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ManBeast

First batch FAIL???

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So I am worried that my first batch will be bunk. I know for a fact that I used older yeast and HME but I pitched extra yeast in hopes of some success rate. That is why I suspect the FAIL but also because it really didn't foam at all. I followed the directions perfectly and stirred it up after pitching the yeast and letting it sit for a bit. There was less than half an inch of foam for the first couple days and now it is clear. Is it a waste? Can I save it by adding some yeast from my LHBS, or if I open my fermentor is the batch done?

Either way it was good experience and I have new yeast on the way.

Oh and it is a basic booster recipe of Octoberfest Vienna Lager except I pitched two packets of supplied Mr.Beer Yeast. Thanks in advance.

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How old was the yeast and HME? The yeast may not be as forgiving but the HME might. Plus, if the temps weren't good, old yeast has less of a chance to become active.

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If you had krausen then something was happening. If you have a trub layer at the bottom of the keg you're making beer. If you have a hydrometer, take a gravity reading and let us know what it is. That would be the most useful piece of information to determine how it's doing. But more than likely you're fine.

Cheers!

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Sounds like you had fermentation Does it taste like flat beer? Another case in point for using a hydrometer

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If you had foam (krausen) for the first couple of days, and kept a reasonable temp, you're probably making beer. Mr.B basic recipe's don't ever show a lot of promising activity.

Let it go 14-21 days. Taste it. If it taste like flat beer you've suceeded.

Shine a light thru the bottom of the keg. Should see some trub building up.

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The hydrometer is coming with the new yeast. :cheer:

Yeast was pretty old but the HME had just expired. The temps have stayed between 67-70 degrees between morning and night and there is trub in the bottom of the fermentor. I just assumed there would be much more foam initially and that it would stay longer. Maybe there is hope. Thanks for the quick replies.

Edit** Also it has been in the LBK for 1 week so far and I was going to wait about 2 more.

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That's a good temp range for fromunda yeast. Some let every batch go 3 weeks. I ferment right around 67*, and every batch has been ready in 14-16 days.

Move into some delux and premium recipe's, and try other yeast. s-05 and s-04 are both great. I promise you'll see plenty of activity.

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I just bottled my first batch of West Coast Pale Ale this weekend, and I experienced the same thing in the fermenter. For the first few days there was 1/4 inch of foam and then it totally went away, and I was worried I'd done something wrong. However, when I bottled after 2 weeks it did taste like flat beer, and after almost 1 week since bottling my PET bottles are rock hard. Don't flush your brew--it still has potential to be good!

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I did a Coopers European lager in my carboy so I get to watch. There is just a very thin layer of krausen but I have decent trub at the bottom and really little bubbles keep coming to the top. This has been going on 3 weeks today so I know there is activity. I will be testing gravity in a couple 3 more days and then again next Thursday so I know that it has finished, then I can bottle condition for 3-4 weeks and cold condition for 3-4 weeks after that.

Patience is a virtue in this homebrew business and I have learned a lot from that and this BORG. Thanks to all who give gainful insight. :cheers:

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mnstarzz13 wrote:

RDWHAHB - welljust RDW and HAHB in a month or so ;) sounds like all is well.

I'm new here but I'll guess that means relax don't worry have a home brew?? I would but this is the first batch. Haha

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I haven't been doing this very long, but it seems to me that every beer reacts a bit differently to their yeast buddies. I had a stout that I pitched with 11.5g of S-04 and I had almost 2 inches of krausen the next morning and it stuck around for almost 3 full days. My next batch was a wheat beer and I used US-05 and I never witnessed more than a 1/4 inch of krausen, so I was worried until I saw some bubbling on the surface and some trub on the bottom. Every beer is a bit different, I guess.

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manosteel9423 wrote:

I haven't been doing this very long, but it seems to me that every beer reacts a bit differently to their yeast buddies. I had a stout that I pitched with 11.5g of S-04 and I had almost 2 inches of krausen the next morning and it stuck around for almost 3 full days. My next batch was a wheat beer and I used US-05 and I never witnessed more than a 1/4 inch of krausen, so I was worried until I saw some bubbling on the surface and some trub on the bottom. Every beer is a bit different, I guess.

This is very true. Even the same recipe could behave differently the next time you make it.

Look for trub, give it time, use a hydrometer, and chill out. If your process was good, the rest will take care of itself.

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Well thanks to everyone for the support. I'm bottling this batch tomorrow and after a few days of cold crashing I gave it a little taste. Even though it was flat I could tell it tasted great. First batch was a success. Now to make sure I don't make any bottle bombs and waste any. Cheer.

