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  1. I used S-04 ale yeast and have been fermenting at 64 degrees; today is day 14. So, I am almost following your suggestion perfectly. I can bring it up to 68 right now and then cold crash tomorrow for 3 days and then bottle. If I am reading what you wrote correctly, if the beer ferments in 7 days, then taking gravity readings on day 14 and 16 seems pointless (and a waste of some beer) because it will almost certainly be redundant in showing that fermentation is complete. Do I have this correct? thank you
  2. I think I am going to "split the difference" between 1 and 3 weeks. I will take a gravity reading after 2 weeks and then again 2 days later.
  3. I asked the same question on the Coopers' message board and got the following response: "Just do what you normally do. An ale shouldn't take any longer than 7 days to reach FG. Add a few days for yeast cleanup and you can have it bottled after 11-12 days, 2-3 weeks to carbonate as normal." So, I am very confused now as to what to do.....
  4. thank you - this certainly simplifies things (although makes me wait an extra week)!
  5. I have noticed that the Mr. Beer recipes say to ferment the beer for 3 weeks for bottling. But the Coopers recipes say to use a hydrometer to do gravity tests after 7-10 days and, if stable over 2 days, then to bottle. Is this simply a case of Mr. Beer trying to make things simpler and not bother with using a hydrometer? Or is there really a difference in the products?
  6. I just poured in the raspberry after a week of fermentation. I did NOT stir or mix the raspberry; I just opened the lid, poured it in and put the lid back on. Was this the right way to do it? or should I have stirred it a bit? It is probably too late now to do anything anyway, so I hope I did it right....
  7. Thanks for the temperature suggestion. The recipe that I posted above says to add both cans in the beginning, but Mr. Beer has since modified it to be one at the beginning and the other a week later. Thoughts?
  8. Hi all I am going to make this recipe tomorrow - https://www.mrbeer.com/rapturous-raspberry-recipe It seems pretty straightforward, however, I have a question about the fermenting temperature. The recipe calls for Safale S-04 yeast and a temperature of between 59 and 68 degrees. This is a pretty big range. Since I have a temperature controller on my fermenting fridge, I am able to keep a consistent temperature. Can anybody provide any advice on where I should try to keep the temperature? thanks in advance!
  9. I am reviving this thread as I am about to make the Coopers recipe - Toasted Island Coconut Porter https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/island-toasted-coconut-porter.html Before I get started, I have some questions as I am a new brewer and this will be my first time trying anything other than the standard cans: 1) The grains I got from Coopers are uncracked. The recipe says to use a rolling pin, but that doesn't seem like it will ensure that I get all of the grains. Alternatively, my local home brew store (who would not crack the grains for me) said that I could use a blender. But that seemed like it would cause the opposite problem and would disintegrate the grains. 2) I understand that I do not have to sanitize muselin bags if they are going to be steeped because the boiled water will sanitize them anyway. But what about the bag that will have the coconut and will go directly into the wort after fermentation has started? This one has to be sanitized, right? What is the best way to sanitize the bag, but then handle it to put the toasted coconut inside? 3) When I toast the coconut, do I sanitize the baking sheet that will go into the oven? 4) The recipe says to bottle for at least 4 weeks. I have sen several other porter recipes that call for 3-4 months in the bottle before tasting. This is a wide range, so I don't know what is accurate.
  10. thanks Rick One last question - do I need to use the heating side of the inkbird? Can I just plug in the fridge into the "cool" side and nothing into the "heat" side? If I do that, should I set the heat temperature to the same as the cooling temperature?
  11. I saw that my inkbird has the delay option, but I wasn't sure what it is for. What is the reason for setting the delay of 5 minutes before the compressor kicks on?
  12. I have been looking at recipes and they all have a range for the temperature to ferment the wort. However, I have read both a) that this is the ideal temperature of the wort and b) that this is the ideal temperature of the ambient air around it. Since I am going to use an inkbird temperature controller for the first time, knowing where to place the probe and which temperature to set is kind of important. Can anybody help steer me towards how to interpret the temperature in the recipes?
  13. When stores in Australia put them on sale, with today's exchange rate, they work out to less than $2 per bag. While I agree that is more expensive than using table sugar, the convenience makes it worth the slightly elevated cost. Plus, when free shipping is offered from Coopers, I can always top off my order with enough bags of carb drops to get to the minimum amount to qualify for the free shipping.
  14. do the carb drops ever go bad? If not, I may stock up when they are on sale (this happens a lot in Australia)
  15. I know it is the right time of year for pumpkin beer with the holidays being around us. But I am an American living in Australia, so it is getting to be summer now and it doesn't feel right making a heavier beer. So, I am going to hold off for a few more months when this beer would be ready for the Australian winter. That said, I think I am going to do a combination of the 2 recipes. I am going to go with the canned pumpkin from the MRB recipe, rather than using a squash (that is what they call "pumpkin" in Australia), but use the blend of spices from the Coopers recipe, rather than the pumpkin pie spice that MRB calls for. I am assuming that the differences in the ingredients are because canned pumpkin and pumpkin pie spice are not as readily available in Australia as they are in America.
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