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Tinkering with the Winter Dark Ale

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So, enough of us bought some of these when they were half-price, seems fair to start a thread showing off what we're gonna do with them, or to ask questions about what we could do with them.

 

Such as... if one were to tinker with the hops a little bit, what variety(-ties) would you use to accent this beer, say for a dry-hop or even a flameout addition?

 

 :)

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I would boil 1/2 oz Summit hops (or Columbus) with a Robust LME (for color) and a Golden LME (for head retention and body) in 6-8 cups of water for 60 minutes, then add my malt and either 1/2 oz of Falconer's Flight or Simcoe at flameout. Then I'd dry-hop with 1/2 oz FF or Simcoe for 5-7 days. And I'd pitch US-05 yeast. I would also add 1/2 tsp of gypsum to my water (adds sulfate which will enhance the hop profile and the calcium acts as a yeast nutrient). This would make a nice "Cascadian Dark Ale" (aka, "Black IPA"....ugh....I hate that term...).

 

EDIT: I might add 1/2 Simcoe at 20-30 mins in the boil, too.

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What do you think about Topaz hops?

 

Description:

Typical Alpha 15-18%. An old standby in the Australian bittering hop program, but recently being treated more for it's aroma potential. Rich and intense aroma of fleshy citrus and apricot, with a strong "dank" overtone and a hint of sulfur. Very similar to Summit, Apollo, and Columbus, but with a softer citrus edge - also similar to Amarillo.

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Great for bittering. It's a great hop for an IPA or pale ale, but I wouldn't use it in my CDA. Too fruity.

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Thanks! Really, I am looking to get 1 ounce of hops to do a hop-stand with this can of HME, just to give it some "presence".

 

Maybe I'll just go with the Falconer's Flight.

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I would boil 1/2 oz Summit hops (or Columbus) with a Robust LME (for color) and a Golden LME (for head retention and body) in 6-8 cups of water for 60 minutes, then add my malt and either 1/2 oz of Falconer's Flight or Simcoe at flameout. Then I'd dry-hop with 1/2 oz FF or Simcoe for 5-7 days. And I'd pitch US-05 yeast. I would also add 1/2 tsp of gypsum to my water (adds sulfate which will enhance the hop profile and the calcium acts as a yeast nutrient). This would make a nice "Cascadian Dark Ale" (aka, "Black IPA"....ugh....I hate that term...).

 

EDIT: I might add 1/2 Simcoe at 20-30 mins in the boil, too.

Wow what a recipe! I thought I was really doing something just adding 8oz of amber dme. Mine should be ready for bottling Sep 5th.

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I must be in the minority because to me the Winter Dark alone is already too hoppy. 

I will probably add 8 oz carmel 20 steeped, and 1/2 lb amber malt.

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I must be in the minority because to me the Winter Dark alone is already too hoppy. 

I will probably add 8 oz carmel 20 steeped, and 1/2 lb amber malt.

 

Yeah, with these hop additions, it should get up to around 100 IBUs, but that's how I like it.

 

I wouldn't go with 8 oz Crystal 20, I'd go with 4 oz instead. But if you like it sweeter, go with 8 oz. The amber malt won't do much in a regular steep. It needs to be mashed at 150-160 for 30 mins.

 

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I must be in the minority because to me the Winter Dark alone is already too hoppy.

 

I wasn't looking to add IBUs. One of the things I hear (and agree with) about MrB HMEs is that the hops aren't really present for flavour & aroma, just for bittering. I am looking to add flavour & aroma, with hops that are "to style" with this kind of beer. That's all.

 

JoshR, on the other hand... :lol:

 

But overall, this thread is for everyone, to share whatever they are doing (although some recipes might be in the "advanced" category) and to hopefully see how they turn out months from now.

 

I am brewing next Friday, so I have a bit before I need to turn anything out.

 

 )

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I have two cans I bought during the $5 sale. I have not tried the winter dark yet, but I was thinking about some bottles straight up and adding some flavor extracts to some. Would maybe vanilla or chocolate work with this beer or would that be weird?

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See, that's the kind of thing I want to know as well. This doesn't seem to be a porter or stout, it's just a hoppy, dark ale.

 

Steep some chocolate malt, throw some cacao nibs & a vanilla bean in some bourbon, that kind of thing sounds interesting!

