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StretchNM

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Everything posted by StretchNM

  1. Yes, I think you're right, @Jdub. @RickBeer 's advice is sound, indeed.
  2. I hear you @RickBeer, but is 2 pounds of 2-row and 3 oz of Crystal 40 not about right for a 1-gallon batch, and especially if I've had it in mind to re-try a similar but weaker recipe for some time? I mean for a stumbling around, slobbering, on-the-spot decision, it's probably a pretty good 1-gal recipe. Right? I sometimes will write or speak in a somewhat self-deprecating manner 50% because it's sort of true, 50% because it's kind of fun, and the remaining 50% because it can be humorous. And throw in the last 23% to masochism. Awhile back I already had plans to, at some point in the future, recreate my only all-grain batch, and I knew I wanted to increase the amount of grain. But I procrastinated ordering it or buying it until one day in a shop, where I tripped and fell over a salesperson (I should've tied my shoes before I went in). Anyway, I began telling him of this lofty dream of recreating a recipe when he tells me my 2 pounds of 2-row (as opposed to the original 1.5 pounds) is actually a relatively common, basic recipe for pale ale. I wanted it darker, so he suggested adding 4 ounces of Crystal 30, which they were out of, so we substituted 3 oz of Crystal 40. And just like that, I realized my life-long dream of re-creating an original recipe yet, creating one at the same time! A Master Brewer I became, at that very moment. Still though, as you infer, I must learn to sit down, think more, become more studious, plan my actions, and then take action on my plans.
  3. I agree with you both, @Jdub and @Creeps McLane. Sometimes I don't think straight, so when I bought the grain at the supply store, well, that was one of those times. I was just browsing and marveling and slobbering around at that place that it was a spur of the moment idea. I was thinking that first 1-gallon batch tasted so good ("thin" though it was) 'what if I duplicated it but added this much grain and that much of that'. I should have got maybe 4 pounds of 2-Row with 6oz of Crystal 40 or something, and just tried that for 2 full gallons. I really want to get a 7 gallon bucket at ritebrew and brew some larger batches, I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. (Oh but I did order and receive a new LBK a while back, so now I could do 4 gallons. It's standing by like a good soldier, all shined up and ready when I want it)
  4. No Nick, the Kit didn't give any data. And.... My OG reading was 022 and I forgot to take FG reading before pitching my yeast. Even without the FG, I knew it would be low ABV% because of the initial reading. Yes "thin" is a very good descriptor.
  5. To better understand "boil-off rate", please tell me if I have this right: - Boil 2 gallons for one hour - Let cool and measure remainder - Subtract remainder from 2 (gallons) (to get the loss) - Divide the loss by 2 (to bring a 2-gal measurement to 1-gal) - That is the boil-off rate Correct?
  6. CORRECTION! : I started with 32 cups (2 gallons). After the boil I was left with 18 cups, for a loss of 14 cups. So for 1 gallon I will lose 7 cups, or about .4 of a gallon per hour. Now the figures in BIAB Calculator are almost exactly what @Creeps McLane provided. Almost to the very numbers.
  7. Thanks, Jdub. I will check into this beersmith and compare the schekel cost against value. Moments ago, I measured my boil-off rate = .6 gal per hour. Does that sound right? So, according to BIAB Calculator, for my 1-gallon batch I will need 1.95 gallons to start and will have 1.25 gallons for the fermenter. This is essentially the same as what @Creeps McLane provided (except that this program says I need a little more water to start).
  8. Thanks @RickBeer. I think you pointed me to that program during my first all-grain brew. I used it and then couldn't remember what it was to use on this batch. I'll try it now to see how it compares to Creeps' results. ON EDIT: Ok I'm in the program. I have to go boil 2 gallons and see what my boil-off rate is. I did that before and now don't remember. I'm a piss-poor student
  9. It's not a stupid question, @Creeps McLane. I knew about needing the grains milled, but when I bought the grains I was just ready to pay and leave. Luckily, the guy said "Want me to mill these for you?". "But... of course!" (A save, but not a "veteran" save") I will steep the grains for 1 hour, then expect to have about 1.6 gals after removing them. Boil hops for 1 hour and I will have about 1.3 gallons for fermenting. Use the LBK so there's enough room for wort and fermentation. Then, I can just leave it in the LBK until bottling time(?) Thank you again. Does that program you use cost or is it free?
  10. Thank you @Creeps McLane. As you might have guessed I have some questions. I want to understand: Do I start with 1.94 gallons, then after steeping the grains (1 hour?) I'll have 1.6 gallons? Then after I boil the hops (how long?) I'll have 1.3 gallons? It seems like I will lose more than .3 gallons boiling for one hour. The last time I made the (original recipe) Kit, it called for total 1/2 oz hops, 3/4 boiled for 60 minutes and remaining 1/4 at flameout. Should I do the same thing again? Also, it looks like the mash going into fermenter is 1.3 gallon, so it seems I can't use the 1-gallon jug, but I need to use my LBK so I have enough room(?).
