Simple Guideline

[yankeedag 24]

Beer, the fermenting frontier.
These are the voyages of Mr. Beer Brewers.
Its 2 gallon mission:
to explore strange new brews,
to seek out new flavors and new combinations,
to boldly go where many have gone before.

Welcome to the BeerBorg Information Center.
You will be Assimilated.
Resistance is quite Futile: We have Beer.

And Now a few words from THE NONG.

Some simple guidelines:

Sanitize everything you are going to use. The last thing you want is a “goobie” attack on your beer.

Prep your work area and preset all items. The last thing you want to happen is to be in the middle of an "operation" and get distracted and forget to add something.

As this has been discovered by new groups of "newbz", I decided to add this bit of information.
Measure the volume content for your LBK (little brown keg). The markings aren't as accruate as you may think. It's simple to do. Just start adding known quantitys of water, and mark it on the outside with a sharpie. That way, you know how mucy liquid is actually in the Keg.

Pre-measure your "goodies" and set them up in order of use.


VERIFY your measurements!!

and make sure you're using the correct end of this thing...

Big Difference between 1 tsp and 1 TBSP
If your water doesn’t taste good, get some Spring water from Wally World or somewhere else.

It will take longer than 2 weeks to make beer.

Cooling down the Wort
When you've brewed up your wort (read: emptied the warm cans of HME/UME...or Booster into the hot water)and you are getting ready to add it all to the LBK (Little Brown Keg) you can set the pot the wort is in into a sink with Ice or Cold water. This will cool it down before adding it to the Keg.
The normal instructions say that you need to fill the LBK up to the 4 line with water. If you do that, make sure it's cold water. The colder the better. Because if you're going to add "HOT WORT" to the keg, you don't want to warp it out. Then you're to fill to the 8 line to top it off. Again, cold water. If using refrigerated water, you really shouldn't have a problem. If you're using cold tap water, you should cool down that wort. And, unless you really like to tinker, there really isn't a need for a wort chiller for a MB sized wort. But then, it IS a Boy Toy.

I've found that when adding the wort to the LBK, I have better control if I pour towards me. That way, I can determine "flow rate" and Target.

14~21 days in the keg at 66*F is good.[ If you get the temperature too low, the yeast will go to sleep. If the temperature is too high, it will die. So it helps to research the temperature range of your yeast.]
This will allow the yeast to convert the sugars to Alcohol and the Co2 will protect your beer from oxygen.

(note: It is wise to purchase a Hydrometer. They are simple to use. They take 99.9% of the guess work out of "Is it done yet?" In short, as pointed out by one of our BOM Borg members, The Hydrometer is like your gas gauge. It lets you know when it's full (read unfermented sugars) and when it's Empty (The sugars have been converted).
Two things here: Buy 2 hydrometers, if kept alone, they tend to commit suicide. AND...if your taking readings, you CAN sanitize the meter and tube, and then return the sample to the keg. Me, I like to drink the sample and see how it is going. But to each, their own.

(1) not ALL beers will react the same in the keg

(2) not ALL beers will have a lot of Krausen (foam).

(3) not All beers will show activity.

(4) some beers will blow the lid off your fermenter.

a. Some will wait until you think it's safe, then spew.

(5) beers are like kids…you can make them with the same ingredients and still wind up with a different personality.

If you see a build up of “trub” (gunk) on the bottom of the fermenter, you ARE making beer.

This is trub in a bottle. You'll see the same stuff at the bottom of your Keg.
If you want to clear the beer up a little before you bottle:

cold crash. That would be to place the fermenter into the fridge for a few days. This helps drop yeast and other objects out of suspension , thus clearing up the beer. Remember, bottle while the wort is still cold, do not let it warm up, or you run the risk of everything coming out of suspension again.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO COLD CRASH.

Seems I missed a step here:
Priming.
There are two schools of thought here.

One is to bottle prime. That's pouring the sugar directly in the bottle, then adding the finished beer, and cap. Keep in mind when priming the bottles directly, you may need a small funnel as the hole at the top of the bottles are realativly small, and MOST IMPORTANT is use the right end of the measuring device. There is a big difference between 1 tsp and 1 TBS.

