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Vakko

My high abv batch hasn't carbed

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Made an Imperial IPA with 1.100 OG and 11gr S-05 yeast.  It's been about 10 days since bottle and there's barely any resistance when I squeeze my PET bottles.

 

I know someone will say to wait longer but here's the thing: I bottled another beer on the same day and it is stored in the same place.  Those bottles are rock hard.

 

The issue is, because it's an IPA, I don't want the freshness of the dry hop to waste away while I'm waiting for the bottles to firm up... if they ever do.

 

I know they're all primed correctly so I'm considering them and sprinkling some yeast.

 

Ideas?  Or just wait and hope that the aroma doesn't fade too much?

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Your yeast had to go through a lot of sugar and is probably tired. Just give it time. Higher ABV beers tend to take longer to carbonate. The hop degradation will be minimal. You probably won't even notice.

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You already know so I won't insult your intelligence. I'd be worried about the hop profile too. Not 100% sure but the 05 should be able to tolerate the ABV no problem. Maybe its like JoshR said & your just whipping em too hard.

Since its just for carbing a beer you wanna drink kinda green, ya might try champagne or distiller's yeast. Its way more tolerant than ale. I use it for my.. uh.. um.. ethanol production.

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Right on brotha BeastYeast, tell it! Run some high octane through that monster, #@$% yeah!! Who's ya daddy?!

Sorry... I missed my NASCAR this week. Got a little excited there for a minute. Lol?

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I would have made a starter for that bad boy...2 stage.

There's no need when using the S-05 yeast. Those packages are intended for up to 6 gallon batches. Not only that, but each package of yeast has double the amount of cells that liquid yeast has. For a large beer like this, the only thing I would have done differently is add some yeast nutrient. If I was doing liquid yeast, I'd definitely make a starter, but the dry packs have at least 5x the amount of yeast needed for a 2 gallon batch. 

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There's no need when using the S-05 yeast. Those packages are intended for up to 6 gallon batches. Not only that, but each package of yeast has double the amount of cells that liquid yeast has. For a large beer like this, the only thing I would have done differently is add some yeast nutrient. If I was doing liquid yeast, I'd definitely make a starter, but the dry packs have at least 5x the amount of yeast needed for a 2 gallon batch. 

How does yeast nutrient work?  I've heard that the No-Rinse becomes a nutrient...

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No-rinse is NOT a nutrient, it's a sanitizer. It will kill your yeast if you try feeding them with it. Let me refer you to John Palmer:

http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-1.html

LOL wasn't meaning that you pour in some sanitizer...

But it's been said that you don't worry about residue left behind on a no rinse when brewing because the yeast will consume the particles.

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No, they don't consume the particles. You don't need to rinse the No-Rinse because when it dissolves in water, it essentially becomes hydrogen peroxide. It simply evaporates, in most cases. The yeast don't metabolize it in any way.

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How does yeast nutrient work?  I've heard that the No-Rinse becomes a nutrient...

The wyeast nutrient blend is awesome and I highly recommend it. For $2.50 it'll last you forever at 1/4 teaspoon per dose. Just watch your fermentation temps because even at the lower spectrum of the yeast temp you will need a blow off. If in the LBK feel your keg for firmness as the ports may get clogged. I had to open mine yesterday to release some build up on this little guy...and that's with fermcaps drops.

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It is a great nutrient. White Labs Servomyces is also great, but it's quite expensive in comparison. I also enjoy using Fermcap. It's a great product for foam control. And before I get accused of promoting products to make a profit, like the Iodophor I raved about in another thread, Mr. Beer doesn't sell these products. I'm merely speaking from personal experience.

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Whatever JoshR you probably get royalties... no better than a politician! Lol j/k

I've been wondering about using it in rehydrating yeast just as cheap insurance but not sure if it's sanitary.

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I've seen JoshR's tax returns and he's clearly living outside of his means...

 

I see an audit coming soon, sir!

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I see some sites say that you can use old or unwanted yeast as "yeast nutrients" if you throw the old stuff into the boil first to kill it. Is this true?

 

I am brewing Mr. B's Novacaine recipe this coming Wednesday, and this was to be my plan, as I was going to use  US-05 as my yeast.

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Yes, that's true.  Also totally unnecessary for any of the Mr. Beer recipes.