 

 :)

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I really think it's warped to tinkle with Winter Dark Ale.  For crying out loud, can't you put the glass down for a few minutes while you go tinkle?  Freakin' disgusting, drinking a beer while tinkling.

 

What?  Tinkering, not tinkling?  Oh.

 

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I did a maple bacon beer candi syrup addition to mine. Tasted good after 2 months but no bacon, just maple flavour so far. Gonna be patients hope it comes in.Think it will be great if it does..something to concider if you want something a little different.

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sold one can of the dark stuff to my buddy who's newly hooked on mr. beer products, also gave him a lb of tradional dark dme, to add half b4 adding the hme. even sold him another one of my lbk's for 5 bucks so he can have overlap. sold him my last can of Belgian spiced ale. so he's sittin pretty good. I on the other hand, gonna do a cda straight up to determine what i'll do with the other 5 cans I have.

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I made mine with added 8 oz of  Munton's dark DME and  Mangrove Jack Newcastle Dark Ale yeast.

It started up quickly, now just simmering as it goes through its 3 weeks fermenting.

I have 2 more to experiment with, and some Spiced Christmas Ale (from 8/2014) still in bottle from last batch with this.

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So, should I go ahead and add 1/2# of DME and some Carapils to this? Seems to be what all the cool kids would do...

 

 :lol:

 

I am planning on using my Nottingham yeast on this, too. I have a healthy pitch ready in the fridge, and still have half the dry packet in the freezer.

 

Anyone that's made it straight up, does it need Carapils for head retention?

 

Also, what about specialty steeping grains? Even mini-mashes? What grains might one add?

 

 :)

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i thot of addong sum dark roasted barely to mine since ive got sum crushed and ready to go, u ever try roasted barely? slym?

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I have not, but the last few beers I have made have been dark (have an RIS cold-crashing right now) so I want to stay away from that for this beer, personally. Not that anyone else shouldn't try it, should they have the desire to do so.

 

 :)

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I am now thinking of a 1# mini-mash for this beer, using either Maris Otter or Victory malt.

 

Hmm...

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I was intending mine to come out like a somewhat darker more bitter Newcastle Brown Ale  (Newcastle Black Ale ??)

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I'd just like something that isn't so English in the hops area... no Palisade, Fuggles, EKG, Williamette, those kinds of flavours.

 

Looking through what is available at my LHBS, I am leaning towards Azzaca, Cluster, or FF7Cs.

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So, stay near the IPA-type hops for this?

 

I am brewing on Friday... just trying to get my ideas going, and to keep this thread alive.

 

  :ph34r:

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i have sum chocolate malt and coffee malt curious about tryin out with one can, along with sum of that roasted barley

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I'm planning on starting mine over labor day weekend. Unless I manage to not have to work this Saturday. I m gonna ferment the first batch straight up then play with some extracts at bottling time.

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OK, getting down to crunch-time. I am going with FF7Cs to hop this thing up some, but I beg of you, anyone who has brewed the WDA straight up: do I need to add some Carapils for head retention? Or is the beer good enough on its own in that department?

 

 kYa5t0z.gif

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I do a half ounce, falconers flight pretty potent hop!, I was needing a more citrus taste to my tangerine wheat, bcuz all I cud taste was wheat.... so I mixed a half ounce falconers/cascade/and glacier let it hop for three days in the 2nd fermentor and I got what I needed!

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I also got the Winter Dark ale deal. It was the first Beer I made when I got my kit last year as a gift, and still my favorite.I just did my first can from the sale and was wondering what I could do different with the other 2 cans. Something simple. I have some Cascade hops from Mr.Beer store in my fridge....can I use those?

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Hoppy, I am using all hops in a hop-stand. I want potent flavour & aroma! Plus, I have used the 7Cs before in an IPA and liked the way they tasted (though mixed with some straight Centennial).

 

That being said, I'll stick with just one ounce. I am definitely adding some Carapils to steep, and might just get a pound of wheat DME and throw half of that in there as well.

 

Danny - I'd say, sure, Cascade works! You might even want to throw in some orange peel, and if you like spices, hints (hints!) of nutmeg, cinnamon, and coriander might work as well for one experiment. For the other, go with some chocolate malt to steep, maybe a pound of Maris Otter in a mini-mash, and then use coffee & cacao nibs the last few days before bottling/kegging. Make it a true winter warmer and add some bourbon to that!