The other is "Batch" priming. Here, you add the sugar to water, bring to a boil, cool the sweet water, and then add it to the beer in a second container for mixing. We've found a low cost helpful tool at "Wally World" called a slimline. It holds about 2.5 gallons, and works great for a Mixing container.

This is stolen directly from a fellow BeerBorg Member's post:
I've seen a number of posts recently with folks wanting to try batch priming and having a lot of questions about beer styles, levels of CO2, etc. so I thought I would start a thread here in hopes that:

1) The newer folks wanting to try this by using an online tool get their questions answered, AND

2) The old hands can offer feedback and advice in a (somewhat) singular spot

What is batch priming?
Simply stated, it's adding priming sugar to the whole batch of beer at one instead of into each individual bottle. To do this this you'll need to have a second MrB keg, a bottling bucket, or something like a slimline container from Walmart or somewhere similar.

How do you do it?
- Bring about a 1/2 cup of water to a boil
- Turn flame off and add priming sugar (whatever you choose to use)
- Let cool down to room temp (some like to let it boil for 10 minutes, I don't)
- Rack (move/drain) beer into the secondary container using the spigot, racking cane/tube, or tubing taking care to not splash and aerate the beer
- Add cooled priming solution and stir GENTLY if you choose to. Some just add the priming solution first or halfway through and let the natural movement of the draining beer mix it. The key is to sanitize everything like always and avoid splashing

How do I use a priming calculator?
First, choose one like these:
Tasty Brew
Screwy Brewer
Beer Recipricator
There are others as well if you want to search around.

I'll use the one from Tasty Brew in this example:
First: Decide how much carbonation you want in your beer. This is expressed in volumes of CO2 (2.3, 2.7, 3.0, etc.). In this tool, the styles of beer are in the drop down menu along with associated range of CO2 volumes. If you are making an American Amber Ale choose that from the drop down menu and you'll see the CO2 range from 2.26 - 2.78.

Second: Decide if the amount in the pre-populated box is what you want. It will set the middle range of that style for you. You can adjust that up or down manually by typing in the box if you like. If you're like me, you won't have any idea what this means initially (What the heck does 2.26 volumes of CO2 feel like anyway???). Until you get a feel, you'll have to test and see what you like but this is where the styles as examples come in handy. You do NOT have to stick to these guides, but they are helpful if you like the level of carb you typically see in a wheat beer for example, or a porter.

Third: Enter the amount of beer you are priming. MrB sizes are 2.14 gallons to 2.4 or 2.5 depending on how full you fill your keg. (Standard to instructions is 2.14 gallons)

Fourth: Enter the temperature that you fermented at. Why is this important? CO2 is more soluble in colder temps so if you ferment at a colder temp you have more residual (already produced) CO2 in the beer already so you need to take that into account.

Fifth: Press CALCULATE and you'll be presented with different weights for three different priming options (corn sugar, table sugar and DME). You'll have to look at the packaging, look at the manufacturer's website or talk to your LHBS about the fermentability of the DME you buy if you go that route.

The calculator at Screwy's site allows you to also choose honey as a priming agent and gives you the option to get weights or measurements but you'll have to know the volume of CO2 you want to enter manually.

It's really that simple. Don't be intimidated by the tools or the process if you want to try it. there's lots of help here for anybody that wants to try it and has questions.

(This post brought to you by an extremely long conference call at work that I have no need to be on....hopefully it's helpful to somebody)
ok, that was his imput. I've stolen it. Why? it's informative. Plus, he said I could.

There are calculators out there for figuring out how much to add for any given beer, so I am not going to post them all here.

As to which is best? Personal preference. They Both get the job done.

Once you bottle your beer, allow it to sit in a Dark Spot for at least 4 weeks. (note: it’s better to put the sugar in the bottle first, then the beer. On several occasions when adding the sugar last, the bottles have foamed up. This doesn’t happen when the sugar goes in first)This is what is going on in those 4 weeks:

The First 2 weeks at room temp (somewhere around 70*F) allows the yeast to carbonated your beer.
Sitting for an additional 2 weeks (at 70*F) allows the yeast to finish up anything it didn’t.
This is referred to as “Lagering”. This allows the beer to age a bit and allow the flavors to fight it out and learn to get along. It does not mean it has to be “Cold Lagered”.

