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Everything posted by Cato

  1. I can't risk it while on the strong stuff. Sigh, will stay the course until they step down my meds.
  2. Nice, good luck and hope you win!
  3. From a homebrewers page that I Googled. The poster was adding this to his leg. Maybe add it at bottling. I do what denny describes. There are 48 teaspoons in a cup and 52 12oz beers in 5 gallons. So I dose 1tsp in 12oz of beer. Adjust up or down, then extrapolate (if you like 1/2 tsp in 12oz, then use 1/2 cup in 5gal). You can adjust the math to dose smaller portions.
  4. I've always used the MB packets for sanitizing my bottles and the starsan for my fermenters and other equipment. Little to no foam in the bottles.
  5. I'd been considering coming this year to meet some of my forum friends but will the knee replacement, it's too iffy.
  6. Lol, whatever works. I go with the tad stronger as it seems to keep better without clouding up between my brew days.
  7. I use 1.5 tsp per gallon. I'll store a gallon out in the garage in an empty gal spring water jug. I'll normally brew twice in a month so that's as long as I'll store it. Since I usually get 6 jugs of spring water I change out the storage jugs since it is an acid based mix. Mainly use it in my spray bottle and sanitizing my ss fermenters. I use the MB sanitizer packets for my LBK and glass bottles.
  8. That would work! Remember your boil will produce a bit of steam/moisture down there so you'll want to think about venting or moving the air around. I'm in my 400sq ft garage with 10ft ceiling. I can crack my garage door open and I have a ceiling mounted 3 speed air cleaner for my wood working that moves the air around for me.
  9. Mine is a 3500w and is plugged into 240v 20 amp circuit. My brew kettles are induction capable. It takes about 20 min to hit strike temp on 4 gal with cold water and then about 15-16 min from there to very vigorous boil. I usually have to turn it down a little once it hits boil. It's great for up to 5 gal batches but beyond that I'd probably look at a 5500 w element in a kettle. I looked hard at that route before buying the induction burner, but for under $200, it was a much less expensive way to brew. I use an immersion chiller for my wort when the weather permits. If it's too cold to use the outside faucets then I pump the wort straight into the fermenter in the mini fridge and chill it down to pitch temp. If it's a 2.5 gal batch I can pitch before bedtime, but if it's a 4 gal batch or more I'll pitch the next morning.
  10. Lol, @swenocha, I had some errands to run today, so picked up a 4 pack of these Belgian Ale glasses.
  11. We mostly have the Weizen, shaker, and mug style. I obviously haven't been particular in my glass standards, though I've made some progress. I rarely drink from a beer bottle, and avoid beer in ice tea glass and Dixie cups. However, I like the looks of your glass in the bottom left middle with the blue logo. That interests me because of the wide bell at the top. I would think you'd get maximum aroma from that design. I typically don't go overboard with adding so much hops that it masks the malt, but love the aroma they bring to the table. Plus, I've been using a few more aromatic malts in my recipes.
  12. The benefit to knowing these would be able to calculate your ABV for one thing. Using brewing software and inputting your boil off rate, amount of trub loss left in kettle, your amount of grains and hops, your desired packaging amount, the capacity of your fermenter and trub loss in fermenter, it can tell you how much strike water you'll need,the preboil amount, the post boil amount, and how much will be left to go in your fermenter and in the case of Beersmith , I believe, how much top off water is needed. I haven't used that feature yet but I've seen it in the program. If you follow those guidelines and input the correct numbers, then it should get you close to your packaging amount and approx. ABV when it's ready to bottle. All that lets you play with some scenarios should you want to make changes to your recipe. Huge deal for recipe making, my fav. It's not a small benefit, it's pretty huge in that it opens up a whole new dimension from what you began with in cans of HME. There are free online calculators that can get you off and running even if you're using HME, DME, or LME as your base for a PM, or if you're going all grain.
