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stevenf

Question about bottling technique

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So in a little more than a week I will be bottling my first batch and I kind of have a process in mind I want to run by you guys. Next Sunday will be three weeks in the LBK for my batch of CAL. I am planning to move the LBK to the fridge for 2 or 3 days, which ever works best for my schedule and bottle it straight from the fridge.

I have ordered a bottling wand from Mr. Beer and was thinking of getting a length of vinyl tubing so I could leave the LBK in the fridge and bottle from the counter a few feet away. I'm not sure if it would be better for the beer to do this or just hook the wand to the the spigot and stand in front of the fridge and do it.

Also do I need to control the flow through the wand with the spigot valve or can I just open it all the way and let the wand control the flow. It's my first time bottling so I need advice.

From what I've read doing the cold crash is a good thing and won't effect the carbonating conditioning phase, correct?

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There is no reason to leave the LBK in the frig. It accomplishes nothing as you now want the beer to warm up. I would not cold crash CAL, you didn't add hops or fruit. You can cold crash, it will let you get a tad more liquid out without trub. I cold crash only fruit beers, and will also cold crash my recent steeps.

You open the spigot all the way, the wand controls flow. Lift it off the bottom of the bottle, flow stops. No extra tubing is needed unless you do batch priming in the future.

Cold crash settles things and solidifies the trub. When you bottle, you then want things to warm up so the yeast can turn the sugar into carbonation. 4 weeks at room temp.

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Got it Rick. I was just thinking that if I could bottle it without disturbing the LBK by taking it out of the fridge and moving it to the counter, then I wouldn't disturb the trub. I do realize that the bottles need 4 weeks at room temp to carbonate and condition.

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A good 2 - 3 days in the fridge should compact the trub cake enough that you should be able to move it without concerns. As long as your not doing the boogy while moving it. The bottles need 4 weeks and to be at room temp. It usually will take a day or two for the beer to come back up to that temp so might as well let it start while bottling.

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When bottling from the LBK, I like to have it on a counter so that I can see into it easily as the level approaches the bottom. By gently tilting it forward while watching through the open top, you can usually fill that last bottle to the top without getting a bunch of trub in the last bottle. It's good that you're using a bottling wand. If I had a single suggestion to make to Mr. Beer regarding the contents of their kits, it would be to include one as a standard item.

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To date I have not cold crashed any of my LBK's prior to bottling. Have not had a problem getting trub in my bottles. Just another data point for you to think about. I hate to tell people what to do but just passing along my experiences so far.

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Well to be honest I'm still trying to decide if I should do the cold crash on my very first batch or two. I have a week to decide. I've been leaning towards doing it but I may change my mind. Thank you all for your input. It's a huge help.

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If you didn't do a bunch of commando hop additions and did it straight up then I would bother with the cold crash. My first two I didn't cold crash and they were just fine. I only cold crash the ones where I have a bunch of additions that might leave things floating that I don't want in my bottles.

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"stevenf" post=351363 said:

I am planning to move the LBK to the fridge for 2 or 3 days, which ever works best for my schedule and bottle it straight from the fridge.

I was thinking of getting a length of vinyl tubing so I could leave the LBK in the fridge and bottle from the counter a few feet away.

From what I've read doing the cold crash is a good thing and won't effect the carbonating conditioning phase, correct?

Cold crashing forces the yeast to drop out of the beer and form a compact trub layer that sticks to the bottom of the LBK, so it doesn't end up in your beer.

After a few days put the LBK on the counter, attach the bottling wand and fill from there.

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If you look at my avatar pic, that is CAL with no cold crash. Unless you do hop/fruit additions in the LBK or are a real stickler for perfectly clear beer, I see no need to do a cold crash.

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Let's be clear, you rarely NEED to cold crash anything - it's a matter of choice/preference.

Will the beer clear up in the bottles after 4 weeks? Yes.
Does cold crashing help make it a little clearer? Yes.
Will it affect carbing? No.


As others have said, feel free to move the LBK to the counter before bottling if you do cold crash it. That little movement isn't going to stir things back up.

If you have a locking spigot, open it all the way up. The push valve on the wand itself allows you to start/stop the flow as you bottle.

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"Kealia" post=352151 said:

Let's be clear, you rarely NEED to cold crash anything - it's a matter of choice/preference.

Will the beer clear up in the bottles after 4 weeks? Yes.
Does cold crashing help make it a little clearer? Yes.
Will it affect carbing? No.


As others have said, feel free to move the LBK to the counter before bottling if you do cold crash it. That little movement isn't going to stir things back up.

If you have a locking spigot, open it all the way up. The push valve on the wand itself allows you to start/stop the flow as you bottle.

Bingo - this is 100% accurate and should give you all the info you need.

Some people swear by cold crashing - I have yet to and all my batches are pretty clear (clear enough).

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"calledthestig" post=352156 said:

"Kealia" post=352151 said:

Let's be clear, you rarely NEED to cold crash anything - it's a matter of choice/preference.

Will the beer clear up in the bottles after 4 weeks? Yes.
Does cold crashing help make it a little clearer? Yes.
Will it affect carbing? No.


As others have said, feel free to move the LBK to the counter before bottling if you do cold crash it. That little movement isn't going to stir things back up.

If you have a locking spigot, open it all the way up. The push valve on the wand itself allows you to start/stop the flow as you bottle.

Bingo - this is 100% accurate and should give you all the info you need.

Some people swear by cold crashing - I have yet to and all my batches are pretty clear (clear enough).

+1

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Guest System Admin

Like I've said many times.....................Brewer's Choice.

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"Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=352276 said:

Like I've said many times.....................Brewer's Choice.

Yeah, Wings, there are plenty of wrong ways to brew, and probably plenty of wrong ways to bottle, but there's no single right way to do either. If it works for you, and you're comfortable with it, The Hat says you're doing it right.

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"Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=352276 said:

Like I've said many times.....................Brewer's Choice.

Well played. :laugh:

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Guest System Admin

Thanks, Ron.

I learned from the Masters.

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