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jhnh1010

Help.....stuck at 1.020

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Here we go. 2lbs of Briess Amber LME + 1 can High Country Canadian
Sg 1.052
1 week in lbk
stuck at 1.020 for 3 days
So... went to local home brew store ,takled to the owner. We think that it got to cold ...below 65F and the yeast went dormant. Advice:stir gently and put in a warmer room, and bought a package of nottingham yeast to add as a backup. So I went home and moved it to a warmer room gave it a stir and still no action.
Next day activated Nottingham yeast and put it in. Bubbled like crazy for about a 1/2 hr then nothing.
Still at 1.020 why would it stop and hold here?
Qbrew gives a fnal graviity around 1.13
HELP PLEASE

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1 week is not enough either way. Let it sit at least 1 more week and try again.

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What was the original yeast.?

I had a Porter BTP that was stuck about 10 points to high. Used S04. 3 days same reading - Bottled and it was great.

Had another OFVL+WWW Used 2 MRB yeast Stuck at 7 points high. Added 1/2 pkt MRB yeast to 1 tsp honey to boiled water (-micro) Cooled in fridge before adding yeast. Dumped in LBK. Krausen in 2 days. In 8 days FG was 1 point high. Bottled. Problem I did have was over carb :) I used the required prime, the bottles were really hard and bulged. I vented each just a bit. Turned out great.

Wait 5 to 7 days then just bottle it.

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I've got a very similar issue. It seems the majority of my beers with extract stop at 1.018 - 1.020. I wish they were a few points lower. The last two batches I did was the HCCD + LME/Booster with an OG of 1.052 that is currently two weeks in the LBK and at 1.020. The other is the OVL+LME/Booster with an OG of 1.061 that is also two weeks in the LBK and at 1.018. Both batches brewed on the same day, pitched with 6g (3 packets each) of re-hydrated fromunda yeast and kept in my chest freezer at 68F. I'm giving them another week, but I don't expect much movement. So my question for the borg veterans is what is your typical FG readings on extract batches? Is around 1.020 normal or should I look at something else as a problem like aeration?

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"jaydubwill" post=267559 said:

I've got a very similar issue. It seems the majority of my beers with extract stop at 1.018 - 1.020. I wish they were a few points lower. The last two batches I did was the HCCD + LME/Booster with an OG of 1.052 that is currently two weeks in the LBK and at 1.020. The other is the OVL+LME/Booster with an OG of 1.061 that is also two weeks in the LBK and at 1.018. Both batches brewed on the same day, pitched with 6g (3 packets each) of re-hydrated fromunda yeast and kept in my chest freezer at 68F. I'm giving them another week, but I don't expect much movement. So my question for the borg veterans is what is your typical FG readings on extract batches? Is around 1.020 normal or should I look at something else as a problem like aeration?

The final gravity depends greatly on the original gravity, as well as on the yeast used, fermentation temperatures, aeration and a few other variables. But the biggest consideration is the original gravity. If you're doing a mash, there are other factors, but since you specified extract, the biggest factor is the OG.

A general rule of thumb is that you can expect approximately 75% apparent attenuation. There are calculators that will tell you precicely what you're getting, but the easy way to estimate is to subtract 1 from the OG and FG. The resulting FG should be about 1/4 the OG. For example, if your OG is 1.052, subtract 1 to get .052. Divide that by 4 to get .013. So your estimated FG is 1.013.

If your estimated FG is 1.013 and you have 1.015, that's pretty close. If it's 1,020, you've probably got a stuck fermentation.

So let's take a look at your brews.

First brew has an OG of 1.052, so we'd expect a FG of around 1.013. You're sitting at 1.020, so it's either still working or it's stuck. Since you're fermenting at 68 and using the fromunda yeast (3 packs rehydrated), it should go lower than that. Did you aerate well? If it doesn't drop a few points in the next few days, I'd consider adding some yeast energizer.

The second batch had an OG of 1.061, so we'd expect the FG to drop to about 1.015 to 1.016. It's sitting at 1.018, so it's pretty close to where it should be. It would be nice if it dropped another point or a couple more points, but it's close enough that I wouldn't be concerned about it.

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I aerate with my stick blender using the aeration disk, both before I pitch the yeast and then again 30 minutes later. I can only aerate for about two minutes before the foam spills out the top of the LBK. I've been thinking about getting a diffusion stone and using oxygen instead for future batches. As far as the current one goes, I'll not worry about the OVL (@1.018) and pitch a yeast energizer on the HCCD (@1.020). I have some nutrient from my LHBS, but think it was for wine. It has urea and DAP, but I'm guessing yeast nutrient and energizer are two different things?

