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StretchNM

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Everything posted by StretchNM

  1. If you watch youtube videos of the experienced brewers, most of them ferment between 10 and 14 days. I suspect that Mr Beer is just keeping up with the times rather than having a catch-all "3 week" fermentation period. I suppose they take their original and final gravity readings and they pretty well know when it's done. If in doubt, the advice I always got was to take a gravity reading for two days and if there is no change, the yeast is done.
  2. Yes they have re-written all (they say all) of their instructions. I believe there are still some that ferment for 3 weeks. Unknown if that's by design or if they just haven't gotten to those yet.
  3. We gotta change the system! Put it to the man! "Takin' it to the streets!" (MM of course) Why can't someone here @RickBeer, et al, see if the Administrator will appoint another Admin and/or Moderators?
  4. Well, ok. I don't have those yeasts, but I do have US04 and -05. What IF I used that instead? There's just something bugging me about brewing an Oktoberfest lager with ale yeast. Maybe it's ok, I don't know. Is it? And..... what do you think about heaving in that large bag of DME?
  5. I will soon be brewing MRB's Deluxe Oktoberfest - Oktoberfest Lager HME, Smooth LME, and MRB Ale Yeast with fermentation recommended at 70F - 72F. With it being a Lager, isn't it more desirable to ferment at 65F or lower? Wouldn't I be better using a yeast like US05 or US04? That's my main question, but I'm also considering lifting and heaving in an 8oz bag of Smooth DME on this one too. Maybe not. I'm open to suggestions and criticisms. But the yeast is eating at me, eh....bugging me. Thank you
  6. I guess I haven't used it before. I installed it and opened it. Everything is blank. I can't import anything. I do have another folder called qbrew database, but I can't access it from the program.
  7. I thought I had already downloaded Qbrew and used it for a small all-grain batch, but can't find it now on my computer. OK. Found it. Gracias (That's "thanks" in Farsi [a southeastern Zimbabwe language])
  8. Has anyone tried just taking a short can and using it one gallon of water? Would that be too malty and strong?
  9. I see now what I couldn't then - the can has the grain and hops, the yeast is included, you add water, and the 4 equal beer. Sometimes I can miss the most obvious things. I just always thought you had to have the can and the yeast, and then some booster, or LME, or something else. Now I see. (Wake up boy! Lest these fellows see that you are indeed a dumb ash!) I will never ask another dumb question again! (Unless I need the answer to one)
  10. Well, I was looking at the standard (shorter) cans and their ABV is about 3.5 or usually less than 4%. So then that's why if you get a craft refill recipe kit there's always booster or more LME or maybe even hops. It would be beer anyway, just a lower alcohol, less-bodied beer. (?) All of the taller cans have an ABV of 5% or more.
  11. Maybe this'll be too dumb of a question for this group. I mean, I think I know the answer. Could you just boil some water, toss in a can of HME, and pitch the yeast when the keg is topped off? For example, the can of Bewitched HME is rated at about 5.5%, so what would happen if you didn't add booster, or LME, or DME? Thank you
  12. I really didn't mean to cheat with Palmer's online version, in fact, it was on my list to buy. But I think I was researching something and clicked on a link that took me there. I had no idea it was so outdated. Well, I used a whole packet of US05. Maybe I'll have too much yeast, but the brewing is done. Now, if the yeast don't want to do their job, I can't stop them (-YB). I took copious notes of this detailed and highly complex recipe so I will know in a month or two if it worked. Of course, either way it turns out in the end, I may not know why. I broke the cardinal rule of reloading - make one and only one change at a time.
  13. @Nickfixit No Nick. Sorry. I was theorizing when I said 2 LME. AND...... it may have come with LME Golden and I misspoke ( I love that term 😎) No, I brewed it with one can Bewitched, one (Golden?) LME, 8 oz of Smooth DME, and US05 yeast.
  14. I forgot to take my original gravity reading!!!!!
  15. Thank you, men, for all the advice. After my last two posts this morning, I went in and brewed the batch. It's in the keg and beyond all help now. Sugar next time, maybe. I mixed in 8oz of DME Smooth before my 4 cups of water was boiling (I actually added a little more water - 5 or 6 cups total). Then, at the boil I removed from heat and stirred in my HME Bewitched and LME Smooth. Sure did smell good at that point. Playing with the top-off water, I brought the temp to 70F and pitched the Safale US05 yeast. It's fermenting now at about 63F +or- with frozen water bottles in the cooler. Done. Ya se acabò.
