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rmoore4556

Brewing tonight...questions

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I'm about to start my third partial mash ever and I have a few dumb questions (Its been awhile :dry: )

I have hops going in at three stages (Bitter, Flavor, Aroma) but only one reusable hop sack. Would it be stupid of me to just fish the thing out each time and add them all to the same sack at their respective times? I think the last couple times I had some throw away muslin sacks so I've never encountered this. I'd rather not go way back to the brewstore lol

Also, there are surely a million different resources on rehydrating dry yeast, but I have yet to try it and am still hesitant. Does this really add to the final product?

Thanks

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Thats what I do when I have different hop additions. I just wrap the end of the muslin sack around the handle of my pot(as long as your handle is away from your flame). Open it as needed and toss in my hops.
I still rehydrate my yeast, the biggest thing Ive noticed is a quicker start of fermenting. Some batches in under 8 hrs

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I've never used a hop sack, so I don't know the right answer to that one. Have you considered just tossing the hops in without using the hop sack?

When you put dry yeast directly into the wort, approximately half of them die. Rehydrating the yeast will give you more viable yeast at the start. You'll still get beer, but you'll probably have better results if you either rehydrate or pitch extra yeast.

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I use a metal clip (like one of those fancy paperclips) to clip the top of my hop sack to the top of my boil kettle. The I just unclip it (carefully since its obviously hot) and add my next stage of hops. As long is your hop sack is big enough to be in the wort and still be clipped or tied to the top of the kettle, I'd go with once of those methods. Kind of a "poor man's" hop spider.

If your hop sack is too small to reach the wort from the top of the kettle, then just toss 'em in commando, piece of cake.

And rehydrating yeast is really a piece of cake. I boil water in a glass measuring cup in the microwave, let it cool to pitching temp, and toss in the yeast. The back of the packet has pretty detailed instructions, if you can mash grain, you can rehydrate yeast, it's a much simpler concept and process.

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I always go commando! It's easier and more fun to say than hop sack.
Just make sure you cold crash that baby before bottling.

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Awesome I'll be rehydrating then. If I were to go without a sack would I need to filter or something or will it settle with the rest of the sediment (I use whirfloc if that matters)? I don't have the ability to cold crash because even if I were to take all the racks out of my fridge it wouldn't fit. I might try to rig the sack to the pot with a paperclip.

I got busy and couldn't brew so I pushed it off to tonight. How long will milled grains last in one of those plastic sealed bags? I hope they haven't lost their potency...

Thanks for the knowledge

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"rmoore4556" post=280773 said:

Awesome I'll be rehydrating then. If I were to go without a sack would I need to filter or something or will it settle with the rest of the sediment (I use whirfloc if that matters)? I don't have the ability to cold crash because even if I were to take all the racks out of my fridge it wouldn't fit. I might try to rig the sack to the pot with a paperclip.

I got busy and couldn't brew so I pushed it off to tonight. How long will milled grains last in one of those plastic sealed bags? I hope they haven't lost their potency...

Thanks for the knowledge

I don't use a hop sack and I don't filter. The hop residue precipitates out and ends up in the trub.

Milled grains slowly lose some of their diastatic power, so it's best to use them as fresh as possible. It's generally best to use them within a couple of weeks, but you should be able to use them after a month or two if they still smell fresh. If you wait too long, you'll want to let your mash run longer to get good conversion (maybe consider doing an iodine test).

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If you do go commando just make sure you cold crash it for at least a day before you bottle.
If you have an auto-siphon and a bottling bucket it's even better because you can really get clear beer since all the hops and trub will be a solid mass at the bottom.

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Brewed last night. Oddly enough, I kind of did both commando/sack. When I went to open the sack and throw in the flavor/aroma hops the two times, most went in but some fell straight into the pot. The thing was too hot to handle well haha.

The only negative aspect of the night was when I pulled the hop sack up and against the pot for the additions some of the wort/hop mixture spilled over the lip and onto my stove. Now, I've had this happen with just wort boiling over. I would just leave a wet paper towel on it and let sit overnight. The stuff would wipe right off. This stuff last night burned on there and is tough. I've scrubbed and even let oxy clean sit on it. Nothing will even make it budge. Any ideas?? (I rent this place :whistle: )

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"rmoore4556" post=280984 said:

Brewed last night. Oddly enough, I kind of did both commando/sack. When I went to open the sack and throw in the flavor/aroma hops the two times, most went in but some fell straight into the pot. The thing was too hot to handle well haha.

The only negative aspect of the night was when I pulled the hop sack up and against the pot for the additions some of the wort/hop mixture spilled over the lip and onto my stove. Now, I've had this happen with just wort boiling over. I would just leave a wet paper towel on it and let sit overnight. The stuff would wipe right off. This stuff last night burned on there and is tough. I've scrubbed and even let oxy clean sit on it. Nothing will even make it budge. Any ideas?? (I rent this place :whistle: )

Try oven cleaner.

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"rmoore4556" post=280984 said:

Brewed last night. Oddly enough, I kind of did both commando/sack. When I went to open the sack and throw in the flavor/aroma hops the two times, most went in but some fell straight into the pot. The thing was too hot to handle well haha.

The only negative aspect of the night was when I pulled the hop sack up and against the pot for the additions some of the wort/hop mixture spilled over the lip and onto my stove. Now, I've had this happen with just wort boiling over. I would just leave a wet paper towel on it and let sit overnight. The stuff would wipe right off. This stuff last night burned on there and is tough. I've scrubbed and even let oxy clean sit on it. Nothing will even make it budge. Any ideas?? (I rent this place :whistle: )


Move!

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Guest

What type stove u have? I have one of those (and I hate it) ceramic top stoves. We get a cleaner specifically for glass tops, takes it right off, with a little elbow grease.

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"bpgreen" post=280626 said:

I've never used a hop sack, so I don't know the right answer to that one. Have you considered just tossing the hops in without using the hop sack?

When you put dry yeast directly into the wort, approximately half of them die. Rehydrating the yeast will give you more viable yeast at the start. You'll still get beer, but you'll probably have better results if you either rehydrate or pitch extra yeast.


+1
Brewed three batches today: Moravian Amber Ale (2.5G), Fat Tyre Clone (2.5G) both with re-hydrated S-33 yeast 11 grams packets; and a Johnny Silk's ESB (2.5G) from MrBeer...used 2 packets MB yeast pitched @ 75*.

Needless to say, the 2 re-hydrated LBK's are cruising with Krauesen already overflowing and the JS ESB is just thinking about working yet. The first 2 batches kicked off within 2 hours of finishing and I do mean kicked off.

Good luck with yours

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