My second option is to rack the HCCD onto the yeast cake of a Whispering Wheat batch I used SAFALE-US05 on, but that one currently has kreusen up to the lid and probably won't be done for another week. The WW is actually a slightly bigger beer (OG 1.060), but I hopped my HCCD like an IPA to 70 IBU's.

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My Porter crapped out at 1.034. Used Wyeast 1028 700ml starter on stir plate for 14 hours.. Mixed up the trub to put the yeast back into suspension, no help. Purchased a vial of WLP007 and created 1 L starter, on the stir plate for 4 hours, no help. Batch turned out very tasty either way. I've heard that the best way to restart the fermentation is to rack the beer directly onto another yeast cake. Let me know how it turns out.

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"jaydubwill" post=267578 said:

I aerate with my stick blender using the aeration disk, both before I pitch the yeast and then again 30 minutes later. I can only aerate for about two minutes before the foam spills out the top of the LBK. I've been thinking about getting a diffusion stone and using oxygen instead for future batches. As far as the current one goes, I'll not worry about the OVL (@1.018) and pitch a yeast energizer on the HCCD (@1.020). I have some nutrient from my LHBS, but think it was for wine. It has urea and DAP, but I'm guessing yeast nutrient and energizer are two different things?

My second option is to rack the HCCD onto the yeast cake of a Whispering Wheat batch I used SAFALE-US05 on, but that one currently has kreusen up to the lid and probably won't be done for another week. The WW is actually a slightly bigger beer (OG 1.060), but I hopped my HCCD like an IPA to 70 IBU's.

Your aeration technique is sound, so that's not the issue.

Yeast nutrient for wine and beer are basically the same thing. The main ingredient is usually some form of nitrogen (like urea and/or DAP).

Yeast nutrient and yeast energizer are slightly different, but they're pretty similar. Yeast nutrient is usually added near the beginning of the fermentation and yeast energizer is used to restart a stuck fermentation. Since you've got yeast nutrient, you can make something similar to yeast energizer. Get a little bit of yeast (it can be bread yeast from the supermarket, since we're going to kill it, anyway, or it can be brewers yeast from the health food store if you have some of that sitting around). Add a teaspoon of yeast nutrient and a teaspoon of yeast to 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water. Bring it to a boil. Let it cool to room temperature and gently pour it into the fermenter. Some people will also gently rock the fermenter or even lightly stir the trub with a sanitized spoon (but be careful not to aerate at this point).

If that doesn't cause the gravity to drop more over the next week, maybe the yeast from the WWW batch can help.

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Thanks for the tips. I've got a jar of bread yeast already at home so I'll mix up some of the energizer as you've described. I'll let you know in a week how it's doing.

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I am wondering if it a problem with the Mr.Beer Ale yeast. The next batch I do will be with a store bought ale yeast and a similar recipe . I will post an update after bottling the current batch.

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First I wanted to apologize to jhnh1010 for hijacking his thread. Hopefully our similar issue can help other brewers with this problem. I'm curious if you've taken another hydro sample?

As far as my High Country Canadian Draft IPA the yeast energizer concoction (cooked bread yeast + yeast nutrient) added with a gentle swirl of a big spoon in the LBK to get the yeast back into suspension worked like a charm. a week later (week 3 in the LBK) my gravity dropped 6 points to 1.014. I called er'dun and bottled.

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"jaydubwill" post=269196 said:

First I wanted to apologize to jhnh1010 for hijacking his thread. Hopefully our similar issue can help other brewers with this problem. I'm curious if you've taken another hydro sample?

As far as my High Country Canadian Draft IPA the yeast energizer concoction (cooked bread yeast + yeast nutrient) added with a gentle swirl of a big spoon in the LBK to get the yeast back into suspension worked like a charm. a week later (week 3 in the LBK) my gravity dropped 6 points to 1.014. I called er'dun and bottled.

Excellent. With an OG of 1.052, 1.014 is pretty acceptable.

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I just bottled mine tonight 6/19
I could not get mine to move at all still stuck at .020
I just don't understand why it stopped . I did a starter with Nottingham and nothing more happened . Tasted my hydrometer sample and it tasted ok. But I was shooting for 5% not 4%

"bpgreen" post=269209 said:

"jaydubwill" post=269196 said:

First I wanted to apologize to jhnh1010 for hijacking his thread. Hopefully our similar issue can help other brewers with this problem. I'm curious if you've taken another hydro sample?

As far as my High Country Canadian Draft IPA the yeast energizer concoction (cooked bread yeast + yeast nutrient) added with a gentle swirl of a big spoon in the LBK to get the yeast back into suspension worked like a charm. a week later (week 3 in the LBK) my gravity dropped 6 points to 1.014. I called er'dun and bottled.

