some damned tasty recipes, especially some of the partial mash ones.
  6. Is there a date on that can? Go three weeks in the fermenter.
  7. I don't have an answer to that question. But for the peppers I ferment for my hot sauces I use a tbsp of the brine from a previous batch whenever I start a new one, just to jump start fermentation. I've never noticed any off flavors. But then again, it's only a small portion of the total brine which is usually two cups. And with that, I think we've fully hijacked this thread.
  8. Proper temperature control (mainly during those critical first few days of fermentation) is probably the single biggest factor that improved the quality of my beers. Here's a good thread on temperature control. I used the cooler/ice bottle method for a while until I realized this hobby had me hooked. Now I use the temperature-controlled mini fridge for fermenting. Oh, and welcome to the hobby, @CANbeernewbie!
  9. This! My first time using a bottling wand was very frustrating...until I learned to insert it all the way, then just pull it out a little (Giggity). It worked like a charm after that. And welcome down the slippery slope.
  10. Yep, what BDawg said. It'll help you get your process down. And yes, it makes a rather bland beer. So just drop a shot of bourbon in it when you drink them. Alternatively, you could set it aside until you've got some brews under your belt and then use it as a base HME for an existing MRB recipe. Or you can try making your own. I brew the CAL (Classic American Light) several times a year. But I steep/mash some grains, add booster or LME, and use additional hops. I've made some pretty tasty beers that way.
  11. I perv mine all the time. It's mine, I can look at it all I want! 😜 😊
  12. MRB's come a long way since Cooper got 'em. Some of the partial mash recipes make outstanding beers.
  13. I'm with you; I think we're in the minority as most people seem to really like it. It's pretty much the only recipe that uses BAA that I don't care for at all. As to the OP's question, no it's not very hoppy. And like Jdub, I think the addition of the brown sugar gives it an unpleasant taste.
  14. Hell yeah, 'Murca!!! 😄
  15. Speaking of which, Forum Friends, they are coming. Let's greet them warmly and help them...no matter how many times the questions have been asked and answered. 😜 We were all newbies once. I don't know if I'd even still be brewing if it weren't for the great advice I found here.
  16. Steeping and Mashing Grains 101, from MRB website.
  17. They do a New Year's sale every year. It's already started: 19% off pretty much everything.
  18. Both are tasty straight up. The only recipe I've made using the Long Play is Golden Empire. It's one of my favorite MRB IPA recipes. I have Tangerously Hoppy on hand but won't be brewing it until I switch back to making ales in a couple of months.
  19. They come in quite handy; I received one for Christmas a few years ago and use it often.
  20. I vacuum seal and put them in the fridge.
  21. Welcome to the hobby...and down the slippery slope. As Rick said, a standard HME is 3.1% ABV. The craft refills are 5.5%. There are many, many ways to increase ABV. Some affect flavor, some don't. Adding LME will do both. As you continue with the hobby, you'll notice that many recipes that have added LME (or DME) also have added hops. That's because adding more malt extract makes the final beer - you guessed it - more malty. So hops are added to the boil for a short time, at flameout, or as a dry hop in order to balance the final brew. Adding sugars also increases ABV. Depending on the type of sugar you use, you may notice a change in the taste of the final beer. People use table sugar, brown sugar, agave syrup, lactose, candy sugar, honey, maple syrup...you name it, people probably brew with it. I recommend reading up on what these can do before brewing with them as the end result may not be what you expect. A great example of this is honey. If you add honey to a brew, your beer will NOT have a honey taste to it. The yeast will tear through all of the sugars in the honey; what's left is a "dry" flavor. Another way to increase ABV is the old-fashioned way: mashing grains (which produces natural sugars that are eaten by the yeast). When you make the move to partial mash recipes you'll see this in action.
  22. When I get an excess of yeast packets on hand I'll toss the odd one in for the boil. It hasn't affected the flavor of the end product at all that I've been able to tell.
  23. Many, many extract brewers brew with just DME for the wort. But they also use hops; as RickBeer says, it really ain't beer without hops. As far as how much DME equates to a MRB recipe, approximately eight ounces of DME produces about 1% ABV. So based on that, for a 4% ABV beer you'd want about two pounds of DME, three pounds for a 6%, etc. Note, though, that the yeast you use will also affect those ABV levels. You can plug what you're using into QBrew or other brewing software to get truer numbers. But really, you're going to want some hops. People brewing only with DME have hop schedules that can be 60-75 minutes long.
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