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I'm never using MB yeast again. I think its junk. I've yet to brew good beer with it. However using White Labs or SAFALE - 04/05 I've had great results everytime.

The results with MB yeast were average at best.

I'm not trashing MB just the yeast. I am sure there are many of you who have had good results with it but I've learned my lesson and I know there are much better yeasts out there.

That stuff has to be old but the worst part if you cant tell. I tried to rehydrate sevearl packets and got nothing. I rehydrated a packet of SAFALE 05 and it takes off like a rocket. Same with White Labs.

Just my $0.02

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Funny thing is that Mr. Beer yeast I believe is S-05 (the temp range changed use to match S-05, unless they changed the yeast)

I found that if you only use 2g, it stresses the yeast and does not work as good.

I like to use 3 packs (6g) which is approx half a pack of S-05 works like a champ then.

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Trollby wrote:

Funny thing is that Mr. Beer yeast I believe is S-05 (the temp range changed use to match S-05, unless they changed the yeast)

I found that if you only use 2g, it stresses the yeast and does not work as good.

I like to use 3 packs (6g) which is approx half a pack of S-05 works like a champ then.

Good point. If you're comparing 2 g of MB yeast to 11.5 g of Safbrew yeast, it's apples and oranges.

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I'm not at home to see the packets...but I recall something on those Fermentis packets (S-05) which says that you should use 1/2 pack unless your ABV is above 5 and then you can use the whole packet. Not completely - by generally - most homebrews are above 5% ABV.

Whether you compare a half pack or a full pack...a Mr. Beer yeast packet is anywhere from 1/3 to 1/6 the "recommended" usage.

Yeast which is stressed out is prone to off-flavors.

Whether the Mr. Beer yeast is, in fact S-05, S-33, or some galactic spacedust from Pluto...regardless...the 2 oz packet is just not enough to remotely work for what the average homebrewer makes. Your normal 3.7% ABV Commercial Beer might be able to work itself into a 2 oz. package, but it's far more the exception than the rule.

========

You experience may vary...but if you're only using 1 Mr. Beer yeast...I'm more inclined to suggest that it's less a problem with the yeast itself than it is with the application of that teenytiny bit of product.

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Trollby wrote:

Funny thing is that Mr. Beer yeast I believe is S-05 (the temp range changed use to match S-05, unless they changed the yeast)


I had always heard that people thought it was Safbrew S-33

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I read MRb yeast is S-33. Here and on other forums.
I now always use 3 pkts. I get great full krausen heads in the leg. Always worked for me.
I use US-05 and 04 or lager yeast full pkt depending on the recipe and recommendations from the forum.
I have not been able to tell the difference - yet. :) just the problem with a brewer getting experience with tastes.

All my brews to date have been very good - well less the first 2.

The cost is not that much different 3 pkts MRB Fromundra is $3. US05 $5 or less.
I have not used the smack packs or liquid yeast. I am satisfied with the results from dry yeast.

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I agree on the most part.

The only way I've noticed the off flavors receding is by long conditioning periods, or as others have said by using more than one packet.

I can't tell I've used Mr. Beer yeast after about 2 months of conditioning. Still, kinda a high price for something that shouldn't really be an issue in the first place.

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Buy some S-05 and S-04 and use it in some of your american/enlgish style batches. Save up the Mr. Beer yeast that you didn't use. If you find a beer that you like with it, for me this would be Witty Monk for example, then pitch 3 or 4 packs of it in that beer. It will ferment without the off flavors, and condition faster.

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if its ok to put [ 11.5 grams ] of yeast in a 2 gal batch , then why would i want to ever put [2 grams ] in , of any yeast ?

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If you check with a yeast pitch calculator on typical recipes, you will usually see a recommendation of somewhere between 4-7 grams of dry yeast... Meaning 2-4 packets of MrB yeast.

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jersey john wrote:

if its ok to put [ 11.5 grams ] of yeast in a 2 gal batch , then why would i want to ever put [2 grams ] in , of any yeast ?

We could reverse that argument. If it's ok toput 2 grams of yeast in the batch, then why would you ever want to put 11.5 grams in?

Or we could expand it a bit. I think you can use 50 grams. So why would you ever use 11.5?

There are actually some valid reasons for using a smaller amount of yeast (as long as you make sure to aerate enough so the yeast will have enough oxygen to reproduce healthily.

