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mjkatona

Second Dry Run

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Yet to be a first time brewer. Still trying to figure out the process. Excuse me if these are newbie questions..

1) Where do/did you put your MB yeast-o-meter thermonitor?

2) So I placed 4L of water into the keg, added 4cups of boiling water (pitching the yeast), and fill the keg to the 8.5 liter w/ water. Of course the temp is way above what it should be. Is this OK as long as I'm able to get the temp down?

3) I'm in Tampa Florida and planning on keeping the keg in a huge Igloo cooler on the patio with a single frozen 2 liter pop bottle. I'm planning on keeping the drain plug of the cooler open to try and rotate air flow. Thoughts? Would the garage be better than the patio?

Any other suggestions for a South Florida new Brewer?

Thanks again gents!

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The How To videos on MR. Beers website are excellent. But boiling water will kill the yeast, you don't want to do that.

Put the 4 quarts of cold water in the keg, put 4 cups of water in a pan, disolve the booster then bring to a boil, turn off heat and stir in the HME. Then pour into the keg and fill keg to the 8.5 quart mark, then pitch the yeast and you're done for about three weeks.

The thermometer just sticks to the side of the keg, I put mine at a mid point vertically and horizontally.

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mjkatona -- Welcome to the obsession and to the forums.

1) I placed my thermometer about the midway point of the keg towards the front.

2) One thing that I regularly do is refrigerate my water for 24 to 48 hours before brew day. 3 Ozarka 3 liter bottles work perfectly for this. I take 1 bottle out for brewing. Once the wort is ready, I remove the other bottles from the refrigerator and fill the LBK to the 1 gallon mark. Then I carefully add the wort, then top it off the rest of the way with the cold water. Doing this has consistently put me right at 68 to 70 degrees.

If you find that your temperature too high, I would wait before pitching the yeast. If I'm using the MrB yeast, I like to pitch at the 68 to 70 degree range.

3) I would think the garage would be better than the patio -- someplace where the ambient temperature is a little lower and doesn't fluctuate as much. I'm not certain that air flow is really necessary. I've used the cooler and water bottles method inside my townhouse and fermented that batch at a consistent 62 degrees. I was using Safale US-05 yeast. Incidentally, I achieved the best attenuation so far from that batch. I used 1 small frozen water bottle, which I placed on top of the lid of the LBK and let gravity do its thing with the cooler air. I would rotate frozen water bottles every 12 hours.


Good luck and let us know how it goes.


Rick

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+1 on the Mr. B videos. They are well worth watching.

I also put a couple of gallons of spring water into the refrigerator the day before I brew to chill the water. Put the four cups of water in a pan and bring it to a boil. Stir in any booster you are using. Take it off the heat and add the LME. Let it stand for a minute while you pour one gallon of the chilled spring (or whatever) water into the LBK. Then you can safely pour the hot, but not now boiling, water into the keg. The cold water will cool it down more to about normal room temperature. If not, add more chilled water from the refrigerator. If it is at room temp after pouring in the wort, you can also just add room temp water instead of chilled. Bring the water level up to the 8 mark on the back of the LBK. Stir it a bit so it is all mixed. Then take you Original Gravity (OG) if you have a hydrometer. Then add the yeast (I'd use more that the little packet that came with the old Mr. B mixes - at least 2 packets of 2 oz. if you have them. You could also get a packet of Safale 05 and add the whole thing). After five minutes stir VIGOROUSLY and cap the LBK. In two or three weeks you will have to bottle your beer!

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Thanks to all. I did review the first two videos and have questions (because I question EVERYTHING) ...
isanasanitized spoon to stir both the HME and the Keg.. Do you all also use this method? Do you re-sanatize in-between the actions?

2) He has a plastic measuring cup, BUT, we are told to not use a plastic or wood spoon.. Logic here says he's in the wrong and should use a glass or metal cup.... Thoughts??

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Well, I'm not a gent, but... ;)

I use plastic cups. Sanitizing was a pain in the patoot until I got some Star-San and a 1-qt spray bottle. I spray everything, before and in between. It only takes 10-30 sec to sanitize, depending on whom you ask. I usually use 30sec and so far have had no problems. Wooden spoons are a bad idea because they are very porous and can therefore harbor bacteria and be tough to sanitize. I use a plastic spoon or metal whisk to aerate.

Have fun! I love beer and I love making beer and isn't that a happy coincidence? Welcome to the obsession! You'll find lots of help here! :chug:

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Yes, sanitize between uses, etc. It is easy to have a dish of your sanitizer, whether the stuff Mr. B sells or Star San and put your spoon into the dish between uses. I'd also rinse off any wort or whatever before putting it into the sanitizer.

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"mjkatona" post=264792 said:

Thanks to all for the help! Here is the first batch fermenting away.

306104_440891182601599_100000421629481_1


Halfway there almost...
[attachment=8099]Applause.jpg[/attachment]

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