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Cato

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Everything posted by Cato

  1. I wouldn't worry about the carb drops, just get a box of domino sugar dots and add one per 12oz of beer and you'll be on the money with carbing.
  2. Pretty much fleshed out in BS, a Dusseldorf Alt which tends to be a bit more bitter than its Northern Grm cousin. I've done both styles and like them. Judges may or may not like me merging a bit of both styles in this recipe, but I don't care, this is for me, but I'll send it to my next comp and see how it fares. After that I'm going back to my mini brewbucket and an LBK and brew my Witbier in the mini brew bucket and a Red Ale in the LBK. I've got pretty solid recipes for both in BS and will keep the tweaks to a minimum. Those three brews should carry me until after the first of the year and then thinking of trying a Maibock.
  3. I bet you got some sticky dough balls with that! Did you use any rice hulls? That looks like a lot of work.
  4. Haha, I recognize that Wit! Hope it met with your approval. I'm not a big wheat fan but I can drink Erdlinger Wit, and modeled this brew as close as I could get to theirs.
  5. Tomorrow I'll be brewing BIAB with an element inside the kettle, not using the induction burner. Once I hit mash temp I'll turn off the element add the bag, then the grains and dough in. I'll manually stir and add heat as needed, though now that I think about it I could clamp the whirlpool hose to the top of the kettle and create a recirculation. Then I could just set the controller at 25-30% power and should get a decent heat distribution throughout the mash.
  6. Changed the name of my brew tomorrow from Booty Call to "Night Moves", after listening to Bob Seger's tune. I'm pretty much going to brew on the new rig the way I have been, just to check out the whole system. However, I think that to best take advantage of the features offered by the controller, I'm going to need to drill out the kettle lid and install a spray return, RIMS, so that I'll have a more consistent temp gradient throughout. What think you @Creeps McLane?
  7. Well my queue consists of my next PA. However, I have fleshed out the recipe and have a name for it. BOOTY CALL. Heck I even have some label art to go with it. After that well I did buy some NZ hops called Rakau, so another PA at some point will feature those, and a name too. Rakau Rumble. My queue for the moment.
  8. Admins? Do we even have Admins anymore?
  9. Congrats @BDawg62!
  10. Dayum! Just ordered the exotic hops, the cryo hops, and warrior. Good thing I already had plenty of Mosaic and Citra, as the 5 hops probably cost me as much or more than what I would spend total for a batch. However, if I do my part it could be a great PA, and I might learn how to better produce one, so I'm all in. I'm just shooting to net 4 gal to bottle because I wouldn't be able to drink more than that before serious hop fade occured. I'm becoming more used to adding acidulated malt in place of my phosphoric acid, to achieve my target ph.
  11. Northern Brewer. It's been bought back from AB.
  12. Saw on High Gravity's site that my new equipment was in shipping, so I figured I'd better come up with a recipe for its first run. Should work out okay in my schedule as my Galaxy APA should bottle in the next 10 days. I don't normally brew the same style back to back, but as much as I like APA's they are also my weakest style and just haven't felt like I really nailed one yet. So I decided to copy a contest winners recipe off of the AHA site, and chose Big Boi's Booty Sweat. Lol, the name could have more appeal but the recipe looks to be really nice, but has a more involved hop schedule than I usually follow. Heck, that could be a big part of my problem IDK.
  13. Him, I've got several WDA cans. Since it's so dark and hoppy, I'm wondering how a PM with some Pils and golden light LME would work out.
  14. I ferment my beers for 18 days typically at 64-65F temperature controlled. I'll either bottle at 18 days or cold crash for an additional 3 days then bottle. Temp control is very important. I use a mini fridge and ink bird now, but when I started out I used a frozen pint of bottled water in a cooler with an LBK to maintain a 64F temp. With an LBK you'd want to tape a kitchen sponge to the flat end of the keg and put a temp probe below the waterline to get an accurate reading of the wort temp and not ambient temp as the two can differ considerably during the first 3-5 days of krausen, when the yeast is most active.
  15. I think Briess aromatic malt is 20L Munich
  16. Cato