1. You may want to save some money. The fromunda yeast comes free with the refills.
2. You want to produce more esters. The reproductive phase is stressful for yeast and they produce more esters if they have to work harder to get enough cells to start fermenting.
3. Hmm. When I started to reply, I had some other reasons, but I can't think of them now.

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So are you guys saying its no good to use just the one packet of yeast that comes with each basic refill?????

I'm waiting on about 4 batches of beer to arrive and each is just the basic refill with booster. is one pack of yeast ok to use with those???

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Brew-tality wrote:

So are you guys saying its no good to use just the one packet of yeast that comes with each basic refill?????

I'm waiting on about 4 batches of beer to arrive and each is just the basic refill with booster. is one pack of yeast ok to use with those???


It's ok, but it's not optimal.

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I'll underpitch on purpose for certain wheat beers and belgians that I want more estery. But even when I underpitch a in a Mr. Beer sized batch, it's more like the equivelant amount of yeast as 3-4 grams vs. 2.

EDIT... btw, I've never actually used a single pack of Mr. Beer yeast in a batch, I've always used at least 2, and that only 1 time, 3-4 ever since.

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And something to remember for those doing a lager for the first time at colder lager temps with lager yeast... Might want to double the amount of yeast...

So if you usually use half a pack of SafeAle Dry Ale Yeast in an LBK for your ales, and you are making a lager (like the Spring Pilsner Seasonal), please DO use the whole pack that comes with it.

Lager yeast is different than ale yeast and more cells are required to endure the long cold process.

I'm planning on making one with a smack pack lager yeast (St. Louis strain) and where I would normally use one liquid yeast pack in a LBK for an ale, I will use two for the same size lager...

:ohmy:

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See, I've used 1 MB packet in approximately 10 different beers and while I didn't like all of them, I don't think any of them were not liked due to insufficient yeast. I mostly stopped using it because I started experimenting with other types of yeast and doing non-MB batches.

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Conversely, you could measure out 2 gm of S-33 or any other yeast, and pitch that, and see what the results are. I bet they'd be similar.

It's not the yeast so much as the amount of it. I've taken to ordering extra Fromunda packs with my Homebrew Club order, just to take up the slack.

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Just make a starter with the 2g packet of MrB yeast the day prior to brew day and you wont have any issues

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I've only had issues with MB yeast on my most recent batches. I had a few extras so I pitched those with each batch. Ratio was always 1 yeast per 1 can of HME/UME. The issues I have is not enough attenuation...less than 70%. For example, my last MB recipe was Ptarmigan Pale Ale and I used 3 packs (6 grams). I got 67% attenuation. Hydro sample is the sweetest pale ale I've ever tasted.

I've finally built up the equipment and courage to wash yeast now so I shouldn't have that problem anymore.

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TheConserver wrote:

Trollby wrote:

Funny thing is that Mr. Beer yeast I believe is S-05 (the temp range changed use to match S-05, unless they changed the yeast)


I had always heard that people thought it was Safbrew S-33

I guess it was S-33 not S-05

Point is that like others stated that 2g is way under pitching, yes it is enough to make beer but just barely.

Mr. Beer basic kits are designed for low cost in mind. Me I like using different yeast but do not have any issue using Mr. Beer yeast and I do. I wish I could use liquid all the time but $$$ makes it not an option (also for GF liquid yeast has Gluten)

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slykryck wrote:

I've only had issues with MB yeast on my most recent batches. I had a few extras so I pitched those with each batch. Ratio was always 1 yeast per 1 can of HME/UME. The issues I have is not enough attenuation...less than 70%. For example, my last MB recipe was Ptarmigan Pale Ale and I used 3 packs (6 grams). I got 67% attenuation. Hydro sample is the sweetest pale ale I've ever tasted.

I've finally built up the equipment and courage to wash yeast now so I shouldn't have that problem anymore.

In my opinion, even using 1 packet per can of HME/UME is under pitching. Another thing that may come into play is the gravity of the batches. While the fromunda yeast will tolerate alcohol up to about 11% (maybe 11.5%), once the alcohol level reaches a certain point, attenuation starts to drop off. I'm not sure where it starts dropping off exactly, but I usually try to use something different if my projected ABV is about 7 or 8 percent.

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Well crap I wish I would have found this thread before I made my order. I would have snagged some extra yeast as well...