This is ALE we’re talking here, not Lagers (that uses different yeast, and a different method of brewing).

Before you drink your beer, place it in the fridge for a few days. A week would be better. This also helps clear up the beer, and drops more out of suspension .

Don’t be in a hurry to “experiment” with your brews. Learn what they taste like first THEN play with them. It’s hard to “find” that taste with modifications if you don’t know what the original tastes like.

Some Terms:
OG : Original Gravity. This is a reading you take before you add the yest to the wort. This number tells you how much FERMENTABLE sugars are in the beer you are making. You take the reading before you add the yeast so that you're not reading a partially fermented batch.

FG : Final Gravity. This number tells you how much has fermented. As a general rule, this number should be about 1/4 of the original gravity. If you are using a wine or champagne yeast, your readings may be lower.

LBK: Little Brown Keg. It's the Mr. Beer fermenting container. It's Little, It's Brown, and it looks like a keg.

Conditioning: (AKA Lagering) Standard conditioning:
MB was famous for telling you to "Lager" your beer. This caused great amounts of confusion. To Lager actually means to "store". Americans tend to thing "COLD STORAGE" when the word lager is used. It doesn't get that warm in Germany. But, as we are making ales and not "lager beer". Ale uses a yeast that really likes temps between 64*F~75*F. So,if you drop your beers in the fridge after first bottling at say the standard 38*F, your yeast will go to sleep and never do a thing to carbinate your beer. So, you wind up with flat beer. When making a ALE BEER, "Lager" it at room temp. Our Room Temp. Not the Artic Room Temp.

Lager's... they use a different yeast, they like it cold, read the instructions on the pack. It takes longer to make the "Lager" beers. They yeast normally isn't as active as Ale yeast, and there is more to doing a Lager than a ale. I would get too long winded here to explain it all. I really suggest you ask on the boards.

HME: Hopped Malt Extract (this malt has Hops in them already)[Do not boil HME~it will destroy the hop flavor in it.]

LME: Liquid Malt Extract [can be used/boiled for hop addition]

UME: Unhopped Malt Extract [can be used/boiled for hop addition]

DME: Dry Malt Extract [can be used/boiled for hop addition, but must go thrugh a "Hot Break" Boil first]The DME hot break happens at about 211*212*F [at Sea level]. I've taken to holding the temp at 210*F for about 10 min. and allowing it to gently do a hot break. You'll see that during this process, the color goes from a creamy color to the darker clear color.

As pointed out by fellow BeerBorg members, people living at higher elevations may only need to bring the temp to 207*f~ so check your location for accurate boiling temps.

Dry Hopping: adding hops to the Wort after the boil (adds aroma)a word of caution here:( if you dry hop for more than 5 days, you may develope a "veggie" taste in your beer. so Try to Time your dry hopping. )

Flame OUT: when you turn the heat off after the boil

It’s better to chase Flavor than it is to chase alcohol %. If you chase flavor, in most cases the alcohol level will go up.

If you just add sugars to increase the alcohol content, you’ll make a nice cider…and will take months to mellow out enough to drink. New brewer just love to go all “Mad Scientist” and toss in every bit of fermentable sugars they can hoping to have a super High alcohol drink. Then they are quite put off when the beer goes all Frankenstein on them. Try to keep it down to a 2:1 malt to sugar ratio. That would be 2 parts malt, and one part “sugary stuff”.

Hop boils. (boiling hops in water alone does not allow for the “goodies” to attach to anything. It needs a Malt extract of some kind to stick to. That is where all the Boil times for the hops comes in with the Malt extract.) The time line for boils are similar to a NASA count down. Consider all times as T minus launch. So when it’s written as a 50 min addition (as is the bitterness boil) , you add those hops while you still have 50 min left in the boil. Likewise with the 22 and 7 min boils. Then, you turn the flame off. You have Launch...er, wort.

90% Bitterness is achieved at 50 min. 60 Min will give you 95%. 100% is not achieved until 110 min. It’s your time, you figure out how long you want to boil.