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I see some sites say that you can use old or unwanted yeast as "yeast nutrients" if you throw the old stuff into the boil first to kill it. Is this true?

 

I am brewing Mr. B's Novacaine recipe this coming Wednesday, and this was to be my plan, as I was going to use  US-05 as my yeast.

10 Min boil. If you're going to use another yeast than why not. Better that you put it to use than hoarding packets of Mr. Beer Yeast as "unnecessary" as it is. Maybe JoshR will start a Sell Back Program where you get store credit for sending in the unused packets that come under the lid!!!?! :lol:

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The Novacaine looks like it will clock in over 10%ABV, so I am going with some nutrients for my yeast.

 

 ;)

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Yes, that's true.  Also totally unnecessary for any of the Mr. Beer recipes.

 

Malt extract provides sugar, protein, and a few minerals. Yeast nutrient adds lipids, vitamins, and other things needed for optimal growth not found in the extract or wort. It may not be needed, but it is definitely a positive step towards making better beer. I always use nutrients regardless of ABV. The exception to this is if you're using Wyeast. They come with nutrients already included in the yeast pack. I highly recommend nutrients if you have a wort that is heavy on the adjuncts (dextrose, Booster, honey, etc). These adjuncts are devoid of beneficial nutrients/minerals. 

Here's a handy chapter on nutrients from John Palmer's online book. He always has a better way of explaining things than I do:  http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-1.html

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I use it for my.. uh.. um.. ethanol production.

 

I'd love to try making ethanol  :rolleyes:

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Possible the yeast was exposed to high heat? or other extreme environment change that retards their natural energy.

 

Perhaps a nutrient charge with a liquid yeast boost is needed. Hmmmmm! Any ingredients have preservatives?

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I'd love to try making ethanol  :rolleyes:

So would everyone else... damn you Carter!  Why only beer and wine?

 

Every person having in his possession or custody, or under his control, any still or distilling apparatus set up, shall register such still or apparatus with the Secretary immediately on its being set up, by subscribing and filing with the Secretary a statement, in writing, setting forth the particular place where such still or distilling apparatus is set up, the kind of still and its capacity, the owner thereof, his place of residence, and the purpose for which said still or distilling apparatus has been or is intended to be used (except that stills or distilling apparatus not used or intended to be used for the distillation, redistillation, or recovery of distilled spirits are not required to be registered under this section).

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So would everyone else... damn you Carter!  Why only beer and wine?

 

Every person having in his possession or custody, or under his control, any still or distilling apparatus set up, shall register such still or apparatus with the Secretary immediately on its being set up, by subscribing and filing with the Secretary a statement, in writing, setting forth the particular place where such still or distilling apparatus is set up, the kind of still and its capacity, the owner thereof, his place of residence, and the purpose for which said still or distilling apparatus has been or is intended to be used (except that stills or distilling apparatus not used or intended to be used for the distillation, redistillation, or recovery of distilled spirits are not required to be registered under this section).

Yeah and I'm only suppose to brew 200 gal a year. As long as you ain't selling it they won't be looking for you.

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If you need to get that torn,

 

Go away from the brew site. Ebay sells stills 24/7.

 

There is a time and place for self destruction, If you are in the Brew Family life substains.

 

Cheers

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It's legal to distill as long as it's for "fuel" only. ;)

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I does help me keep going some nights, so I guess I must be using it as fuel

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I'd love to try making ethanol :rolleyes:

It's probably a lot easier than you might think, brybry, & (no offense to MrB) cheaper than brewing beer. In fact, you probably have everything in your kitchen right now to complete the whole process of making 1/5 of a gallon..
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i would like to get hold of an alembic and retort so I could take my crappy tasting hobo wine and turn it into brandy. note to self...never mix apple juice and welches when making hobo wine.

 

I made a mead that hit 18% once... the tolerance on the yeast said 14% but bless their hearts the little buggers put out 18% according to all math.  

 

for nutrients when I am feeling particularily gracious , I dissolve a qtr of a centrum vitamin in a quart of boiled water... that I also cooked some unlucky sacrificial yeast in. the yeast go positively nuts for the stuff.. more than raisins.

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I would suggest relaxing and smoking a spliff until the beer has carbonated, conditioned and is ready to drink.

Not that I've ever done that but I've heard that it helps

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Added some Mr.B yeast with a tiny bit of sugar... boom! pow! carb'd right up.  <ponder>  :huh:

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