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Dibs

First All Grain BIAB Attempt

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Going to try and do this recipe I found that is Gumballhead-like, but since I don't have a mash tun I'd like to try and do it BIAB if possibe. I had a couple of questions:

1. Since it only calls for about 5 lbs of grain, I'm guessing I can do it in a 12qt. pot since my mash volume should be somwhere around 1.5 gallons?

2. Can I do a continuous sparge instead of a batch sparge? I'm thinking since I will loose some water to grain abosrption, I can just sparge with a tea kettle @ 170 to get the volume over 2 gallons and do my hop boil? If I'm a little short after the boil, I'll just top off with water?

3. Any idea on the conversion from 2.75 to 2.13 (LBK size)? I plan to put it in Beersmith tonight but was just curious what some of you would do with the amount of grain and hops after conversion.

2.75 Gal Batch Size 75% Effeciency
Qbrew says: OG-1.053, FG-1.013, IBU-28, SRM-6

2.50 lbs. 2 Row Pale Malt
2.25 lbs. Red Wheat Malt
8 oz. Caravienne
Mash 1.25 qts./lb. Mash 60 min @ 154* Batch sparge 10 min @ 170*.

All Amarillo (8.2% AA).
.25 oz. FWH 60 min.
.25 oz. 15 min.
.50 oz. 5 min.
.50 oz. 1 min.
1.5 oz. Dry Hopped 5-7 Days

SafAle US-05 Ferment at 66*.

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"Dibs" post=381363 said:

Going to try and do this recipe I found that is Gumballhead-like, but since I don't have a mash tun I'd like to try and do it BIAB if possibe. I had a couple of questions:

1. Since it only calls for about 5 lbs of grain, I'm guessing I can do it in a 12qt. pot since my mash volume should be somwhere around 1.5 gallons?

For BIAB you will need more water or you will get VERY low efficiency 20% -30%. I know. I tired what you are talking about and it doesn't work. For my equipment and a Mr. Beer sized batch I start with a bit more then 3.5 gallons of strike water.

I once did a Mr. Beer sized BIAB batch in a 16 quart (4 gallon) pot and I made a mess. I now use a 6 gallon pot for 2.4 gallon BIAB batches and I would recommend at least a 5 gallon pot.

Here is a link to a 2.5 gallon BIAB Guide that I personally found very helpful.

"Dibs" post=381363 said:


2. Can I do a continuous sparge instead of a batch sparge? I'm thinking since I will loose some water to grain abosrption, I can just sparge with a tea kettle @ 170 to get the volume over 2 gallons and do my hop boil? If I'm a little short after the boil, I'll just top off with water?

I might be confused, but you don't do a "sparge" as such with traditional BIAB. You start with the full volume of water. You can do a mash out by bringing the water to 170 and leaving it at that temp for 10 minutes before you start a boil. You can try to do a combo BIAB/ with Sparge, but personally I haven't had much luck with that method.

You are correct that if you end up short of your volume you top off before you pitch your yeast.

"Dibs" post=381363 said:


3. Any idea on the conversion from 2.75 to 2.13 (LBK size)? I plan to put it in Beersmith tonight but was just curious what some of you would do with the amount of grain and hops after conversion.


Since your recipe calls for 75% efficiency, the difference is small and this is your first BIAB, I would be tempted to leave it as is and assume a lower efficiency. If you want to adjust, Beersmith has a tool to help you or just do the math.

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You'll probably fall in love with BIAB. I know I did. I'll try to give one take on your questions and hopefully others will also provide more info too.

1- Tight but can be done. With the 1.5 gallons water and 5 lbs of grain, you'll have a pretty full 12 qt pot there for the mash. But it's just sitting there, not boiling, so it should be okay.

2- That's basically what I do, and it's been working just fine. After pulling the bag of grain out, I put it in colander and sparge with water from a saucepan. I rinse the bag of grains until I have the volume of wort that I want for my hop boil.

If you want to end up with approximately 2.5 gallons of wort for the LBK, you'd start out with about 3 gallons for the boil, which would surely overflow in the 3 gallon pot. What I do for that is start out with between 2 and 2.5 gallons of wort, boil a little slower to discourage overflow, and add just a bit of water periodically as it evaporates. Then, if necessary, I top off in the LBK when done.

3- As far as the conversion from 2.75 to LBK, I would fill that LBK up above the top of the Q and get my 2.5 gallons, and I wouldn't even worry about converting the recipe. If everything goes perfect, my beer might be 10% heavier in body, flavor and ABV than intended, but it's more likely that I'll lose a tiny bit of efficiency along the line and end up where I need to be anyway. Either way, I'm satisfied.

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Check out this video from Northern Brewer on how to BIAB.

.

It was very helpful when I did my BIAB. The thing about BIAB is you are basically steeping your whole grain bill in the full volume of water. You don't want to sparge, it kind of defeats the purpose of the BIAB process.

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Joe is correct though... The only possible way to make a 12qt pot work is to mash, then fly sparge.

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