100% Flavor is achieved at 22 min. It’s a steep curve. With 18% at 10 min, and a drop down to 10% at 35 min. Don’t over do a flavor boil.

100% Aroma at 7 ½ min boil. This curve is steeper than the flavor boil. It drops to 10 % at 15 min, and zero at 18 min boil.

in the event this chart does not come up, please go to
http//www.brewsupplies.com/_borders/hop_utilization.jpg

Bottles:
There has been questions about bottles. What can be used, what to do with them. Why is there air..no, that's someone else's thing..never mind.
Brown Recapable Bottles. Most here at the BeerBorg Information Center have read, studied and generally come to the conclusion that Brown bottles keep out more distructive UV rays than the other bottles.
UV light tends to cause the the Hops in beer to get real rowdy and stink up the joint. It seems there is a chemical reaction that happens with the UV and Hops that causes what's known as "Skunking" the beer. Yep, it smells of "Pepe La Pew".
So the question is: Can I bottle my beer in a non-brown bottle? The answer: Yes. You sure can. To prevent (or reduce the chances) the beer from getting skunked, it's best to treat these non brown bottles like a Vampire you'd like to keep around for a while. Keep them in the dark.
Now don't get all 'noided about it. It's not like if a ray of light hits the bottle it's going to blow up. The longer the beer is exposed to the UV, the more it will skunk out.

Other types of Bottles:
PLASTIC.
PET bottles are fine. Previously used soda bottles are fine. Bottles that had a carbonated content are fine. Just make sure you've cleaned them well. As far as the Root Beer bottles... clean them with COLD WATER. Once you set that flavor in the bottle, it is there for good. In Fact, I suggest you clean all your pet bottles with cold water to prevent the unwanted setting of a flavor.
The caps from the soda bottles are good for about 5 re-uses. After that, it's a crap shoot.

Be patient

Temptation is great to drink your beers early. It’s natural. The only problem is, the beer is NOT ready yet. If you really want to see the progression of beer, you will have to wait a long time. Here is how you can do it.
after one week, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.

after two weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.
after three weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.
after four weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.

Now, wait 3 days to allow the last addition to chill. Take four small glasses. Fill one from each of the beer bottles. Now taste them in progressive order. You’ll find that the fridge will STOP the yeast from it’s work. Now you have an example of how each beer taste at a particular stage. I bet the last addition taste better.
Here is someone's video going through a 31 test period. Worth the watch:

So the lesson here is: if you can't wait for it to mature, don't be surprised if the beer only hits a "meh" level. AT that point, remember, We Told You So.

All this is lessons learned by many. Take this information for what it is worth. Learn from others, or re-invent the wheel on your own. It’s YOUR Beer.

Also, for further reading (it’s also in a updated book form:

http://web.archive.org/web/20071205194030/www.howtobrew.com/intro.html

For a hop education (profiles really)
http://www.roguebrewers.com/Hop_Profiles.html

and a heads up for when you want to start harvesting bottles with free beer in them...
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Pry_off_bottles

For a quick and easy carbination calculator Screwy Brewer has worked hard to set this up for you:
http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html#bpc

Yeast profiles
http://www.onebeer.net/yeaststrains_lager.html
http://www.onebeer.net/yeaststrains_ale.html

another point of contact at a later time:
http://www.beerborg.com/index/
we talk beer.
We're not always there, but it's possible to leave messages.

[Guest System Admin]

Nice YD!

[Kealia 3]

Guess the rest of us don't have to post anymore! :laugh:

[DCE 0]

Thanks yank, I would have saved a lot of guys a lot of time had i had this two weeks ago. I think I had a question on each point you made!

[Metzger Brewing 0]

Some great tips. I'm sure everyone appreciate the tips. Glad someone wrote them down for all to see.

[c_s_stanley 1]

I vote that one of the mods make this a sticky at the top.

[gbryant 1]

c_s_stanley wrote:

I vote that one of the mods make this a sticky at the top.

+1

[beebee381 0]

Excellent post Dag...+1

[brewlove 0]

Excellent post! +1 on the voting!