Ash

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Congrats, Ash!

Just think, in another month, you'll be drinking your very own creation AND you should have a couple more batches in your pipeline!

If you haven't already found it...use this:

http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html#bpc

Don't go by the MRB guidelines for priming your beer or you will end up with over-carbonation. Screwy's calculator is pretty easy to use and you'll be happy with the results.

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The pipeline has commenced indeed. I have 3 other fermentors on the go with basic booster batches of Whispering Wheat, High Country Canadian Draft, and West Coast Pale Ale. What is the verdict on cold crashing? I've done 3 days and I think it's fine. I just put it in the fridge though didn't really monitor the temp. Also now I have to do my bottling research. I had planned on priming with the screwy brewer's calculator but the process after the fact is what I was unsure about. Bottle, prime, roll, store, .......??? Check if hard? then what? Do I just wait 2 weeks and hope they don't explode?


Ash

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Be sure to add sugar to the bottle before filling with beer. You will remove keg from fridge and commensce bottilg. Once filled, capped and rolled and just leave bottles at or around the fermentation tmp (room temp) for 4 weeks (2weeks to carb and 2 to condition) as longa as you dont bottle before fermentation ends, dont have an infection, dont over prime, and your botles are in good condition you wont have bottle bombs.

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Also I may not be out of the water with this one just yet. I hadn't read the cleansing portion yet and washed my bottles with mild dish soap then let them dry. I sanitized them normally but will this possibly affect my beer?

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I bottled my first four batches in bottles cleaned with dish soap and never had any real problems. I had some with not much head, but the carb was always good and no off flavors.

You're fine!

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Well it is certainly messing with my head. I went and bought some sani-brew to clean from now on but since it is bleach based I'm worried about that one too. I also check my bottles regularly because I'm worried they will explode. I didn't over prime for sure and it was in the LBK for 3 weeks so I shouldn't worry but I do haha. Thanks again everyone for the reassuring words.

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Oxiclean Free seems to be the cleaner of choice. You can find it in the laundry aisle at most grocery stores or Walmart, etc. Whatever you use, just be sure it is free of perfumes or strong smells and rinse really well.

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+1 to Oxiclean Free. Following a tip here from a thread, I found a generic version of unscented oxiclean in one of the dollar stores for a dollar. Very happy with it.

Ash, I think you'll do fine. I'm a worrier by nature, too. As you get more familiar and confident with this, you'll relax more and enjoy it a whole lot.

The first few months is a rush of learning and work with little to no reward. I was a twisted ball of frustration. The pipeline is just now starting to trickle in with promise for a steady flow ahead. Life is good and getting better.

Happy brewing!

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I feel you, my first batch might be failed. Extremely sweet to the point of almost tasting sour.

It hasn't discouraged me at all though, about to get rolling on a second batch!

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Oh I wouldn't let this or anything discourage me I'm sure. I already had 3 other fermentors on the go. I've also cleaned this fermentor and filled it with the Chocolate Covered Cherries Recipe. :P

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On 3/1/2012 at 1:15 PM, T8r Salad said:

I did a Coopers European lager in my carboy so I get to watch. There is just a very thin layer of krausen but I have decent trub at the bottom and really little bubbles keep coming to the top. This has been going on 3 weeks today so I know there is activity. I will be testing gravity in a couple 3 more days and then again next Thursday so I know that it has finished, then I can bottle condition for 3-4 weeks and cold condition for 3-4 weeks after that.

Patience is a virtue in this homebrew business and I have learned a lot from that and this BORG. Thanks to all who give gainful insight. :cheers:

I love those Coopers EU lager kits.  Doing a bunch and it takes between 3-4 weeks.  I start around 45 degrees and it sits in the garage up to around 65 degrees, now in winter.  Not sure if I should keep colder but it seems to taste great so far.

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On Thursday, March 01, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ManBeast said:

The hydrometer is coming with the new yeast. :cheer:

Yeast was pretty old but the HME had just expired. The temps have stayed between 67-70 degrees between morning and night and there is trub in the bottom of the fermentor. I just assumed there would be much more foam initially and that it would stay longer. Maybe there is hope. Thanks for the quick replies.

Edit** Also it has been in the LBK for 1 week so far and I was going to wait about 2 more.

Chances are good you missed observing the most vigorous fermentation. You had foam and you have sediment, both are good signs. Experienced brewers talk about pitch rates, yeast starters and yeast nutrients. Ignore them, LOL. Not really, but for beginners it causes unnecessary worry. In theory, if you thoroughly cleaned and sanitized EVERYTHING that comes in contact with the wort, it will only take one living yeast cell to start fermentation (it would take longer and the risk of contamination is great, but it could be done).

