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Everything posted by Cato

  1. Lol, I sure hope their beer is good. Can't get it around here, but the recipe I'm using for my clone looks to make a nice pale ale, so I didnt alter it except for a little reduction in IBU's from 67 down to 49. My fermenter is bubbling some nice smells already from the blow off jar.
  2. True enough, but in the winter I'll include a PET with each batch because at 67-68F my beers take a bit longer to fully carb. Squeeze test let's me know when I can sample the trub bottle.
  3. Brewed today and did my first water additions. I have to get a finer reading scale as mine could only get me close on less than a gram measurements. BS had a target of 5.2 I think and I read 5.35 with the meter. Fairly close I guess but my scale was not sensitive enough. Baby steps, but I'll get it dialed in. Meter works great,lol, operator work in progress.
  4. Likely so. Most LHBS would carry it. I use it more on my stainless fermenters, and favor the MB sanitizer for my LBK's, but anytime I'm going to be using both I'll go with the Starsan. Works great on my kettles too!
  5. I do it over a pail lined with a garbage bag, and then dump the trub and paper towels from clean up in it. When it's all bundled up and in the trash, it's like it never even happened. Of course, SWMBO knows I've brewed, bottled, whatever, and will even taste a sample and feign interest but I favor keeping it under the radar.
  6. Lol, yes I think I knew that but thought you might like the video from another brewers set up. Probably old hat to you but I'm a bit of a machinery junkie, having spent my working career in shipyard, newspaper production, and commercial printing. Now that I brew I love looking a how breweries are set up.
  7. 3 weeks is safest I'm sure but I've always gone 18 days with 3 day cold crash. When I can't cold crash because of another fermenter in the mini fridge I'll sometimes let the first one go 21 and then bottle, but haven't noticed any difference in hydrometer between 18 and 21 days.
  8. We have a small local brewery that has one. I'm going to have to stop by there, soon though I don't know if they'll let you see it or not. @Creeps McLane and @kedognwould like it I think since they do sours.
  9. Time for you to get a cool ship! You could do great things with one, and it would be awesome.
  10. I use sugar dots. 1 dot= 1/2 tsp. Mr Beer direction tend to over carb. I use 1 sugar dot per 12oz glass bottle or 2 sugar dots when using the 740ml PET bottles. For a 16.9 oz , 500ml bottle I use 1 sugar dot and then add a 1/4 teaspoon of sugar. Hope that helps.
  11. Ah, 8 oz Citra and 10 lb of 2-row hit the front porch this morning, which is perfect, because it'll be nasty stormy nor'Easter starting Sat night and all day Sunday will be windy and rainy. Brew day! Try my hand at a Zombie Dust Clone. I'll do a full volume boil and plan on netting about 4.5gal Be my first Beersmith brew and water adjustments, plus using ph meter to chart how I did. I'm excited! Running short on time to get a nice batch bottled before knee surgery mid February. Hate the thought of downtime and ewww surgery, but limping around like I've been on an unstable knee isn't getting it.
  12. Lol, it may be overkill but I spray starman on both sides of the hops packet at the top where I cut it.
  13. While dry hopping can be intimidating at first, as long as you are careful, the reward is well worth it IMO. I usually do it the last 5-8 days before cold crashing or bottling. I'm not a fan of excessive IBU's in my beers, but I am a fan of the aroma and flavor the hops impart. I'll use my brewing software to calculate the amount of bittering during the boil and make those additions and then depending on the style , say it's a pale ale, I'll dry hop to really enhance the flavor and aroma without adding IBU's. I just sanitize my hop sack, take some star san and spray around the fermenter cap, open and lightly drop it in. I've not had nor heard anyone get an infection issue by dry hopping this way. Risk worth the reward? Yes, big reward.
  14. Zombie Lust. I've not had the 3 Floyd's Zombie Dust, and Total Wine doesn't have it but looking at clone grist and hops, it fits a brew I can drink. I used a gift card to order some extra 2 row and 8 oz of Citra, everything else I have on hand. I noticed some people either use S-04 or S-05 for their dry yeast. I'm thinking S-05 would make for a crisper finish, which might pair well with all that load of Citra.
  15. Dawg, I'm really looking forward to that! Input my water report from Deer Park and have a recipe and supplies ready to go for next week. Have one fermenter left to clear out of the mini fridge and bottle, then I'm good to go.
  16. Jeez I just saw that I paid $8 for these and they're worthless.
  17. I naively thought they might be in the ballpark, @Creeps McLane, but now I know they're worthless. On a brighter note, I'm really liking how BS v.3 works and looking forward to my next brew day, and curious to see how my numbers perform as well as water adjustments. Having so much fun with this!
  18. Piggybacking here on @Bonsai & Brew's thread as it seems as good a place to post on ph and water adjustments. Calibrated my ph meter and got used to the menu buttons etc. Its pretty slick and fairly fast for a pen, to stabilize and lock in a reading. I appreciate that they include a double sided laminated instruction and programming guide, for reference and waterproofed. Anyway, I wanted to measure my Deer Park Spring Water and then compare that to my ph strips. I ran the test last night and again today with same results. Meter read 6.82 ph and the test strip color comparison didn't quite make it to 5.0. What a bust! I thought surely that it would indicate more than that, and maybe be off by a few tenths or half a point! I wondered if they would register anything at all so I added a pinch of bicarbonate and stirred it in. That produced a purple off the chart colorl Maybe I have a bad batch of strips, but they should have shown a dramatic color change since their range is 4.6-6.2. Lol, I'll practice with it again and check out whether my 5.2 stabilizer is as reliable as my ph test strips! Oops, forgot to include my pics.
  19. The inkbird is a temp controller that cuts the fridge on and off to maintain your setting. So you set it for say 65F and it will cool down to that temp and then shut the fridge off, or if it gets too cold it will kick the heater on. I don't use the heat side of it in the summer but it has a plug for the fridge, cool side, and a plug for a heat side, which I use when it gets to fall and winter weather. It's programmable for both cooling and heating. Hard to beat for $40. The heater I use is a thin mylar sheet with heat strips embedded in it. I wrap it around my stainless fermenters, or for the LBK's, I just position it loosely by one and it'll keep the interior of the fridge close to the set temp. Works well. https://www.amazon.com/Weekend-Brewer-COMINHKPR125665-Fermentation-Heater/dp/B01J1WZNM2/ref=asc_df_B01J1WZNM2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198078807540&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4557556369717772742&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008537&hvtargid=pla-349654863042&psc=1
  20. You can heat and cool with the inkbird. I use a small 4.4 cu ft fridge in my garage and have a $25 fermentation heater that will kick on when needed and keep two fermenters within a degree of where I set it. Its a great little set up and will let you do ales or lagers whatever time of year.
  21. Yeah, likely. Usually I have to adjust it at least once while bottling. Lot less trouble using it on my vertical fermenters since there's a short piece of hose between the spigot hose barb and the wand.
  22. Explains why when I first joined, he had 9 cases to go through before he could brew anymore beer!
  23. Try the bottling wand using some tap water in your LBK but back it off a hair from being shoved too far up into the spigot. Shoved too firmly all the way right against the ball valve will restrict the flow. A slight twist will loosen it a hair and the liquid will flow freely. Congrats to your surviving some difficulties in your first batch!
  24. Ph meter coming today! Lol, when I left the fishery R&D facility in 2012, I didn't think I'd ever have to monitor water quality again! Still, here I am again, but once again it becomes necessary. What can be measured, can be controlled. Pretty much a mantra for a production manager. It always costs more to buy machinery, electronics, whatever that can be adjusted and fine tuned. The payoff is well worth it.
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