[beerfanfrombuffalo 1]

Remember guys...thats why hes the Nong!

[yankeedag 24]

Take a look in the No Post Post to see a possible update. Might as well refine this before it's officeal...I have just updated the post on this page at 2:47pm central time.. you might want to look again... sroll up.

[WretchedRon 0]

With being a great Nong comes great responsibility. He is da man that YD. Pulled my butt outta the fire a few times.

[beerfanfrombuffalo 1]

WretchedRon wrote:

With being a great Nong comes great responsibility. He is da man that YD. Pulled my butt outta the fire a few times.

+100000000 to that!

[TMed 1]

All hail the mighty beer nong.3 cheers

[Riff 0]

Great Post Yankee, thank you very much, good stuff!!

[Doc 0]

Heed the Words of the Nongs, lest there be Chaos in the Fermenter.

[btomlin75 1]

The list is very good YD but you might want to explain just how many brews you made and how much fun you had while you learned all those tricks were indeed true. Have fun and brew hoppy.

[JediJunkie247 1]

Nice list, Dag.

But you forgot........no, it's there.
You failed to mention..........ok, you did get that.
You didn't include..........nope, just saw it.

You're not making this easy.

[yankeedag 24]

you think that's bad? I just re-editied again.. I thought of something else.

oh, and as a side note: we were talking some time back about putting all that we've brewed in our signature area. I said I didn't want to take up 3 pages to list it. It would be four now. Just know I love brewing beer, and I like to help as much as possible.

[JediJunkie247 1]

yankeedag wrote:

oh, and as a side note: we were talking some time back about putting all that we've brewed in our signature area. I said I didn't want to take up 3 pages to list it. It would be four now. Just know I love brewing beer, and I like to help as much as possible.

:silly:

[yankeedag 24]

silly me... I updated it again.

[swenocha 280]

I think you need to add a pic on proper brewing attire to your post as well...

[yankeedag 24]

This one?

[swenocha 280]

yup...

[WretchedRon 0]

Proper Nong attire....

[yankeedag 24]

have a look. Done deal.

[Guest System Admin]

.

[JediJunkie247 1]

The Voodoo Brew Priest. Nice!

[JediJunkie247 1]

FrozenInTime wrote:

line 1, what's a goint?

A close relative of a "guied".

[yankeedag 24]

fixed.
looks like I need to add the "boil time explanation" bit. tomorrow.

[slykryck 0]

yankeedag wrote:

fixed.
looks like I need to add the "boil time explanation" bit. tomorrow.

The graph that's been floating around is very helpful to me as a Newbie. I'm making this post a "favorite" of mine and having that along with the explanation would be great.

[Guest System Admin]

.

[JediJunkie247 1]

FrozenInTime wrote:

A couple more if interested. Wife says I'm a pain, I used to be a copywrite editor of sorts. Just trying to help, not hinder.

Some simple guied lines:

not ALL beers will have a lot of Krause

yeast and other objects out of suspention ,

alcoho level will go up

I know the feeling. I majored in Journalism in college and worked as a reporter for a couple of years. Catching spelling errors comes a little too natural for me. :blush:

[swenocha 280]

slykryck wrote:

yankeedag wrote:

fixed.
looks like I need to add the "boil time explanation" bit. tomorrow.

The graph that's been floating around is very helpful to me as a Newbie. I'm making this post a "favorite" of mine and having that along with the explanation would be great.

Here is another great thread to bookmark. It has the graph you are speaking of, as well as several others...

[Guest System Admin]

.

[bunkyboy0712 0]

I think I speak for everyone when I say thank you for your service.

[slykryck 0]

swenocha wrote:

slykryck wrote:

yankeedag wrote:

fixed.
looks like I need to add the "boil time explanation" bit. tomorrow.

The graph that's been floating around is very helpful to me as a Newbie. I'm making this post a "favorite" of mine and having that along with the explanation would be great.

Here is another great thread to bookmark. It has the graph you are speaking of, as well as several others...

If high school teachers cared this much about students, graduation rates would sky rocket....Or maybe its that this subject is so much more interesting than anything taught in high school.

Either way, all the vets on the forum are a huge help.