  16. This just hit me. My Safale yeast is still in the fridge as I type this. If I start brewing in the next few minutes, that means I'll need to pitch yeast in about an hour. Is that enough time for the yeast to warm to room temperature? Thanks
  17. OK I'm fixing to start brewing here in a few minutes. So I'm glad I got a notification you replied, @D Kristof. After last night's opinions, I decided. The sugar is out - I hear you all clearly, but I just have so many doubts that I don't want to use it. Maybe on a different batch later. I made notes to use 1 bag (8oz) of DME Smooth and use Safale US05 (59F to 71F) instead of MRB yeast. The yeast change is so I can ferment at 65F or so, and not risk the high temperatures recommended for MRB yeast. Plus, if you buy MRB yeast on its own, it is half the cost of the other yeasts, making me doubt its quality. 31+ years working for the guvment has left me the ultimate skeptic, so....when in doubt.... It's still not too late for me to replace the DME with a full pack of LME Smooth. Of course it already comes with LME Smooth, so another one would make 2 LMEs (I'm a mathematician). Does it really matter - LME or DME?
  18. The HME bag is about 8oz. I could add 1/2 or maybe a whole bag, so I could keep the malty body. Keeping the beer at 7.4% doesn't really matter to me. If it was close to the expected ABV that would be good. If it was only 6% or so, that'd be fine too. @Creeps McLane I hear you. So would you forego adding more extract and go ahead with one of the sugars? i know your advice to experiment and see what happens is sound, but I still want to hear from you guys anyway. In the end, I'll still be the one making the tough decisions in my micro-brewery. Lord knows I can't count on my help if I'm not there cracking the whip.
  19. Yes. That's almost exactly what he said, now that I see it written again. But it seemed his concern was to not add any type of sugar. OK, then if I brew that Voodoo, what should I use to replace the sugar? I have some DME (Pale and Smooth) and I also have other LMEs (Golden and Smooth) that are for recipes but I could use one and replace it later. 2-row and Carapils grains are now on-hand, too. (The current recipe for Voodoo is one can of Bewitched HME, one Golden LME, and that brown sugar). I don't think I want to use honey (but maybe I would if the argument was strong enough) because it seems it would change the recipe too much. But FYI I do have some pure, wild-ash local honey. I kindly want to replace that sugar somehow with something relatively close to it. I'm stuck.
  20. I was reading an online version of John Palmers brewing book. He wrote NOT to follow a Malt Extract maker's instructions to add sugar. I can't remember the reason and can't find the passage, but I can find a passage where he repeats not to do so even if instructed. Maybe it has to do with the yeast's reaction to processed sugar while it's trying to work on the natural sugars in the wort. Well, I want to brew the MRB Voodoo beer tomorrow morning. It calls for the addition of 1-cup of brown sugar. A couple members have brewed it and said the brown sugar gave the beer a licorice taste. I don't like licorice so..... I thought I might just put a cup of cane sugar in instead. But, what about John Palmer's warning? Thank you
  21. Well I vacuum sealed the grains (zip lock bags and some sucking) (< ----Ok, that didn't really come out like I intended it to ) and stuffed both of those in a 1/2 gal canning jar, then put that in the fridge. Maybe I'll take it back out and put the jar in my fermenting cooler for the time being. Maybe not. But the hops are in the freezer and the yeast is in the fridge. @efdbrian thanks for the Briess link. It's open in another window and I'm fixing to read it.
  22. OK then, freeze the hop pellets, refrigerate the yeast and grains. Is it ok to put the grains in sealed canning jars instead of vacuum sealing? And what about the DME? Ok in a cool place? Or....
  23. I know you all have answered these to infinity, but I will try to male this brief. I received a nice box from MRB yesterday with 3 cans of HME, 4 packs of DME, 3 LMEs, and some hops and yeast. This adds to my inventory of 2 cans of HME and 2 LMEs. So now I have a bunch of cans and packets and bags. I don't know how to keep all this stuff. I have been keeping 2 HME and 2 LME under my office desk for the past couple of three months. That's dark and relatively cool. But now with more LMEs and hops and yeasts.... 1. Should I refrigerate the yeasts? They are 2 Safale US05, 1 Safale US04, and 1 Lallemand Belle Saison (Danstar). The Saison has an expiration date that is clearly marked and I think I understand the expirations of the Safales. But will it hurt if I store them dry with the HME? I may not finish brewing all of these until the end of the year. 2. Should I refrigerate the LMEs or are they ok in a cool, dark place? 3. What about the hop pellets? I have one Sterling, a couple of packets of Cascade, and one pack of German Mandarina. Also they are marked like this: 31518, and 24318. Is that expiration or ....... when they were made? (I think I read somewhere the first three digits are the day of year) Should I refrigerate these? 4. OK now the HMEs. I bought 3 packs - 2 Smooths and a Pale. I am assuming these belong in a cool, dark place and NOT in the fridge. Right? Ok that's it. Thank you Wait. I also went to my homebrew store and bought 8oz each of 2-row and Carapils. The crushed them and gave them to me in individual brown paper bags. I'm also assuming these belong in a cool, dry place(?) Thanks
  24. @RickBeer, thank you for the links. Both articles were helpful, but "101" was exactly what I was looking for.
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