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5 hours ago, Bopper09 said:

I love those Coopers EU lager kits.  Doing a bunch and it takes between 3-4 weeks.  I start around 45 degrees and it sits in the garage up to around 65 degrees, now in winter.  Not sure if I should keep colder but it seems to taste great so far.

So far (only made 2 ) but I have been impressed with the Coopers 6 gal kits made to recipe.  The ones I modified have not all been that good. I made Pilsener and Dark Ale. and Australian Bitter. The Pilsener was good with 0.5 oz Saaz in it. I have a bunch more kinds to go try. 

 

Do not have the European Lager though only Mr Beer one.  Not sure they are the same - they are targeted at different markets.

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I'll be "That Guy":  psst, y'all are replying to a thread that's been dormant for almost five years.

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6 hours ago, Shrike said:

I'll be "That Guy":  psst, y'all are replying to a thread that's been dormant for almost five years.

Bwa-ha-ha!  I was waiting for that. :)

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7 hours ago, Shrike said:

I'll be "That Guy":  psst, y'all are replying to a thread that's been dormant for almost five years.

Ha Ha..... saves making a new topic heading.  Efficiency is important. 

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On 12/15/2016 at 8:53 PM, Shrike said:

I'll be "That Guy":  psst, y'all are replying to a thread that's been dormant for almost five years.

Woof. Who bumped that thread from 2012?

 

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On ‎12‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 8:13 PM, Ron Howard Dawson said:

Woof. Who bumped that thread from 2012?

 

To lazy to start a new one :lol:

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On ‎2016‎-‎12‎-‎15 at 8:55 PM, Nickfixit said:

So far (only made 2 ) but I have been impressed with the Coopers 6 gal kits made to recipe.  The ones I modified have not all been that good. I made Pilsener and Dark Ale. and Australian Bitter. The Pilsener was good with 0.5 oz Saaz in it. I have a bunch more kinds to go try. 

 

Do not have the European Lager though only Mr Beer one.  Not sure they are the same - they are targeted at different markets.

I find it better to use a full can of Coopers (no matter what kind, as I do pilsner's, blonds, euro lagers, Mexican, beers that don't foam a lot and run over the top) into the LBK without any malts or sugars, and add a slight bit more water, just enough the beer doesn't ferment over the top.  I tastes much better than Mr beer kit with added malt.  And it's cheaper.  More yeast in the Coopers can as well, so I never worry about hydrating it,  just throw it in.

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3 hours ago, Bopper09 said:

I find it better to use a full can of Coopers (no matter what kind, as I do pilsner's, blonds, euro lagers, Mexican, beers that don't foam a lot and run over the top) into the LBK without any malts or sugars, and add a slight bit more water, just enough the beer doesn't ferment over the top.  I tastes much better than Mr beer kit with added malt.  And it's cheaper.  More yeast in the Coopers can as well, so I never worry about hydrating it,  just throw it in.

So using the complete can in an LBK will make it 3x as bitter as intended, but I guess that is OK if you like it that hoppy.

It will surely up the flavor and the ABV - 6.5 - 7.5% maybe?

Definitely cheaper to get those stats that way

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20 hours ago, Nickfixit said:

So using the complete can in an LBK will make it 3x as bitter as intended, but I guess that is OK if you like it that hoppy.

It will surely up the flavor and the ABV - 6.5 - 7.5% maybe?

Definitely cheaper to get those stats that way

The way I like it anyway.  For mexican and euro lager or canadian light or blond.  I tried a canadabrew pilsner that way and it was way too strong, like Rickard's Red on roid's.  I also fill the water up quite close to the top, leaving just enough space to not foam over, so it's a bit more watered down than a standard mr beer kit and fill to the line.  And I dont' take ABV, I just leave it sit for 3 weeks and bottle, unless it's lagering then it may need longer, but the bubbles and smell tell all.  And I don't feel like I get too drunk off of them, as the mex and lager come with 7 gram packs, but I'm guessing it'd be closer to 6%.  I may pick up a hyrdometer the next time I'm downtown, but I wait longer anyway, because I did a bunch at a 2 week ferment, and the beer was nowhere near as clear, tasted fine, but nowhere near as clear, so I'm going to stick with a 3 week, and maybe more with the euro lagers.

It's also nicer because I just pour out the can, and don't piss around scooping every last bit of it and spilling wort everywhere.  So 1. It's cheaper, 2. It tastes better and 3.  It's lazier.  Worth a try one time, anyway.  And if it comes with 11 grams of yeast, just don't pour it all in.