  11. A while back I brewed a little 1-gallon all-grain Kit. It was weak and impotent (which really taxed my ego). It consisted of 1-1/2 lb of 2-row and 1/2 ounce of Kent Goldings hops. The finished product tasted just fine, but it was weaker than near beer. Even though I had some help from some long-gone brewing program, I think I messed up with the amount of water ( I didn;t follow the directions exactly). So now I want to improve on it, and I would like someone to run my numbers through one of those brewing programs to see bitterness, ABV, color, amount of strike water, sparge water, hops boil time, etc. If someone is willing, here are the particulars: - 2 pounds of 2 Row - 3 oz of Crystal 40 - 1/2 oz (?) Kent Goldings Hops (I have a full ounce, if needed) - Safale US04 Thank you
  12. I know from reading the posts that some of you all have sent beer to, or received beer from, other home brewers. I want to send a couple of 12oz bottles to a friend of mine in Alabama. How do I do it? I'd like to know how it's packed and how it's sent, and anything else that will help me. Thanks
  13. All I have is the grain I bought, so I wonder if I could do a 1 gallon batch in the LBK, as opposed to doing it in the 1 gallon jug (?) I plugged my data into a trial version of Qbrew, but now I can't find it. It's been a couple of weeks, but I think I remember the program indicated a 30 minute boil of 1/4oz hops (plus 1/4 at flameout) to keep my bitterness down in the 30's or low 40's. Now I can't remember how much strike water, etc.
  14. A while back I brewed a one galling all grain kit. Turned very nice but it was soul-less. ABV couldn't have been more than 3.5 or so. Now or I want to replicate it and add to it. I got 2lbs of 2-row and 3oz of Crystal 40. Also bought an ounce of Kent Goldings though I'll only use 1/2oz i plan to boil 1/4oz hops for 30 min and the other 1/4 oz at flameout. I'll use US04 yeast. What do do you think?
  15. Syncman, it's your thread of course, but if you or others are willing, I'd sure like to hear the harvesting and saving process in a nutshell.
  16. If you watch youtube videos of the experienced brewers, most of them ferment between 10 and 14 days. I suspect that Mr Beer is just keeping up with the times rather than having a catch-all "3 week" fermentation period. I suppose they take their original and final gravity readings and they pretty well know when it's done. If in doubt, the advice I always got was to take a gravity reading for two days and if there is no change, the yeast is done.
  17. Yes they have re-written all (they say all) of their instructions. I believe there are still some that ferment for 3 weeks. Unknown if that's by design or if they just haven't gotten to those yet.
  18. We gotta change the system! Put it to the man! "Takin' it to the streets!" (MM of course) Why can't someone here @RickBeer, et al, see if the Administrator will appoint another Admin and/or Moderators?
  19. Well, ok. I don't have those yeasts, but I do have US04 and -05. What IF I used that instead? There's just something bugging me about brewing an Oktoberfest lager with ale yeast. Maybe it's ok, I don't know. Is it? And..... what do you think about heaving in that large bag of DME?
  20. I will soon be brewing MRB's Deluxe Oktoberfest - Oktoberfest Lager HME, Smooth LME, and MRB Ale Yeast with fermentation recommended at 70F - 72F. With it being a Lager, isn't it more desirable to ferment at 65F or lower? Wouldn't I be better using a yeast like US05 or US04? That's my main question, but I'm also considering lifting and heaving in an 8oz bag of Smooth DME on this one too. Maybe not. I'm open to suggestions and criticisms. But the yeast is eating at me, eh....bugging me. Thank you
  21. I guess I haven't used it before. I installed it and opened it. Everything is blank. I can't import anything. I do have another folder called qbrew database, but I can't access it from the program.
  22. I thought I had already downloaded Qbrew and used it for a small all-grain batch, but can't find it now on my computer. OK. Found it. Gracias (That's "thanks" in Farsi [a southeastern Zimbabwe language])
  23. Has anyone tried just taking a short can and using it one gallon of water? Would that be too malty and strong?
  24. I see now what I couldn't then - the can has the grain and hops, the yeast is included, you add water, and the 4 equal beer. Sometimes I can miss the most obvious things. I just always thought you had to have the can and the yeast, and then some booster, or LME, or something else. Now I see. (Wake up boy! Lest these fellows see that you are indeed a dumb ash!) I will never ask another dumb question again! (Unless I need the answer to one)
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