[yankeedag 24]

ok thank you very much for the help. Please go back and see how the update looks. (sorry for making you go all the way back to page one on this.)

[Guest System Admin]

:gulp:

[Guest System Admin]

this is a great thread........ better than the instructions that comes with it

[yankeedag 24]

not to picky at all.

updates added. and a small modification. There is another section I want to add, but I'm still working on it. ALL FEEDBACK is appreciated.

[Guest]

Looks pretty good to me. Way to go, u da man!

[yankeedag 24]

one more time.... look in section 10, ref: T-50 count down.

[silvertip8k 0]

you guys are a regular encyclopedia britanica of beer love...
t... :chug: :chug: :chug:

[Guest System Admin]

.

[Nolanar 0]

This thread is amazing! I'll be coming here for reference the next time I start a brew.

[oly 0]

Shit Nong, this seems kind of like a last word. You better not be planning on passing into the ether after your number 10,000. We'll haunt you, ya know.

[TarHeel 0]

Great post!

[yankeedag 24]

What I'm trying to do is gather all the answeres to questions that come up in one little spot. To let the Noobz know that we've been there, done that, and what to expect. Once it gets to a point where I think I've covered all the "common" bugabooz, I'll humbly ask EricG if they would be willing to pop it up with the other permanent postings. As far as fading out after my 10k post... I never know if I'm gonna be taken out by a Coors Light Truck driven by Kenney....

...But then, most "FAQ" post always seem a little on the 'Tard side.
FAQ: If I stick my pencile in a sharpener, will my socks roll up.
Answer: No, in most cases your zipper will rust. Try drinking lots of water just before bed.

[yankeedag 24]

added more to the simple guide. Might wanna give it a perv...(this stupid thing is starting to turn into a book)

[StarRaptor 6]

Great Guide Yankee

There is also a different between UME and LME. Both are Liquid Malt Extracts. I believe UME is a Mr Beer Term to clarify the difference between it and the hopped version

[Guest System Admin]

.

[yankeedag 24]

StarRaptor, good call. But I think the UME's are pretty much the same as the LME, only in smaller portions, ment to compliment the MB HME's. My biggest fear over this whole thing is interjecting Too Much Information too soon. That's not to say I don't want to address things, but as a new brewer perv's thru the list, there is a bunch of new information tweeking their head. Their heads hurt already. So I'm just wanting to give them a small smack to the head.

[Nolanar 0]

Still looking good! Though one little thing: when you're talking about boiling the hops, the third section should mention that it's talking about aroma. The graph did, but the text doesn't.

[yankeedag 24]

Thanks... I forgot the word Aroma... you'll find it there now. I'm updating it again.

[NuBrewer 0]

what a great reference guide for us new guys. Thanks Yank!

[skydvr 0]

So, if I understand tip #10, you can boil hops for either bitterness, flavor or aroma, but not more than one of those?

Great post - I gained quite a bit of info from it.... Thanks.

[yankeedag 24]

That is why there are multiple additions of the Hops during the boil.

[myndflyte 2]

yankeedag wrote:

That is why there are multiple additions of the Hops during the boil.

Someone post the hops boiling graph. That graph explains so much in such a small graph.

[Guest System Admin]

[yankeedag 24]

ok, I posted the chart in it. Scroll up to the post

[myndflyte 2]

yankeedag wrote:

ok, I posted the chart in it. Scroll up to the post

Cool thanks. I think the graph along with the words helps to make more sense to someone just reading about boiling hops.

[bpgreen 207]

skydvr wrote:

So, if I understand tip #10, you can boil hops for either bitterness, flavor or aroma, but not more than one of those?

Great post - I gained quite a bit of info from it.... Thanks.

As you can see from the graph yankeedag posted, there's a curve for each, so when you boil for different times, you can get a combination of bitterness, flavor and aroma.

You get some bitterness boiling even for a short time, and you get more as the time goes on.

I'll sometimes take a bit of a shortcut and do two boils, one for 30 minutes (where flavor and bitterness intersect) and one for 15 minutes (where flavor and aroma intersect).

