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WeirdBeerGuy

New Brewer here !

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Hello everyone,
Seems like Mr Beer makes as a great Christmas gift as I got one myself. I started my first batch today, keeping it simple with the Blonde Ale. My wife bought the Premium Gold Edition kit and we brewed this morning as SC is snow/ice locked. It's now tucked safely away for two weeks and will bottle it and let it condition for a while. I have been reading the forum and I see all sorts of terminology that I am not quite sure what it means. Is there a post or sticky that defines some of these abbreviations and such ? Krausen, 2-2-2, etc.....

Thanks in advance,
Reid

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WeirdBeerGuy wrote:

Hello everyone,
Seems like Mr Beer makes as a great Christmas gift as I got one myself. I started my first batch today, keeping it simple with the Blonde Ale. My wife bought the Premium Gold Edition kit and we brewed this morning as SC is snow/ice locked. It's now tucked safely away for two weeks and will bottle it and let it condition for a while. I have been reading the forum and I see all sorts of terminology that I am not quite sure what it means. Is there a post or sticky that defines some of these abbreviations and such ? Krausen, 2-2-2, etc.....

Thanks in advance,
Reid

Welcome aboard! Krausen is the foamy head that forms on top of beer during fermentation...2-2-2 is a suggested time schedule for fermentation:

2 weeks in the fermenter
2 weeks in the bottle at room temp to carb
2 weeks in the bottle at room temp to condition

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Welcome to the BeerBorg Information Center.
You will be Assimilated.
Resistance is quite Futile: We have Beer.

090910NongBrewing003.jpg

And Now a few words from THE NONG.

Some simple guidelines: (and contradictions to the Mr. Beer information & instruction sheet)

1: Sanitize everything you are going to use. The last thing you want is a “goobie” attack on your beer.

2: If your water doesn’t taste good, get some Spring water from Wally World or somewhere else.

3: It will take longer than 2 weeks to make beer.

A: 14~21 days in the keg at 66*F is good. This will allow the yeast to convert the sugars to Alcohol and the Co2 will protect your beer from oxygen.

(1) not ALL beers will react the same in the keg

(2) not ALL beers will have a lot of Krause (foam).

(3) not All beers will show activity.

(4) some beers will blow the lid off your fermenter.

(5) beers are like kids…you can make them with the same ingredience and still wind up with a different personality.

B: if you see a build up of “trub” (gunk) on the bottom of the fermenter, you ARE making beer.

C: if you want to clear the beer up a little before you bottle:

(1) cold crash. That would be to place the fermenter into the fridge for a few days. This helps drop yeast and other objects out of suspension , thus clearing up the beer.

(2)YOU DO NOT HAVE TO COLD CRASH.

4: Once you bottle your beer, allow it to: (note: it’s better to put the sugar in the bottle first, then the beer. On several occasions when adding the sugar last, the bottles have foamed up. This doesn’t happen when the sugar goes in first)

A: sit for 2 weeks at room temp (somewhere around 70*F) to allow the yeast to carbonated your beer.
B: sit for an additional 2 weeks (at 70*F) to allow the yeast to finish up anything it didn’t. This is referred to as “Lagering” to allow the beer to age a bit. It does not mean it has to be “Cold Lagered”.

This is ALE we’re talking here, not Lagers (that uses different yeast, and a different method of brewing).

5: Before you drink your beer, place it in the fridge for a few days. This also helps clear up the beer, and drops more out of suspension .

6: Don’t be in a hurry to “experiment” with your brews. Learn what they taste like first THEN play with them. It’s hard to “find” that taste with modifications if you don’t know what the original tastes like.

7: some Terms:
HME: Hopped Malt Extract (this malt has Hops in them already)

LME: Liquid Malt Extract

UME: Unhopped Malt Extract

DME: Dry Malt Extract

Dry Hopping: adding hops to the Wort after the boil (adds aroma)

Flame OUT: when you turn the heat off after the boil

8: It’s better to chase Flavor than it is to chase alcohol %. If you chase flavor, in most cases the alcohol level will go up.

9: If you just add sugars to increase the alcohol content, you’ll make a nice cider…and will take months to mellow out enough to drink. New Brewer’s just love to go all “Mad Scientist” and toss in every bit of fermentable sugars they can hoping to have a super High alcohol drink. Then they are quite put off when the beer goes all Frankenstien on them. Try to keep it down to a 2:1 malt to sugar ratio. That would be 2 parts malt, and one part “sugary stuff”.

10: Hop boils. (boiling hops in water alone does not allow for the “goodies” to attach to anything. It needs a Malt extract of some kind to stick to. That is where all the Boil times for the hops comes in with the Malt extract.) The time line for boils are similar to a NASA count down. Consider all times as T minus launch. So when it’s written as a 50 min addition (as is the bitterness boil) , you add those hops while you still have 50 min left in the boil. Likewise with the 22 and 7 min boils. Then, you turn the flame off. You havae Launch.

A: 90% Bitterness is achieved at 50 min. 60 Min will give you 95%. 100% is not achieved until 110 min. It’s your time, you figure out how long you want to boil.

B: 100% Flavor is achieved at 22 min. It’s a steep curve. With 18% at 10 min, and a drop down to 10% at 35 min. Don’t over do a flavor boil.

C: 100% at 7 ½ min boil. This curve is steeper than the flavor boil. It drops to 10 % at 15 min, and zero at 18 min boil.

?

11: Temptation is great to drink your beers early. It’s natural. The only problem is, the beer is NOT ready yet. If you really want to see the progression of beer, you will have to wait a long time. Here is how you can do it.
A: after one week, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.
B: after two weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.
C: after three weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.
D: after four weeks, take a bottle and place it in the fridge.

Now, wait 3 days after item D. Take four small glasses. Fill one from each of the beer bottles. Now taste them in progressive order. You’ll find that the fridge will STOP the yeast from it’s work. Now you have an example of how each beer taste at a particular stage. I bet D taste better.

All this is lesions learned by many. Take this information for what it is worth. Learn from others, or re-invent the wheel on your own. It’s YOUR Beer.

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Welcome and good luck. You've come to the right place for answers. Trub is the sediment layer that falls to the bottom of the keg during fermentation. It's can be a good indicator that you have fermentation going on. The 2-2-2 rule is two weeks in the fermenter,two weeks in the bottle for carbonation(at room temp),two more weeks in the bottle for conditioning(letting the yeasties finish up anything left over,also at room temp). Krausen is the foamy head on top during fermentation. Then pop in the fridge for a day or two and enjoy! Keep reading new and old posts on here and you will definitely get your info. Also ask any questions and you will surely get answers!

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Welcome to borg!

My brother lives down there and said that they pretty much closed everything the first site of a snow flake.....Whoa!!!! Watch out!!! ha ha

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Hey I'm also from the Charlotte area! Although I actually live to the west near Gastonia, NC!

Nice to see some fellow Carolinians on here!

And yes they do tend to freak out about snow and ice, although the last two days have been pretty crappy.

I to put in my first brew this past Sunday and am anxiously awaiting the day I get to crack one open!

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Carolina is takin over. lol

I live up in Mt. Airy on the Virginia border.

Welcome to the Borg.

As for the weather, I am SOOOOOOO ready for spring!!!

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Welcome to the borg. Share the obsession.

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