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Everything posted by hotrod3539

  1. From someone who had done this..... Make sure your cider is only been UV light treated or pasturized ONLY! If it has preservatives in it it will not work since one of the preservatives loves to kill yeast. That said, No need to Dilute with water, or add anything but yeast. I like to use cider from a local orchard and it turns out great, not too dry but not as sweet as say a Reds (see linked post above by Rickbeer) I follow the 3-4-3 with my cider... 3 weeks ferment, 4 weeks carb/condition minimum, 3 days in fridge before drinking.
  2. sooooo a Mead thread and not one peep from @MRB Tim.......... is he sick???
  3. No, flavor wise, it will not be affected, just abv%. I agree with chasing flavor not abv.
  4. First off, Welcome to the Forum, and if you are new to brewing, welcome to the hobby! Depending on what you are looking for in your finished product will depend on what you do.... Booster only ups the ABV% and adds just a tiny bit to head retention. LME (depending on which you are using) will add color, flavor, and up the ABV% some. You can use both in a batch no issues. Some folks do not use booster and use only LME. Some use just the Booster, and some use both. It is completely up to you in what you do. As for me, my opinion, I would skip the booster and use a LME or two to match what you are brewing, if a light beer, go for golden and/or pale, if a darker beer, go for robust and/or smooth.
  5. Pro tip: Make sure you do that before you draw anymore samples if you plan to return them to the LBK (also sanitize your sample tube and hydrometer) and do it again at bottling time. Since the spigot is open to the air at all times, it is possible for bacteria, wild yeast, and/or dirt to get all up in it and cause havoc later down the road.
  6. hmmm the instructions on my container say 1 Tablespoon/5 gallons. I looked back at my notes and first batch was at a ph of 6.8, second batch (with the stabalizer) was 5.2 on the nose. mind you i took the readings right before mash out so i dont know if that skewed the results any. I will keep experimenting and see if i get anything different in future batches. (and get pre mash in ph reading)
  7. Interesting... I have a container of it, used it in one AG batch so far (mainly because i kept forgetting about it) and It did do as advertised it set the PH at 5.2 and i did not get any off flavors from it...... ( it was in my last batch of Bleeding Buckeye added it right after i dropped in the grains))
  8. Welcome! I think i can say for all of us (Since we all have been where you are)..... Its your first batch... at best it will be meh.. drinkable. As you learn and improve on how you do the process, it will get better. Patience is key. Read, read, read, take notes, ask questions, we are here to help, then read, read, read again. Also.. i would nudge that temp down to about 65*F for better results.
  9. Plain old oxyclean free works great as well (look for it either in the cleaning products or more than likely the laundry soap area)
  10. nope, its not rated for carbing pressures and not designed for it.
  11. Secondary fermentation is NOT done with carbonation drops or sugar of any kind. The sole purpose of secondary fermentation is to get the beer off of the trub and allow it to age and clarify without running the risk of off flavors from the beer sitting on the trub for prolonged time. If you are wanting to carbonate and condition, use a proper vessel such as a bottle or a proper stainless steel keg. The LBK is for fermentation only and not carbonating.
  12. @Werwer2018 Dude, there are many responses to your question and some explanations right here in this thread including one from a Mr. Beer CS rep himself, so yes, you did get an answer from Customer service (including an apology) It may not have been the answer you already had set in your mind you wanted (go here, they have it, brew on and enjoy) but it was an acceptable answer on how to help solve your query. The most valuable answer came from DEFbrewer that gave you information on the parent company (Coopers), which is much easier to get in store in Canada, including a store locator link that can narrow things down even more. Even if you do a quick Google search it would be of good help.
  13. Classic American light.... Condition that 6 weeks..... trust me....... BUT for a little learning process... at 4 weeks, put one bottle in the fridge for 3 full days, open and consume on 4th day. Take notes.... then wait 2 more weeks (total of 6) repeat and compare notes you will see.....
  14. Or simply dont tell them whats in the box. if properly packaged... no one will know except the sender and the receiver.
  15. For your Yeast question, i will deffer to @Bonsai & Brews reply above. For the HME question, i dont think it can be duplicated that way as the flavor profile is a bit different between the two. @MRB Josh R or @MRB Tim might be able to shed more light on the subject.
  16. What info are you looking for @C-Note 1959? Yes, it is a seasonal, they probably sold out of it, not sure if they will have more.......
  17. Naturally carbonating in the bottle (adding the sugar and capping, letting the yeast have a snack creating some co2) will produce a bit of trub in the bottles. This is completely normal and considered a good thing. As mentioned above, just slowly pour into a glass and avoid pouring the "gunk" in the bottom of the bottle.
  18. LOL! I know how you feel, i was up to 3 LBKs with in the first month. I will make one recommendation... do not go too fast, it can cause frustration, anger, and bad beer. Take the time to read, read, read and then read some more there is great information around this form, Feel free to ask questions, we are here to help. Learn and develop the process and hone it well, you will be rewarded for your efforts in the way of better beer. Cheers and welcome to your new obsession.... ooops i mean hobby!
  19. No problem! You can order just the booster by its self from the Mr. Beer website. To get the 1.3% you will need 2 of the small pouches per batch.
  20. Booster only adds abv% (1.3% to be a bit more precise) and does nothing else for the beer. Long story short.... they are not required and your brew will be just fine without it.
  21. Working on making sure I can get the time off work and clearing it with the wife.
  22. @Ryan gardner Put the LBK into your refrigerator for 3 days, this will allow the yeast trub to compact down and not come out into your bottles so easily, also prop the spigot end up an inch or two when you do that will also help get the trub away from the spigot for bottling. This process is called "Cold crashing" there is a pinned thread by @RickBeer explaining the process in more detail here:
  23. Agree with above..... if strictly hme/lme/dme with no grains, no clarifying agent needed. Any where grains are used, I will add clarifying agent and never to any wheat beers and the like.... and have been known to skip the clarifier for porters and stouts where its dark enough you wont be able to tell...
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