Excellent. With an OG of 1.052, 1.014 is pretty acceptable.

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Someone was theorizeing on a differnt post that the amount of unfermatables was higher in extracts as compared to all grain worts. I'm wondering if 1.020 for your 3+ lbs of LME was just all she could do. I was googling stuck at 1.020 and it seems really common for extract brewers to hit that wall.

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The mash temperatures used to make extract tend to provide "average" fermentabiliy. You can mash at lower temps and get more fermentability when doing AG for sure yes. You can simulate this with extracts by using a little bit of dextrose. You can also mash at higher temperatures and get less fermentability then extracts.

1.020 is too high, extracts should not stick there. I think the 1.020 wall often more related to yeast happyness then extract fermentability. EDIT: Although it's possible the extract doesn't have good FAN / yeast nutrient profile if it's old and/or crappy somehow, which would lead to the yeast unhappyness. Yeast Nutrients woudl fix that.

FWIW, I get most of my bulk extracts these days from MoreBeer and never have issues with it and fermentability.

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"jhnh1010" post=269569 said:

I could not get mine to move at all still stuck at .020
I just don't understand why it stopped. Tasted my hydrometer sample and it tasted ok.


I'm still very much a noob, so please don't take offense to my stupid question... take it with a grain of salt:

Is it possible that the hydrometer was sitting on the bottom of the test tube and not completely floating?

I only ask because I caught myself in that situation once. The hydrometer would spin freely, but it was just slightly touching bottom. I was a bit too worried about overflowing the test tube. Therefore, the reading would not change even after a couple days of testing. When I finally got a clue and noticed that it wasn't completely bouyant, it was a "lesson learned moment" for me. The beer was ready, I just didn't have enough sample volume for an accurate FG reading.

I'm more conscious of it now. :blush:

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Every time this happened to me I had used a significant amount of store bought LME. Turned out that was the problem. Mr. Beer malt extract seemed to be okay and of course all grain works out fine (too fine in some cases!) but I don't think I'll be using store bought malt extract again unless I have specific need of a brew finishing with a high gravity.

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"TNT" post=269615 said:

"jhnh1010" post=269569 said:

I could not get mine to move at all still stuck at .020
I just don't understand why it stopped. Tasted my hydrometer sample and it tasted ok.


I'm still very much a noob, so please don't take offense to my stupid question... take it with a grain of salt:

Is it possible that the hydrometer was sitting on the bottom of the test tube and not completely floating?

I only ask because I caught myself in that situation once. The hydrometer would spin freely, but it was just slightly touching bottom. I was a bit too worried about overflowing the test tube. Therefore, the reading would not change even after a couple days of testing. When I finally got a clue and noticed that it wasn't completely bouyant, it was a "lesson learned moment" for me. The beer was ready, I just didn't have enough sample volume for an accurate FG reading.

I'm more conscious of it now. :blush:


That could be a problem. I usually tap mine on the top to make sure I've got 1/4 ~ 1/2 inch or so of 'bob' to the hydrometer. Too much trub in the sample can also throw it off, as well as residual carbonation if bubbles are sticking on the bottom pushing it up. I'll let the sample sit for a few minutes then give it a spin to knock off any bubbles before taking a reading.

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No there was enough beer in the tube to float the hydrometer.It is now bottled. I will try different yeast in the next batch and see how it turns out. Thanks to everybody for the advise . I will not post again on this topic until I tastes the final product (Mmmmm BEER!) B)

"jaydubwill" post=269677 said:

"TNT" post=269615 said:

"jhnh1010" post=269569 said:

I could not get mine to move at all still stuck at .020
I just don't understand why it stopped. Tasted my hydrometer sample and it tasted ok.


I'm still very much a noob, so please don't take offense to my stupid question... take it with a grain of salt:

Is it possible that the hydrometer was sitting on the bottom of the test tube and not completely floating?

I only ask because I caught myself in that situation once. The hydrometer would spin freely, but it was just slightly touching bottom. I was a bit too worried about overflowing the test tube. Therefore, the reading would not change even after a couple days of testing. When I finally got a clue and noticed that it wasn't completely bouyant, it was a "lesson learned moment" for me. The beer was ready, I just didn't have enough sample volume for an accurate FG reading.

I'm more conscious of it now. :blush:


That could be a problem. I usually tap mine on the top to make sure I've got 1/4 ~ 1/2 inch or so of 'bob' to the hydrometer. Too much trub in the sample can also throw it off, as well as residual carbonation if bubbles are sticking on the bottom pushing it up. I'll let the sample sit for a few minutes then give it a spin to knock off any bubbles before taking a reading.

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Well cracked one open tonight. A little early and under carbed but tastes alot like Killians not bad....will wait another week and try one more. :chug:

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