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So it all depends. It will be a nice rich beer with dark fruits and layered flavors even if you brew it straight up. I found it good to sip on as it warms up and see the flavor progressions.

If you did not try it standard recipe - do that first - then see what you want to change.

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Well, tonight I boiled up two gallons of water, added 1 pound of wheat DME (something about half-empty bags annoy me, so I was going to use 1/2 pound but ended up using the whole pound), added 1/4 oz of Columbus hops to a short boil, stirred in the WDA HME, then used a whole ounce of FF7Cs in a 45-minute long hops-stand that started at 180 degrees and ended at 172, nothing but slapping a lid on the pot and letting it sit on the stove.

 

Weirdly enough, my OG was 1.060. If the Notty can get this down to 1.012, I am looking at 6.2% - I was hoping to see 7.5% or so, seeing how I put a whole pound of DME on top of a craft HME. Oh well, I am not really disappointed, as this means the beer will condition faster!

 

 :)

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Weirdly enough, my OG was 1.060. If the Notty can get this down to 1.012, I am looking at 6.2% - I was hoping to see 7.5% or so, seeing how I put a whole pound of DME on top of a craft HME. Oh well, I am not really disappointed, as this means the beer will condition faster!

:)

Odd that you mention this. I just did a batch of Bewitched Amber Ale last week with 3/4# of wheat DME and got an O.G. of 1.055. I had put this recipe together in Qbrew and it showed an O.G. of 1.070.

???

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I know I am getting 1.7% ABV out of 1# of DME in 2.4 gallons of water. If the WDA is supposed to be 5% minimum, and with my 1/4# of added Carapils, then I should have had an OG of around 1.072 with the Notty finishing it up around 1.020

 

Hmm...

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well I just had a slight 2 hour window sunday morning b4 its off to sleep b4 work tonight, so I went ahead with a test WDA, i'll see how it goes after done,

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I just brewed up a batch of Winter Ale. Boiled Robust LME with 1oz Columbus hops, a pack of booster, 4 oz of carapils/steeped water for 28 minutes. Using the yeast that came with the ale. Hope it turns out good, should be flavorful. OG was 1.068. Wanted to add some mulling spices, but didn't have anything on hand.

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I just brewed up a batch of Winter Ale. Boiled Robust LME with 1oz Columbus hops, a pack of booster, 4 oz of carapils/steeped water for 28 minutes. Using the yeast that came with the ale. Hope it turns out good, should be flavorful. OG was 1.068. Wanted to add some mulling spices, but didn't have anything on hand.

 

I am really confuzzled... you got a higher OG reading than I did, and I used more malt...

 

 *tears out hanks of hair from his head*

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so, somewhat of a tangent, but still the WDA.  I had planned to do a Defibillator dopplebock with the last can I have.  I think I want to use an actual lager yeast on this.  I have a German Dopplebock in the queue and why not have two lagers going if the fridge is set to 50F!  From searches, seems W-34/70 is the favorite.  

 

Anyone tried this, or used S-23 with WDA?  

 

Searches show a Defibrillator V7.0 that some have used the lager yeast, but haven't seen anything on results... 

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An update on my concoction - used the washed (3rd gen) Notty yeast on this beer, and all four other batches kicked off action somewhere in the 38-42 hour range. I am now in the 50+ hour spread and starting to get a little worried. I know, I still have a good day before the "wait 72 hours" rule is up, but this batch isn't following what its brothers have done, so pardons if I sweat it out a little.

 

  :(

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I am really confuzzled... you got a higher OG reading than I did, and I used more malt...

 

 *tears out hanks of hair from his head*

 Only thing I really see is you're using a little more water than me, I'm probably right at 2.1G.  I did use a pack of booster though.

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Hmm, reading these post on OG and FG measurements and the variations, Maybe I am just as well off to continue as I have been and not measure it.

Then I am not confused - if it has been fermenting with good foam and been in there 3 weeks, and is no longer foaming, I am happy and will bottle it.

I don't care how many points the ABV is, I only care what it tastes like. (Although I suppose I do have to try out the new hydrometer  just bought , Oh Well.....)

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Already plenty hoppy for me.  I just add a pound of DME, ferment for 3 weeks; condition for 5 and it's excellent.

