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Everything posted by hotrod3539

  1. Irish Moss is a seaweed derived fining agent used by many brewers to help make a clear beer without the need for a filter, and to prevent chill haze. Irish Moss accelerates protein coagulation during the end of the boil which helps prevent chill haze. Add 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons to the last 15 minutes of the boil.
  2. Aeration before fermentation = good Aeration after fermentation = bad
  3. I do 5 gallon batches as well. i range from Mr. Beer to partials to all grain (BIAB style)depending on time, supply and mood....
  4. Ferment wort temp 64-67*F (NOT Ambient air temp, during fermentation, wort temps can be about 3*F higher than ambient temp) Condition 70-72*F
  5. @Parplus2 here is My two cents..... wait about a month longer...you simply didnt have enough CO2...... the carbing process takes about 5-6 weeks at less than 70* with testing that i have done.... with that said in my expirence, porters do much better with a few months carb/conditioning time. as a general rule always wait 4 weeks from bottling before tossing one in the fridge. refrigerate for 3 full days then on the fourth open and taste. As long as you well mixed (gently) the sugar solution into the beer you should be just fine on the sugar. Give it more time.
  6. Maybe this will help when @MRB Josh R or @MRB Tim takes a look.... here is where the discrepancies are (Highlighted in red text) RECIPE INCLUDES: 1 Bewitched Amber Ale (Yeast under lid, you wonโ€™t be using this) 3 Brewmax LME - Pale 4 oz Crystal 40 2 oz Roasted Barley 2 oz Peated Malt* 1 Package Fuggle Hop Pellets (1/2 oz) 1 oz Heather Tips 1 Packet Safale US-04 Yeast 2 Muslin Sacks 1 Packet No-Rinse Cleanser Bring the grain water to a boil, then remove from heat. Open the can of Brewing Extract and the 2 LME Softpacks and pour the contents into the hot mixture. Stir until thoroughly mixed. This mixture of unfermented beer is called โ€œwortโ€. From cart list: Heathers: Scotch Ale 1 x Bewitched Amber Ale 1 x BrewMax LME SoftPack - Pale 1 x Crystal Malt 40 1 x Roasted Barley 1 x Peated Malt 1 x Fuggle Pellet Hops 1 x Heather Tips 1 x Safale S-04 Dry Ale Yeast 2 x Muslin Sack 1 x No-Rinse Cleanser
  7. 3 weeks Fermenting, 4 weeks minimum carb/conditioning time at room temp (70-72*F) (so, yes we are at about 2 months at this point) Place ONE bottle in the refrigerator for 3 full days, open and drink on day 4 If it tastes ok but you feel it could be better, (take notes... you will reference them later) let the rest sit at room temp for another 4 weeks, then repeat the chilling and drinking of one bottle, (compare to previously taken notes... take notes from this tasting) if it tastes ok or good but you feel it could be better, repeat previous instructions, if it tastes great and you are 100% satisfied then refrigerate all the remaining bottles and enjoy responsibly!
  8. @thebestofstuff Wow.... that video, while that might work in a pinch (as in i am desperate and neeeeeeeedddd beer but dont own any equipment...) is NOT (in my humble little opinion) the best way to go. If you have fermenters already that will hold 2-2.5 gallons (or 2-1 gallon fermenters you can split the wort and yeast between them) air locks and such, thats really all you need... the refill is not picky what it ferments in.... Follow the instructions that come with the refill and use what equipment you already have. you will need up to 2 gallons of water total. Generally the refill kits come with the booster packs and a packet of no rinse cleanser/sanitizer....(at least the ones direct from Mr Beer do) The Booster will only add some ABV % and a small bit of mouth feel and is not necessary in order to brew the refill. the refill will be about 3.2% ABV on its own... no booster. the booster adds about 1.3% ABV (if using 2 small pouches....Each pouch of Booster adds about 0.65% ABV per batch. 2 of the newer small packs equal the older one big pack seen in the video.) .... And remember, You can always head over to https://www.mrbeer.com/ and pick up any additional items such as a LBK (about $10 US) and booster ( $1.75 US per pack) if you so desire.... Or if you prefer you can pick up a kit that includes a LBK for $45-$50 USD (no bottles) or one that has a LBK and Bottles for $60-$65 US.... The choices are yours and yours alone!! (we here on the forum can help guide you as needed)
  9. Perving your beer is NOT a sin, it's your beer, perv it all you want! Just do not open the LBK. The dark amber color of the LBK will keep the sunlight out for the most part while you are having a peak but I wouldn't leave it in direct sunlight for a while.
