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hotrod3539

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Everything posted by hotrod3539

  1. Mostly use amazon just for review purposes, but will check price for comparison purposes. I do the same thing, i will look around and do a google search just for the item i am interested in just for price comparison. Grains i will either get from Ritebrew or my LHBS
  2. Another plus for Ritebrew.... I placed the order today after the posted cutoff for same day shipping (within an hour so not too horribly late)..... but i have my tracking number and the package is already in transit.
  3. I did a search and they had it the cheapest price (even cheaper than the almighty amazon) i read every single review i could find (and there was well over 500) and most if not all the negative comments were from 2015 and back so i am guessing over the years they did some improvements. if i remember correctly, it was you that turned me on to them. i use them (i simply love the grain quick select and the fact they will mill and mix them for you at a real reasonable price) and a couple others (Label peelers and Austin home brew) as much as possible and try to utilize my LHBS when feasible. I have been trying to avoid northen and midwest since i found out they are in with InBev but once in a while they will have a deal too good to pass up. lol! you got the fool part right! But in all seriousness, i probably wouldnt be where i am without the awesome help from everyone here at the forum.
  4. Just found out i was requested/voluntold (friends were talking and wife volunteered me hence the voluntold) to brew a beer for a tailgate party in November (small group of friends no huge biggie 5 gallon keg should suffice) so the trigger has been pulled (i want to give this time (as close to 4 weeks as i can get) to condition in the keg before i carb it hence the fast ordering) and i ordered the 16 gallon ( http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/840784.htm ) kettle with all the "bells and whistles" along with a barb fitting and hose for transfering the wort, and the grains and ingredients to brew the batch. Thank you @Creeps McLane, @kedogn, and @RickBeer for the words of encouragement and the upsize sugestions. (Creeps, i am not sure if this is welded bulkheads or not but this pot fits in my budget and i know a few welders that can turn them into welded ones at a later time if needed)
  5. When i first started out with my Mr.B kit i was hooked. I researched and studied and took small steps (though some felt like giant leaps) Moved up to partials rather quick and then to 5 gallon and BIAB (which then caused the move to the world of outside brewing), still researching and studying the entire way. I plan on staying at the BIAB level as space (and wife) constraints keep me limited. I also do find BIAB is a nice step into the AG world with the comfort of the partial mash style (think like steeping your grains in a partial mash but its the whole kit and kaboodle like all grain). i still study and research on how i can improve my brewing and its processes within the parameters of my chosen styles. This hobby fits me and I sometimes i ask myself "why didnt i get into this sooner?" to which the answer is always "you started it when you were supposed to and ready for it."
  6. I have a darkstar propane burner for outside so no worries there
  7. This is the one I was looking at Creeps.... there is a 16 gallon option as well. http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/840782.htm I don't plan on ever quitting brewing. I enjoy it tons as a hobby. 5 gallon is perfect for me as my plans are to keep this a hobby and me and the wife don't consume tons of beer. I still plan on doing some 2gal mr.b stuff too.
  8. Hey brew fam! I am looking to up my brew kettle from a standard 8 gallon to a 10 gallon for better BIAB functionality. The 8 works great for full boil on a partial mash/steeped grains 5 gallon recipe but when I do a BIAB I am pushing the limits and have been way too close to spillage when getting all the grains in. Here is my question, should I just up to a standard 10 gallon or would it be beneficial to get one with the bells and whistles (ball valve, thermometer, false bottom, and filter thingie that goes in the inside of the valve) if I am just doing BIAB and partials? (And don't worry, I will keep the 8 in play and use it as well... hey, 2 pots are better than one... lol!!)
  9. To quote @Bonsai & Brew......... If you don't brew it who will?? I say go for it!
  10. It's amazing what cold crashing Does! I cold crash every batch.
  11. Last time i did cider, i went with just the fresh cider and the yeast, no sugar added... it turned out great and a respectable ABV.
  12. Make sure the ciders has been UV light treated and no preservatives have been added..... those preservatives can be detrimental to the yeast.....
  13. @doc280 am I understanding you right that you will not be brewing the full batch at once and then splitting the wort between the 3 lbks? How are you looking to protect the Extract and booster in between brewing cycles? How are you measuring out how much to use per brew? If your intent is to split the brewing of one extract and one booster into three different brewing days I would HIGHLY recommend NOT doing that as you raise the risk infection astronomically. Every time you open and expose any of the ingredients to the open air the probability of catching an infection increases. My recommendation is either wait until you have all 3 lbks available at the same time and do a single brew session splitting into the 3 lbks or get a 6.5 or 7 gallon fermenter and going as a single fermentation.
  14. Interesting theory Nick! It's definitely worth some study and experimenting.
  15. I think I have seen @Shrike say he uses 2oz per batch, not sure of time though.... most brew suppliers should have maltodextrin in their inventory.
  16. I think it is dependant on the style of the recipe/extract/hme and it's ingredient makeup, some may have more of the head retention properties than others.
  17. Mr. Beer/coopers/extract kits Are the cause from what i am reading, they lack head retention. There are several things that can be done, the two most popular are steeping some carapils in your water before stiring in the extract or mixing in some maltodextrin with your extract adds to the body and head retention.
  18. @RickBeer would be so proud of you for this comment.......
  19. @Creeps McLane Just throw it all together in one big "all or nothing go big or go home" brew......
  20. you are in for a long day.... my last big brew weekend i did 6 batches total i think... day one was 1 reg (baltic porter straight up) Smitten Bovine (kinda a PM but more a reg) Black Beer'd Porter (PM) and there was a 5 gallon Partial Mash as well (AHS Tis The Saison) day two was 2 5 gallon PMs (which i sadly lost in the shelving crash a week later)
  21. I do the two glass dance....use two glasses as the foam fills up the first, use the second one to pour into, once it's foamfilled, the first should have some room to pour into (at this point if you keep the bottle tilted close to pouring angle but not, you should be good to not have any mess) just go back and fourth till beer is poured.... the option to combine the glasses into one is yours and yours alone.
  22. Was there any sediment in the bottom of the pot? The sediment should be left in the pot when you transfer the wort to your Fermenting vessel. (there are varying opinions on this some say dump it in, some say dont... in my experience it hasnt mattered either way and once you cold crash it will compact to the bottom of the fermenter anyway) also, the Yeast you used looks to be a Lager Yeast, Lagers must be fermented cold. This usually means holding a wort temperature range between 48º F and 55º F depending on the strain (found on your yeast producer’s website) During fermentation. Spend this time to study up on Lagers and how to do them. Ales are a easier (and a bit more forgiving) and are recommended for a beginning brewer until they get a good feel of the process.
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