For more information on hops listen to the Mr Beer Radio shows on hops:

Part 1
Part 2

[WhiteStrat 0]

Excellent post! Thanks for taking the time. This newb certainly appreciates it!

[waltripcrew 0]

Thank you

[Zobl 1]

I can't believe I ever missed this thread! (It's been a rough couple weeks of being sick)
Nice topic dag!

Dag, since you're so open to editorial criticism...you might want to change lesions to lessons! :laugh:
yankeedag wrote: (at the very end of his non-fictional epic novel)

...All this is lesions learned by many. Take this information for what it is worth. Learn from others, or re-invent the wheel on your own. It’s YOUR Beer.

Also, for further reading (it’s also in a updated book form:

http://web.archive.org/web/20071205194030/www.howtobrew.com/intro.html

Unless you've been hurting yourself from brewing and causing lesions! :laugh:

[yankeedag 24]

Done Deal! Thanks Zobl

[jjohn7072 0]

Very Good! Thanks!

[Fio534 0]

I have a question on boiling. The Mr. Beer directions say to bring water to a boil, then turn off and add all ingredients. My next batch will have hops, should I boil the HME and UME with the hops? I know your guideline gave times for hop boils, but the basic directions don't give any instruction on it. I am going to make the Full Moon Marzen next.

[Brian1179 0]

DO NOT BOIL THE HME(hopped malt extract) only the UME(unhopped malt extract)

[Zobl 1]

Fio534 wrote:

I have a question on boiling. The Mr. Beer directions say to bring water to a boil, then turn off and add all ingredients. My next batch will have hops, should I boil the HME and UME with the hops? I know your guideline gave times for hop boils, but the basic directions don't give any instruction on it. I am going to make the Full Moon Marzen next.

You can boil UME to facilitate a hop boil schedule. But do not boil HME. HME already has hops boiled to spec and if you boil the HME further, you will change the hop profile.

[yankeedag 24]

I updated the simple guide line to reflect this information...02/04/11

[Zobl 1]

yankeedag wrote:

...DME: Dry Malt Extract [can be used/boiked for hop addition, but must go thrugh a "Hot Break" Boil first]...

yankeedag wrote:

...boiked...

Boik? Isn't that the noise made when Moe pokes Curly's eyes? :laugh:

[yankeedag 24]

nah, that's the noise the spoon makes with the pot boils over and you drop your spoon to life the boiling pot.

[skydvr 0]

If you're planning to do a hop boil with UME/DME, what is the process?

Bring water to boil, add DME and hops, boil for appropriate time?

Or add DME to (non-boiling) water, THEN bring to boil, add hops and boil for appropriate time?

Does it matter?

Thanks...

[packerduf 2]

I wouldn't add DME to boiling water - clump city. I add my DME to the water while it is heating up (all at once). Then I whip the crap out of it with a whisk. It breaks down rather quickly. Bring it to boil. Once you're past the hot break, start your hop introductions per schedule.

[skydvr 0]

Thanks... And if I understand "hot break" - it happens sometime *after* the start of the boil, and is where a foam will rise from the wort.

When that foam stops being produced, and you're back to your typical rolling boil is "after the hot break", and when you add hops and start timing the boil?

[yankeedag 24]

The DME hot break happense at about 211*212*F. I've taken to holding the temp at 210*F for about 10 min. and allowing it to gently do a hot break. You'll see that during this process, the color goes from a creamy color to the darker clear color.
I will add the DME to the water while it's still cold. As it heats up, I gently stir and the clumps dissolve.
Once the hot break has happened, then you may start your hop boils.

[yankeedag 24]

updated it today... might want to catch up on it. I've added bottles and how a Hot Break happens.

[KJI 0]

Awesome post, Great info... Thank you yankeedag !!

[yankeedag 24]

Bump... new additions by request. ok you spelling beez... time to comb over the new stuff... I'm sure I've buggared the engrish rangerige again.

[yankeedag 24]

inserted a small section on cooling the wort by request. so, um, BUMP

[yankeedag 24]

added a section for priming... need to perv it out and make sure I didn't buggar something up.

[bpgreen 207]

yankeedag wrote:

added a section for priming... need to perv it out and make sure I didn't buggar something up.