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bpgreen wrote:

slykryck wrote:

I've only had issues with MB yeast on my most recent batches. I had a few extras so I pitched those with each batch. Ratio was always 1 yeast per 1 can of HME/UME. The issues I have is not enough attenuation...less than 70%. For example, my last MB recipe was Ptarmigan Pale Ale and I used 3 packs (6 grams). I got 67% attenuation. Hydro sample is the sweetest pale ale I've ever tasted.

I've finally built up the equipment and courage to wash yeast now so I shouldn't have that problem anymore.

In my opinion, even using 1 packet per can of HME/UME is under pitching. Another thing that may come into play is the gravity of the batches. While the fromunda yeast will tolerate alcohol up to about 11% (maybe 11.5%), once the alcohol level reaches a certain point, attenuation starts to drop off. I'm not sure where it starts dropping off exactly, but I usually try to use something different if my projected ABV is about 7 or 8 percent.


I had been using US-05 for most of my batches until I did a few MB batches to quickly build my pipeline back up. I usually pitched all 11.5 grams. I think this one came in at around 6%. I hopped that the 6 grams would have gotten it down further, but it didn't.

Most of the yeast was from BBB kits I bought. When I got the kits, I opened them all, took the yeast out, and threw all the packets in the fridge. I added to these when I bought a few other HMEs to supplement and make the recipes I wanted. Could be possible some of the yeast from BBB kits just wasn't as viable as i hopped.

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slykryck wrote:

bpgreen wrote:

slykryck wrote:

I've only had issues with MB yeast on my most recent batches. I had a few extras so I pitched those with each batch. Ratio was always 1 yeast per 1 can of HME/UME. The issues I have is not enough attenuation...less than 70%. For example, my last MB recipe was Ptarmigan Pale Ale and I used 3 packs (6 grams). I got 67% attenuation. Hydro sample is the sweetest pale ale I've ever tasted.

I've finally built up the equipment and courage to wash yeast now so I shouldn't have that problem anymore.

In my opinion, even using 1 packet per can of HME/UME is under pitching. Another thing that may come into play is the gravity of the batches. While the fromunda yeast will tolerate alcohol up to about 11% (maybe 11.5%), once the alcohol level reaches a certain point, attenuation starts to drop off. I'm not sure where it starts dropping off exactly, but I usually try to use something different if my projected ABV is about 7 or 8 percent.


I had been using US-05 for most of my batches until I did a few MB batches to quickly build my pipeline back up. I usually pitched all 11.5 grams. I think this one came in at around 6%. I hopped that the 6 grams would have gotten it down further, but it didn't.

Most of the yeast was from BBB kits I bought. When I got the kits, I opened them all, took the yeast out, and threw all the packets in the fridge. I added to these when I bought a few other HMEs to supplement and make the recipes I wanted. Could be possible some of the yeast from BBB kits just wasn't as viable as i hopped.

The last few times I've used it, I got between 70 and 75 per cent attenuation. But those were also only about 4-5 percent.

I'd think the packs of year should have done the job. Did you aerate the heck out of the wort when you pitched?

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bpgreen wrote:

slykryck wrote:

bpgreen wrote:

slykryck wrote:

I've only had issues with MB yeast on my most recent batches. I had a few extras so I pitched those with each batch. Ratio was always 1 yeast per 1 can of HME/UME. The issues I have is not enough attenuation...less than 70%. For example, my last MB recipe was Ptarmigan Pale Ale and I used 3 packs (6 grams). I got 67% attenuation. Hydro sample is the sweetest pale ale I've ever tasted.

I've finally built up the equipment and courage to wash yeast now so I shouldn't have that problem anymore.

In my opinion, even using 1 packet per can of HME/UME is under pitching. Another thing that may come into play is the gravity of the batches. While the fromunda yeast will tolerate alcohol up to about 11% (maybe 11.5%), once the alcohol level reaches a certain point, attenuation starts to drop off. I'm not sure where it starts dropping off exactly, but I usually try to use something different if my projected ABV is about 7 or 8 percent.


I had been using US-05 for most of my batches until I did a few MB batches to quickly build my pipeline back up. I usually pitched all 11.5 grams. I think this one came in at around 6%. I hopped that the 6 grams would have gotten it down further, but it didn't.

Most of the yeast was from BBB kits I bought. When I got the kits, I opened them all, took the yeast out, and threw all the packets in the fridge. I added to these when I bought a few other HMEs to supplement and make the recipes I wanted. Could be possible some of the yeast from BBB kits just wasn't as viable as i hopped.