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Plenty hoppy enough for me too (I could even use less)  but I miss the aroma that is why I dry hop add.

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I'mma dry-hop mine with a little Columbus.

 

Did I mention elsewhere it took about 68 hours for signs of life to appear in this batch? At 68 hours, there was a small, thin raft of bubbles in the middle of the LBK, and I finally got started with the ice-bottles for real - it was as still as glass in there before that. Dropped ambient air temps from 65 to 58 in 4 hours, by which time I had a 1/2" thick layer of bubbles across the top. Nice, foamy bubbles happening as we speak, holding a steady 60 degrees F.

 

  ^_^

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yea mine started off slow to, so I stirred it up again very vigorously and it seem to do the trick. like I said this is test batch, then ill probably do a 5 gal  with different yeast, maybe thinking of the t-58

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So, I made a hop-stand out of an ounce of FF7Cs, and boiled 1/4 oz. of Columbus for 20 minutes to add some IBUs to make up for the pound of wheat DME I added. I am thinking of getting another ounce of 7Cs and using half of it plus another 1/4 oz. of Columbus for a dry-hop.

 

Comments? Suggestions? Sour grapes? Throw them in here!

 

 :)

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I was intending mine to come out like a somewhat darker more bitter Newcastle Brown Ale (Newcastle Black Ale ??)

Nick,

I have been thinking about this ever since you posted this comment, as I really like Newcastle Brown ale. I think I might have come up with something workable, let's see what everyone thinks.

Winter Dark Newastle Brown ale

2.86 lbs. Winter Dark HME

3.00 lbs Briess Traditional Dark DME

1 oz. UK fuggles hops (added as a hop stand)

S-04 yeast

5 gallon batch size

OG: 1.052

FG: 1.013

SRM: 26°L

IBU: 27

ABV: 5.0%

Numbers derived from Qbrew Ver. 0.4.1

As you can see, the hop bitterness has been brought way down from the original Winter dark value (low 60's) to something more closely resembling a brown ale. The color is just slightly higher than style for a brown ale. This may be my next batch after the Pumpkin Spiced CAL.

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Dark DME is app. 3% Black Malt. You could up that yourself, to make the colour darker, and you could even cold-steep it (or any other black roasted grains) if you are worried about any roasty flavours coming through.

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Dark DME is app. 3% Black Malt. You could up that yourself, to make the colour darker, and you could even cold-steep it (or any other black roasted grains) if you are worried about any roasty flavours coming through.

I'm actually not worried about any roast flavors. I'm looking to tame the hoppy nature of the WDA and make something more along the line of a brown ale. That combination of dark DME and the WDA in a 5 gallon batch lends itself to just the right color.

Not to mention that I happen to have 3lbs of dark DME lying around waiting to be used.

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ScouterBIll,

 

WDA is claimed to be         Newcastle Brown

ABV (alc/vol): 5.5%            now 4.7 -  original 6.25 %

SRM (Color): 30                 various estimates 17 - 23

IBU (Bitterness): 60           25

 

So it may be a bit too bitter even without adding hops.

Adding nutty flavor malt will help, and a low attenutation yeast  will keep it on the sweeter side.

I probably should have added a lighter malt.

 

 

See below.

 

 

 

Newcastle Brown from Wikipedia:

The original beer had an original gravity of 1060º and was 6.25 ABV.

Now, various sources claim it to be 4.7 ABV

Newcastle Brown Ale is brewed with pale malt and crystal malt. It has a lower hopping rate than traditional English bitters.

 

This claims IBU = 25 supporting the lower hopping. So I would not add hops to WDA, I would just add malt to get to the right color/flavor and ABV

http://www.jbspourhouse.com/beers/newcastle-brown-ale/

 

Style

http://www.craftbeer.com/styles/english-style-brown-ale

 

 

So adding malt will increase ABV and reduce hoppiness taste - to get to 6.25 ABV , from 5.5 you would need 6-8 oz malt extract and whatever would make nutty flavor. 

So that is why I put in the Muntons dark.