  10. ^^^^^ that. Just enough CO2 to clear out the oxygen and fill up the head space.
  11. Lol! No worries from me! I enjoy some good friendly banter from time to time! I wasn't sure how that game was going to go... but hey... ya win some, ya lose some!
  12. Just as I thought I liked you.... now not so much... Lol! ๐Ÿ˜… But no, this has been around for many years now. On a side note, his attempt failed to plant the flag, our turf withstood the attempted destruction and broke the pole of the flag. #FAILEDtoplanttheflag #GOBUCKS!!
  13. Yes, the Bleeding Buckeye recipe comes from Elevator Brewing Co. Here in Columbus Ohio. And it is one they have in production and do retail it. I agree with ya Creeps on your thought process about not entering it into a competition.
  14. Is it what i think it is?? If it is, i think you will like it.
  15. ๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”
  16. Lactose is added at end of boil.... generally at flameout but sometimes you can add in last 10-15 min.
  17. ๐ŸŽถ๐ŸŽต๐ŸŽถ๐ŸŽต 91 bottles of beer on the wall, 91 bottles of beer!๐ŸŽต๐ŸŽต๐ŸŽถ๐ŸŽถ๐ŸŽต
  18. Welcome @SilverBrewerWI!! Thank you for your service! (im an army brat.. My dad is retired Army...)
  19. I store right side up (label facing normal, deep side up) then when i submerge the can in hot water (after removing the label or you can remove the label after the hot water, before you open) i flip the can upside down so that the side that you open is up. As it warms this allows the extract to release from the lid some so that there is less to try and scrape off the lid.
  20. The line that sticks in my mind always is "Sanitize ANYTHING that will come into contact with your wort/beer after boiling" (also stated as "from this point on" in some instructions) so i have always sanitized the spigot in and out before bottling/keging. If i open fermenter for dry hopping/additions i will resanitize the lid and opening (and airlock if using that style fermenter) just as safe measure. I use Star San and i will keep some in a spray bottle and some in a covered tub so i have some on hand made up for precautionary purposes during fermentation. I will make up fresh for bottling/keging time.
  21. Here is what I do.... Take a qtip or rolled up paper towel and clean out any remaining beer in the spigot after drawing sample. Take a clean qtip or rolled up paper towel and dunk in sanitizer, then run it inside the spigot, use paper towel dunked in sanitizer to wipe exterior of spigot. If using sanitizer in a spray bottle, spray the heck out of the interior and exterior of spigot. Allow to sit for the amount of time the sanitizer manufacturer recommends then bottle as normal. If you are going to return the sample to the lbk and not drink it, make sure you sanitize your hydrometer, sampling tube and your spigot (following the above instructions for spigot sanitizing) before drawing the sample.
  22. OH NO!!!!!!!!! I have used commercial yeasts with no issues, but i do sanitize the crap out of the exterior of the packet and the scissors i use to open them. Depending on how you sanitized/sterilized and/or handled the hop bag after (i always sanitize everything that might come in contact with the bag (including hands, scissors, hop packets, plates, cups........etc.)during its filling and use a sanitized/sterilized covered glass/measuring cup to transport it to its destination) it is possible something undesirable came along for the ride. Errant bug floating around the basement is a possibility, but i have to ask... has this only happened on any batches you have opened for additions/dry hopping while the LBK has been in the basement or others not opened for additions/dry hopping as well? if so i would look around your basement for any signs of mold or other unsightly issues and take proper cleaning/remediation steps as needed. Did you use any utensil that you may have used on your other infected batch (or batches) that was used on this one? Maybe the bug hid on that. If so... toss and replace. Sadly, yes, toss this LBK out and replace it. These are my ramblings and questions in an attempt to help solve a troubling issue. I hope they help......
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