The last few times I've used it, I got between 70 and 75 per cent attenuation. But those were also only about 4-5 percent.

I'd think the packs of year should have done the job. Did you aerate the heck out of the wort when you pitched?


I thought I did. Maybe it wasn't enough. I tried to stir it until there was an inch or two of foam on top.

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I'm stumped. It sounds like you did everything right. I'd've expected better attenuation.

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Brew-tality wrote:

Well crap I wish I would have found this thread before I made my order. I would have snagged some extra yeast as well...

I wasn't aware of the yeast issue either for my first 2 batches & they turned out fine, I use additional yeast now.

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pete rose haircut wrote:

Brew-tality wrote:

Well crap I wish I would have found this thread before I made my order. I would have snagged some extra yeast as well...

I wasn't aware of the yeast issue either for my first 2 batches & they turned out fine, I use additional yeast now.


I'll have to start doing the same pete. I'll just try making starters the day before like cavalrymash suggested.

Thanks

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Brew-tality wrote:

pete rose haircut wrote:

Brew-tality wrote:

Well crap I wish I would have found this thread before I made my order. I would have snagged some extra yeast as well...

I wasn't aware of the yeast issue either for my first 2 batches & they turned out fine, I use additional yeast now.


I'll have to start doing the same pete. I'll just try making starters the day before like cavalrymash suggested.

Thanks

I've read that it can be counterproductive to make a starter with dry yeast. If you're starting with a single fromuda packet, maybe it would be better to use a starter so you have a larger beginning yeast cell count, but I think that if you're using dry yeast, the preferred approach is to use enough in the first place. It's probably more cost efficient to buy more dry yeast than to buy the DME/LME to create the starter, anyway.

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I just pitched 3 packs of MB yeast into a modified blonde ale. Fermentation took off around 4 hours... I don't mind the MB yeast but I'll never use just one package again. The standard wcpa came out ok (although I overcarbed thanks to MB's suggested prime) but fermentation took a long time to kick start. The US-05 took 1 hour, although I pitched the full 11.5g into a fully custom pilsner recipe.

My .02 from a beginner? I use it because it's there.

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Yesterday I made the Classic American Blonde, and the Cowboy Golden Lager, I did use 2 packs of the Mr Beer fromunder yeast in each, activity started within 3 hours and both have a 2 inch thick layer of krausen @ 68*. But the danstar nottingham yeast I used in a Pilsner wasn't doing anything for 2 days so I repitched 2 packs of Mr beer yeast and it took off like crazy and its had krausen for 4 days now, but I do think Mr beer yeast is good when using 2 or 3 packs per batch

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ok cool. I have 4 packs of the MR B dry yeast. I'll just try pitching 2 packs in each of my 2 kegs and see how that goes. The first batch I made only used 1 packet of yeast and it came out ok. So using 2 packs per batch should improve the beer???

And P.S. pete rose haircut, I see we both just became "Beer Wranglers" haha. congrats...

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Brew-tality wrote:

Well crap I wish I would have found this thread before I made my order. I would have snagged some extra yeast as well...

Me to!

I did however order a few extra packs of yeast on my order, wish I would have ordered more now.

On another note I have read that MB yeast produces a cidery or sweet beer, is there any validity to this claim?

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stevecon wrote:


On another note I have read that MB yeast produces a cidery or sweet beer, is there any validity to this claim?


Yes and no.

It's generally not the yeast that causes cider or sweet tastes.

Cidery tastes are generally a result of high adjunct levels.

Sweet tastes can be caused by a number of things. It can be caused by too much malt compared with hops. That would not be related to the yeast.

Sweet tastes can also be caused by under attenuation. Under attenuation can happen with fromunda yeast because there isn't enough yeast to start, then there isn't enough aeration for the yeast to reproduce in a healthy manner.

The fromunda yeast can tolerate high levels of alcohol, but at higher gravity, attenuation drops off.

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bpgreen wrote:

stevecon wrote:


On another note I have read that MB yeast produces a cidery or sweet beer, is there any validity to this claim?


Yes and no.

The fromunda yeast can tolerate high levels of alcohol, but at higher gravity, attenuation drops off.

Ok I can probably find out the answer to my next question, but I'm to darn lazy to search for it, to many Full Sail LTD's in my system. What in laymen terms is attenuation in brewing. I know what attenuation means in radio frequency, and understand the definition of the word as well.

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Attenuation is simply how much of the sugars found in the beer will be fermented by the yeast. IE if your beer starts at 1.050 and finishes at 1.0125, you got 75% attentuation.

