Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

Cato

Community Members
  • Content Count

    1,495
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    62

Cato last won the day on September 19

Cato had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,672 Excellent

About Cato

  • Rank
    Brewmaster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mid Atlantic
  • Interests
    Golf, photography, woodworking, and now brewing!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,903 profile views
  1. I used Centennial 60 min for my bittering and then Hallertau Blanc 15min. Turned out really well using that combo. I've never used Tettnang, so I know nothing on that hops characteristics.
  2. Since I've got two pales conditioning and one amber/dark , Witch's Flight PM, about to bottle, I checked my grains and I have enough for a 3 gal batch of Das Altbier, so that will be next and then while ordering the yeast for it today I also ordered some Galaxy hops, (never tried Galaxy), and Mangrove Jack's M44 yeast . I'll do an LBK pale ale that I can fit in the fridge with the Alt. There's my plan for the next 3-4 weeks.
  3. Don't overthink it @StretchNM! You boil your 2 gallons for an hour and it cools and you have 1.5 gal left then your boil off rate is .5 gal per hour. Now that you have that approx. rate per hour then next time you want to make a recipe that requires an hour boiling grains, LME, whatever then you know that you need to add an extra .5 gal to your kettle to compensate the loss. You can always boil longer if you over compensated, or if you find that you boiled off too much you can add some water back. I find it handy in Beersmith to check my gravity post boil before I pump into the fermenter. Beersmith will usually say something like my post boil should be 1.046 and so if I find that I'm at 1.033 I might dissolve a .5-.75 lb of LME into the kettle and take another read before pumping into the fermenter. Of course if I'm on the money with BS or slightly above the post boil gravity I have no worry and proceed to pumping into the fermenter. At least use Qbrew to fill in those blanks if you're not using BS yet. Qbrew will be pretty close with you losses to boil off , hop additions, and trub loss.
  4. I guess everyone has a different method to do it. Mine is I do a print out of my recipe from Beersmith and I write my notes on the paper print out like OG and FG and any amounts that I might have changed, LOL, like when I meant to add 8oz of LME and it came out too fast so 1lb. went in. Then I transfer those into my spreadsheet that I keep on the computer and in Google Drive. I like having that hard copy print out and keep 3 hard copy folders, one with current brews, one with recipes that I might want to tackle, and the third is informational and technical stuff that I run across and print out but seldom delve into. That being said I still chuckle when I clean out the old mail stuff from the counter in the kitchen and find stuff scribbled on a junk mail envelope like FG 1.012.
  5. I too use the unscented dish soap and rinse and wash each bottle as I drink it and leave it filled with the soapy water. Every 3 days or so I'll empty the 6-8 bottles on the kitchen counter and rinse them a couple times with hot water and then store them on my bottle tree. I've never used a bottle brush or had any residue remaining. I think my SS brewbuckets with the racking arm produce a bit less trub than my LBK's, but I'll have to check that out to verify.
  6. Yeah, I'm all in as well on Beersmith. I have two different equipment profiles for two different sized kettles and fermenters. It's taken some tweaking to fine tune my boil rate on my induction burner, kettle loss, and trub loss in the fermenter but I'm real close these days to matching my numbers in BS. One of my favs is adjusting my water chemistry to match the type of brew and i always use the same Deer Park spring water as I have its profile and ph stored in BS. I think it's a great program and the scaling feature makes it easy to adjust batch sizes between my kettles and fermenters.
  7. Ordered Pilsen, Maris Otter, Carapils, Nottingham yeast, and 5 or 6 different hops. Falconers Flight for a LBK of Witches Flight with some PM tweaks, and then some Willamete, Fuggles, EKG, and Styrian Celia for my attempt at St. Austells Tribute Pale Ale. For some reason I ordered some Galaxy hops with no recipe in hand but will figure out something. After that I think I'll make a 4-5 gal batch of Altbier just to keep a better stock amount than what I brewed for the German Stein comp. Still pretty hot for the AG brewing in the garage but I'm going to have to just deal with it.
  8. Made it back home from Europe and have a lot to catch up on this coming week, but also need to plan a couple of brewing days in. I need to get a couple of batches going in the pipeline, so thinking one will be a LBK with a MRB PM, likely using a BAA, maybe Witches Flight, and the other will be a 3 gal grain pale ale seeing if I can brew a semblance to that delicious Tribute PA I had on the flight back.
  9. All a matter of preference. I can drink a flat hydrometer sample, but to me the chilled carbonated beer makes it come alive.
  10. Make sure you put them in the fridge for 3 days before opening to drink.
  11. Should be and if not just let it set on the counter a little longer.
  12. Adding LME would change the flavor profile slightly but not terribly. Also, you could add booster. I'd go with either before I added sugar but that's my preference.
  13. I hear a door opening.
  14. Next up will be a APA. I have my grist and water treatments set in Beersmith, but still adjusting my hops schedule. Originally I was just going with Mosaic and Amarillo, but I'm thinking that could turn out too sweet and fruity without some counterpoint, so I'm going to add Simcoe into the hops schedule as well. IBU's will be about 50. SRM 9.5 and ABV 5.5-6%. My batch will be 4.75 gal full volume BIAB. That's about the most I can do in my 7.5 gal kettle without having to deal with top off water calculations. My grist will be Maris Otter, Munich, Vienna, Crystal 40, and Wheat. Hops will be a 60, 30, 10, and flameout additions with no dry hop. Yeast US-05
  15. Congrats! My first two batches were awful, so you're off to a better start!
×
×
  • Create New...