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1 hour ago, Bopper09 said:

The way I like it anyway.  For mexican and euro lager or canadian light or blond.  I tried a canadabrew pilsner that way and it was way too strong, like Rickard's Red on roid's.  I also fill the water up quite close to the top, leaving just enough space to not foam over, so it's a bit more watered down than a standard mr beer kit and fill to the line.  And I dont' take ABV, I just leave it sit for 3 weeks and bottle, unless it's lagering then it may need longer, but the bubbles and smell tell all.  And I don't feel like I get too drunk off of them, as the mex and lager come with 7 gram packs, but I'm guessing it'd be closer to 6%.  I may pick up a hyrdometer the next time I'm downtown, but I wait longer anyway, because I did a bunch at a 2 week ferment, and the beer was nowhere near as clear, tasted fine, but nowhere near as clear, so I'm going to stick with a 3 week, and maybe more with the euro lagers.

It's also nicer because I just pour out the can, and don't piss around scooping every last bit of it and spilling wort everywhere.  So 1. It's cheaper, 2. It tastes better and 3.  It's lazier.  Worth a try one time, anyway.  And if it comes with 11 grams of yeast, just don't pour it all in.

 

It's OK to use the whole 11 grams. It doesn't store well once opened, and it will guarantee a healthy ferment. The amount of yeast used doesn't determine your ABV.

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1 hour ago, MRB Josh R said:

 

It's OK to use the whole 11 grams. It doesn't store well once opened, and it will guarantee a healthy ferment. The amount of yeast used doesn't determine your ABV.

Even better for lagers to use it all, it will help with clean flavor with a fast starting ferment

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On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2016 at 9:55 PM, Nickfixit said:

So far (only made 2 ) but I have been impressed with the Coopers 6 gal kits made to recipe.  The ones I modified have not all been that good. I made Pilsener and Dark Ale. and Australian Bitter. The Pilsener was good with 0.5 oz Saaz in it. I have a bunch more kinds to go try. 

 

Do not have the European Lager though only Mr Beer one.  Not sure they are the same - they are targeted at different markets.

For those missing the old "Nut Brown Ale" HME can, the Cooper's DIY site says that those who lament its passing can get close by adding crystal malt steep to the brew of Traditional Dark Ale HME.  http://us.diybeer.com/brewing-info/recipes/ale-recipes/nut-brown-ale-23-litres

I have 2 of the Dark Ale cans so I will try that I think

 

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1 hour ago, Nickfixit said:

For those missing the old "Nut Brown Ale" HME can, the Cooper's DIY site says that those who lament its passing can get close by adding crystal malt steep to the brew of Traditional Dark Ale HME.  http://us.diybeer.com/brewing-info/recipes/ale-recipes/nut-brown-ale-23-litres

I have 2 of the Dark Ale cans so I will try that I think

 

 

It's strange that the recipe doesn't mention which Crystal malt to use (I will look into this), but my assumption would be C60.

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1 hour ago, MRB Josh R said:

 

It's strange that the recipe doesn't mention which Crystal malt to use (I will look into this), but my assumption would be C60.

Glad to see someone else has to

work today too and its not just me

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2 minutes ago, Creeps McLane said:

Glad to see someone else has to

work today too and its not just me

 

Yeah, if you want to call this job "work". lol. ;)

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8 hours ago, MRB Josh R said:

 

It's strange that the recipe doesn't mention which Crystal malt to use (I will look into this), but my assumption would be C60.

Thanks, that will help.  But I did make a  toy to answer questions like that before the holiday so we could have figured it out.

Just ask Marvo the Magnificent!   "Should I use Crystal 60" ......."Yes, definitely!"

I did upgrade him to color and I am making some other adaptations since the Christmas Holiday is over.  And I gave the owl green LED eyes.

This is the early version....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_8yqnVcbS5gT1cxcWhSb2l5N1k/view?usp=drivesdk

 

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6 minutes ago, Nickfixit said:

Thanks, that will help.  But I did make a  toy to answer questions like that before the holiday so we could have figured it out.

Just ask Marvo the Magnificent!

I did upgrade him to color and I am making some other adaptations since the Christmas Holiday is over.  And I gave the owl green LED eyes.

This is the early version....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_8yqnVcbS5gT1cxcWhSb2l5N1k/view?usp=drivesdk

 

W...t...f??? Marvo has all the answers!!!

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Just now, Creeps McLane said:

W...t...f??? Marvo has all the answers!!!

If Yes, No or Maybe are enough.....

 

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