    Hops Basics

    I ran across this 2017 Mr Beer article and while there are many hops not on this list, it's a great reference list that might help tickle your thought process when choosing your hops whether your brewing extract or AG. https://www.mrbeer.com/blog/post/aroma-hops-bittering-hops-dual-purpose-hops
  17. I used Centennial 60 min for my bittering and then Hallertau Blanc 15min. Turned out really well using that combo. I've never used Tettnang, so I know nothing on that hops characteristics.
  18. Since I've got two pales conditioning and one amber/dark , Witch's Flight PM, about to bottle, I checked my grains and I have enough for a 3 gal batch of Das Altbier, so that will be next and then while ordering the yeast for it today I also ordered some Galaxy hops, (never tried Galaxy), and Mangrove Jack's M44 yeast . I'll do an LBK pale ale that I can fit in the fridge with the Alt. There's my plan for the next 3-4 weeks.
  19. Don't overthink it @StretchNM! You boil your 2 gallons for an hour and it cools and you have 1.5 gal left then your boil off rate is .5 gal per hour. Now that you have that approx. rate per hour then next time you want to make a recipe that requires an hour boiling grains, LME, whatever then you know that you need to add an extra .5 gal to your kettle to compensate the loss. You can always boil longer if you over compensated, or if you find that you boiled off too much you can add some water back. I find it handy in Beersmith to check my gravity post boil before I pump into the fermenter. Beersmith will usually say something like my post boil should be 1.046 and so if I find that I'm at 1.033 I might dissolve a .5-.75 lb of LME into the kettle and take another read before pumping into the fermenter. Of course if I'm on the money with BS or slightly above the post boil gravity I have no worry and proceed to pumping into the fermenter. At least use Qbrew to fill in those blanks if you're not using BS yet. Qbrew will be pretty close with you losses to boil off , hop additions, and trub loss.
  20. I guess everyone has a different method to do it. Mine is I do a print out of my recipe from Beersmith and I write my notes on the paper print out like OG and FG and any amounts that I might have changed, LOL, like when I meant to add 8oz of LME and it came out too fast so 1lb. went in. Then I transfer those into my spreadsheet that I keep on the computer and in Google Drive. I like having that hard copy print out and keep 3 hard copy folders, one with current brews, one with recipes that I might want to tackle, and the third is informational and technical stuff that I run across and print out but seldom delve into. That being said I still chuckle when I clean out the old mail stuff from the counter in the kitchen and find stuff scribbled on a junk mail envelope like FG 1.012.
  21. I too use the unscented dish soap and rinse and wash each bottle as I drink it and leave it filled with the soapy water. Every 3 days or so I'll empty the 6-8 bottles on the kitchen counter and rinse them a couple times with hot water and then store them on my bottle tree. I've never used a bottle brush or had any residue remaining. I think my SS brewbuckets with the racking arm produce a bit less trub than my LBK's, but I'll have to check that out to verify.
  22. Yeah, I'm all in as well on Beersmith. I have two different equipment profiles for two different sized kettles and fermenters. It's taken some tweaking to fine tune my boil rate on my induction burner, kettle loss, and trub loss in the fermenter but I'm real close these days to matching my numbers in BS. One of my favs is adjusting my water chemistry to match the type of brew and i always use the same Deer Park spring water as I have its profile and ph stored in BS. I think it's a great program and the scaling feature makes it easy to adjust batch sizes between my kettles and fermenters.
  23. Ordered Pilsen, Maris Otter, Carapils, Nottingham yeast, and 5 or 6 different hops. Falconers Flight for a LBK of Witches Flight with some PM tweaks, and then some Willamete, Fuggles, EKG, and Styrian Celia for my attempt at St. Austells Tribute Pale Ale. For some reason I ordered some Galaxy hops with no recipe in hand but will figure out something. After that I think I'll make a 4-5 gal batch of Altbier just to keep a better stock amount than what I brewed for the German Stein comp. Still pretty hot for the AG brewing in the garage but I'm going to have to just deal with it.
  24. Made it back home from Europe and have a lot to catch up on this coming week, but also need to plan a couple of brewing days in. I need to get a couple of batches going in the pipeline, so thinking one will be a LBK with a MRB PM, likely using a BAA, maybe Witches Flight, and the other will be a 3 gal grain pale ale seeing if I can brew a semblance to that delicious Tribute PA I had on the flight back.
  25. All a matter of preference. I can drink a flat hydrometer sample, but to me the chilled carbonated beer makes it come alive.
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