I'm going to argue slightly with BPGreens post... he's absolutly correct that the high ajunct ration is what's primarily responsible for the cidery flavors. But technically it is still the yeast producting them, due to how they ferment those simple sugars vs. more complex malt sugars. This ties into attenuation, because attenuation is directly tied to how well the yeast will ferment more and more complex sugar compounds. There is a different metabolic pathway used by the yeast to ferment very simple sugars vs. the more complex ones. Different yeasts may tollerate more adjuncts without producing as much acetaldehyde (cidery green apple flavor) as others.

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I've been using mainly Wyeast packs, since I've been doing 5 gal recipes. I just got a stir-plate, so I can't wait to see the results of that. The Us-5 has produced great results as well, but I mainly use those for Mr. Beer batches. My Mr.Beer batches lately, have turned out tasting really yeasty, and sour for some reason. Could it be that using a full pack of US-5 is too much for a 2 gal recipe? Would be batch priming change this? I've cold crashed as well, but the taste still seems off.

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Unless you fermenting at crazy temps, S-05 should leave it clean, not "yeasty and sour"... so ???

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mashani wrote:

Attenuation is simply how much of the sugars found in the beer will be fermented by the yeast. IE if your beer starts at 1.050 and finishes at 1.0125, you got 75% attentuation.

I'm going to argue slightly with BPGreens post... he's absolutly correct that the high ajunct ration is what's primarily responsible for the cidery flavors. But technically it is still the yeast producting them, due to how they ferment those simple sugars vs. more complex malt sugars. This ties into attenuation, because attenuation is directly tied to how well the yeast will ferment more and more complex sugar compounds. There is a different metabolic pathway used by the yeast to ferment very simple sugars vs. the more complex ones. Different yeasts may tollerate more adjuncts without producing as much acetaldehyde (cidery green apple flavor) as others.

I understood your post, and do did a few others, but you're getting into some fairly advanced topics.

For the most part, new brewers can expect that cider means too high adjunct or not enough conditioning.

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Unless you fermenting at crazy temps, S-05 should leave it clean, not "yeasty and sour"... so ???


I was fermenting mainly at 64 F.

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Thanks for the lesson on attenuation. I have done my homework on adjunct ratios. In the future I'm going to pitch a packet per can of HME/UME. If that isn't a good ratio please advise.

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stevecon wrote:

Thanks for the lesson on attenuation. I have done my homework on adjunct ratios. In the future I'm going to pitch a packet per can of HME/UME. If that isn't a good ratio please advise.

I'd say pitch 6g (3 packs or ~1/2 11.5g pack) for most batches and a full 11.5g pack for any higher alcohol recipe, but that's me. I'm pretty sure it's a lot easier to underpitch than overpitch.

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VanceFox wrote:

stevecon wrote:

Thanks for the lesson on attenuation. I have done my homework on adjunct ratios. In the future I'm going to pitch a packet per can of HME/UME. If that isn't a good ratio please advise.

I'd say pitch 6g (3 packs or ~1/2 11.5g pack) for most batches and a full 11.5g pack for any higher alcohol recipe, but that's me. I'm pretty sure it's a lot easier to underpitch than overpitch.

Was afraid someone would say something like that, I've got two packs for each of my next four batches, and it isn't worth it bying just 4 packs with the 8 bucks it cost for shipping. :-(

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stevecon wrote:

VanceFox wrote:

stevecon wrote:

Thanks for the lesson on attenuation. I have done my homework on adjunct ratios. In the future I'm going to pitch a packet per can of HME/UME. If that isn't a good ratio please advise.

I'd say pitch 6g (3 packs or ~1/2 11.5g pack) for most batches and a full 11.5g pack for any higher alcohol recipe, but that's me. I'm pretty sure it's a lot easier to underpitch than overpitch.

Was afraid someone would say something like that, I've got two packs for each of my next four batches, and it isn't worth it bying just 4 packs with the 8 bucks it cost for shipping. :-(

If all you have is 2 for next two batches that is better than just 1 pack.

I would consider 4g the lowest amount I would use from now on.

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VanceFox wrote:

Like he said. If you only have 4g, pitch 4g. It'll make beer. Also, MB isn't the only place where you can get yeast if you don't have a home brew shop near you.


Amazon Brewing Yeast

Copy that, I don't have a LHBS near me, about 50 miles away.

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