  13. I've always gone 18 days and then either bottled then or cold crashed for 2-3 days. In answer to your question, I think that 21 day time limit is a safe advice for those fermenting in an LBK because some don't have a hydrometer to check their readings, and those that do don't want to waste the 4 oz each time they take a reading. Your refractometer only takes a few drops. I haven't used one for beer, only for salinity, so I can't speak about the accuracy of the instrument compared to a hydrometer. I think that those that keg, often keg at 2 weeks if they have a steady reading but they're not risking bottle bombs either.
  14. @Fire Rooster, you can mark a stick at gallon and 1/2 gallon points to help determine the boil off rate. Will most likely be 1/2 gal/hour at a nice rolling boil for that size stockpot but every kettle can be slightly different depending on heat source. Lol, remember there's a reason why kettles for AG are usually double the size of the maximum batch recommended. Example 10 gal kettle for 5 gal batches is a common size. HOT BREAK happens quickly and can overflow an undersized kettle that is not under a watchful eye. Read up on that. That not to say that you can't push that envelope a bit. My biggest kettle is 7.5 gal and I can boil 5 gal without issue as long as I am extremely vigilant as it approaches boil, and I am ready to dial my heat back a little at hot break, then once that protein foam peak passes I can resume my boil. Just saying.
  15. @BDawg62 has got it. I wasn't really concerned about the DP. I'd bought some of both to have on hand, and ended up using the blend in BeerSmith to get the color I was looking for. It wasn't a super critical point as either would have served well for a pale ale. Mostly me just learning how to fine tune color, IBU's, ABV in BeerSmith. Didn't mean to throw you a curveball by my blend.
  16. Probably their 2 row malt. They have a pale malt but its slightly darker than the 2 row. For my AG ZD clone I used a 50/50 mix of their 2 row and pale malt to get my color where I wanted it.
  17. My wife sticks with her Bud Lights with a squirt of lime juice. She has taken a sip of nearly everything I've brewed, she makes a nice comment and hands it back. I think she drank a whole one once when she was out of buds. My feelings are completely intact, as is the pipeline. All is well.
  18. Lol, Rick beat me to it!
  19. My wife too! I got her to switch to Bud Light and she just adds a squirt of lime concentrate to her glass before she pours.
  20. All it takes is that one success and you know its there and its repeatable if you keep good notes and or a log of your recipes and procedures!! Congrats on your brew! Some will always be more successful or in your wheelhouse than others, but the nice thing is to have a few favs that you can keep in the stable for those batches that you thought would be fun to try but you find your hand going elsewhere in the fridge reaching for a beer. Lol, I give them a grade comment type of thing in my last Excel column for each beer. Most are good and a few great, but I have some that were meh, or just okay. Still fun to try different styles but to keep something fav in the rotation.
  21. I like mugs with a handle if those are shaker pints, though my two favs only hold 12oz We also have some tulip shaped and a couple like this that I like a lot.
  22. Yes, I have two, the 3.5 gal and the 7 gal. I bought the mini first last summer and brewed 2.5 to 3 gal batches, and love it. It's size fits in my mini fridge along with an LBK, so that's nice. It produces clearer beer to me, with less trub in the bottles than the LBK. The 7 gal I got a few months later and can use for 4-6 gal batches. Only improvements I made was to install the beveled LBK washer in place of the OEM o ring. Fits perfectly and makes rotating the racking arm a bit easier IMO. Very simple but effective design and widely used. Both sizes have options for heating and chilling system. For a small batch brewer, I think they're ideal.
  23. Um, that's not entirely true in my book. Stainless can get corrosion on it. Just used the Bar Cleaners Friend soft scrub yesterday on my stainless steel sink to get off a few corrosion spots. I posted earlier what SSBrewtech recommends before using your stainless kettle or fermenter. Clean with TSP and then use 1 oz per gallon of Star San to passivate. Up to you. https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/categories/200206485-CLEANING-CARE-STAINLESS
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