I haven't read it in a long time. It's a good read with a lot of good information.

I have some minor corrections to suggest. Nothing in terms of facts, style or approach. Just grammar/spelling things (I used to teach English . . . ).

In the pictures
VERIFY your measruements!!
s/b measurements

In the section on brewing temperatures:
If you get the temperature too low, they yeast will go to sleep.

s/b the yeast will go to sleep.

Under Bottles:
Why is there air..no, that's someone elses thing..never mind.
s/b else's (and I remember when he came out with that routine).

generaly
s/b generally

Other types of Bottles/Plastic:
Root Beer bottles... cleant them with COLD WATER.
s/b clean them

[yankeedag 24]

I thank you kind sir. I have made the corrections. As Always, if there is something that should be covered, and isn't, let me know. If someone wants to add something, as long as you are happy with me saying "from the BeerBorg" I will consider adding it, or summorize it, if it's too long.

[HairODadog 0]

bpgreen wrote:

Under Bottles:
Why is there air..no, that's someone elses thing..never mind.
s/b else's (and I remember when he came out with that routine).

not to hijack, but I have the album on vinyl

[Slothful_Lifestyle 0]

Thanks for the post! I will be trying my first brew today and this information will help quite a bit!

[yankeedag 24]

:borg: Welcome to the BeerBorg Information Center. you will be assimilated. resistance is quite futile:we have beer.

no worries. that's why it's here.

[Brewing Brother 2]

Hi All!

Now beginning my sixth batch of beer. My wonderful wife bought me the American series variety pack for my birthday next week.

BB

[Guest System Admin]

Welcome Aboard BB!

[Zobl 1]

Yes, WELCOME!
And Happy Birthday!

[YeashIdLikeABeer 0]

Any chance you could rename this to "Things I should have read before brewing that first batch"? :pinch:

[Zobl 1]

YeashIdLikeABeer wrote:

Any chance you could rename this to "Things I should have read before brewing that first batch"? :pinch:

Too wordy.
How 'bout "NOW YA TELL ME!"

[yankeedag 24]

well, I figure that most people won't find this until AFTER they get the kit and brew the first. Plus, nobody listens untill after their first batch is drank strait from the keg...

[YeashIdLikeABeer 0]

So very true. :grin:

[FedoraDave 4]

I feel like some kind of freak. I actually waited 2-2-2 on my first batch.

Of course, I immediately went all "Mad Scientist" and started mixing thing and adding adjuncts, so maybe mine was just a different brand of newbie.

[YeashIdLikeABeer 0]

FWIW, I went 2-2-2 as well. But then again I'm a rocket scientist, ever so slowly going mad; so following instructions to the letter to prove I could actually brew beer was step one. Step two, do something more difficult. Step three, go nuts.

Step three starts Saturday. :woohoo:

[yankeedag 24]

We have updates added...
Hop profiles
Harvestable bottles
and our very own
Screwy's carb calculator.

[Guest]

Really lookin good!

[Tin Man 0]

Hey YD, Awesome thread. Should have read this when I got back in to brewing earlier this year. I brewed quite a bit about 8 or 10 years ago and then made a couple bad batches (flat and/or foul) and just quit. As in QUIT for almost 10 years. These forums probably didn’t exist then or maybe I would have stuck around… But I digress...

I do have a suggestion fer ya... Somewhere near the top (after your astute mission statement) I think you could add more about the actual brewing process. You mention sanitizing and laying out ingredients, and then jump right to cooling the wort. Perhaps a few brief tips about hops, spices, adjuncts, etc. As in, “There are two ways to add additional hops: boiling and dry hopping (and while we’re at it, here is why you would add hops…).” And then continuing, “Mr. Beer says to remove from heat when it starts to boil, but what they really mean is, do not boil the HME. Not only is it OK to boil hops and some other ingredients, sometimes it is absolutely necessary…” You cover some of this later, but seems like it could be tweaked a bit or possibly rearranged.

I know some of this is kind of detailed, but certainly no more so than calculating CO2 levels, batch vs. bottle priming, and cold crashing, so it may warrant inclusion.

Thanks again for posting…
Tin Man