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  1. Okay, I haven't brewed for a very long time, like eight years, and am wanting to get back into it. I bought two Beer Mix Refill "3 Mix Variety Packs" a long time ago. They say "Best Before July and August 2009". The storage conditions in those intervening years were not the best, and the cans went through some pretty hot cycles in the garage down here in Southern California. The cans are all intact. However, they're all very slightly convex on both ends. I forgot if that was normal. A couple cans are downright bulging with the ability to press one of the ends in. In addition, the booster packs are rock solid, deformed blocks. So, is there a chance of botulism in any of these. I am a cheap sucker, and am willing to try stuff as long as it won't kill me. I did buy fresh yeast. Let me know your thoughts.
  2. Hello Mr.Beer world this is my first post. I am on the wagon of people who got Mr.Beer's LBK for christmas (at a freaking amazing price) I have always been interested in brewing and I understood that most use HMA syrup as a base to their beers. Well jumping to my first question (assuming all my terminolgy has been correct) do I even need to use HME or can I use a UME only? Basically, I am asking if you HAVE to use hops in beer? Sorry, ancestors but it seems that HAVING to use hops really kills the ability to experiment. So that was question 1, now question 2. I understand LBK doesn't have an airlock but does that mean I can NOT make wine's or honey mead using my LBK? 3. What is a booster? I know it adds alcohol but what is it? Its not sugar. 4. When calculating malt to adjunct do you inculde boosters and if so is it a simple 2/3 ratio? 2 cups/ounces/pounds/tons of malt per 1 cups/ounces/pounds/tons of adjunct or is it more complicated than that? 5. last but most important, can I add bacon falvor to my beer? Sorry for asking questions that have probably been answered 1 million and 3/4 times.
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