 

I used the Mangrove Jack Newcastle yeast because of its name, and claim to produce

A top fermenting ale yeast suitable for a variety of hearty British ales, promoting exceptional body and flavour. Ferments with full, rich dark fruit flavours. - See more at: http://mangrovejacks.com/collections/craft-series-yeasts/products/uk-dark-ale-yeast#sthash.fn9zOsn4.dpuf

 

Another source

(BY620-M03) Newcastle Dark Ale Yeast successfully brings classic cask ale production into the homebrew or craft setting. This is a top-fermentation strain well suited for fermenting British ales, particularly dark and full bodied ales, mild brown ales and Scottish Heavy ales. Selected to not over attenuate, this strain will stop short of the low end gravities exhibited by other yeast strains. Dark fruity esters are pronounced when fermented at the appropriate temperature. Care should be taken to adjust hop bitterness to ensures it suits the ester character and complements the fuller bodied finish. Flocculation: Medium Attenuation: Medium Temperature Range: 64-72° F (18-22° C) Net Package Weight 10 grams

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I don't see WDA becoming Newcastle under any circumstances.

Great clone of Bell's Best Brown here, and here is Newcastle.

Newcastle uses 8 oz Special Roast, 2 oz Chocolate, 2 oz Crystal 60 on 6lbs of pale with Challenger and EKG. Bell's Best Brown uses 1 lb Crystal 60 1 lb Special Roast, 1 lb Victory, 3 oz Chocolate on top of 7.2 lbs of pale and Cascade and Willamette. It is delicious. Both are for 5 gallons.

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I was intending mine to come out like a somewhat darker, more bitter Newcastle Brown Ale  (Newcastle Black Ale ??)

 

He wasn't trying to clone Newkie Brown, guys.

 

 ;)

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Well, He may be closer than I thought since he is using one can WDA in a 5 gal recipe. (Duh just noticed 5 gal)

And I am using 1 can in 2.5 gal - despite the Newcastle yeast - so I will be way too bitter..

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Tried the sampler of what I made after 6 days. Quite drinkable, and nice flavor with hints of choc. Did not seem anywhere near 60 IBU.

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I can't wait to bottle mine on Thursday night, just to see what the FG is, and to drink the gravity sample.

 

 ;)

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I don't see WDA becoming Newcastle under any circumstances.

 

 I got close quite by accident with my last DWA.  I added light DME and for the first time it over flowed the LBK for three days.  So much foamed out I feared the beer would be ruined.  I let it ferment for four weeks.  When I bottled there was very little sediment at the bottom and I was sure it was ruined.  After six weeks of conditioning I tried a bottle and too my surprise it was quite good.  Not the Dark Winter Ale, but something close to a Brown Castle or typical British Ale.  Just slightly more hoppy than a Newcastle, but otherwise close in flavor.  

 

Now, I have created a Newcastle clone using a Muntons Nut Brown Ale as as base.

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I was listening to irish jigs and bagpipes, and for moment I felt like a leprechaun dancing around while playing a flute, after drinking a bottle of that ol' helles bock at ya, I realize i'm still dancing like a lepreekhan and flute turns out to be the toilet plunger......so what was this thread about?

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 I got close quite by accident with my last DWA.  I added light DME and for the first time it over flowed the LBK for three days.  So much foamed out I feared the beer would be ruined.  I let it ferment for four weeks.  When I bottled there was very little sediment at the bottom and I was sure it was ruined.  After six weeks of conditioning I tried a bottle and too my surprise it was quite good.  Not the Dark Winter Ale, but something close to a Brown Castle or typical British Ale.  Just slightly more hoppy than a Newcastle, but otherwise close in flavor.  

 

 

 

Ahh, adding Light DME. I'll have to try that, my last WDA I added 8oz Amber DME. It should be ready to drink Oct. 3rd, so I see how it turns out.

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I would argue that no matter what you add - light, dark - you raise the chances of overflow.  A key to avoiding / minimizing overflow is TEMPERATURE.  Last batch I did with Nottingham yeast overflowed at 66.  This time I did 62.  Very minimal overflow.

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I would argue that no matter what you add - light, dark - you raise the chances of overflow.  A key to avoiding / minimizing overflow is TEMPERATURE.  Last batch I did with Nottingham yeast overflowed at 66.  This time I did 62.  Very minimal overflow.

 

I think temperature might have been the problem, aside from putting in more DME than I usually do.  I've got a similar batch fermenting now and I put it in my big 6 gallon Coopers fermenter to keep it from overflowing.  So far, so good.

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I can see Munton's Nut Brown coming close.

 

I dressed it up with steeping grains and hops and it came out quite nice.

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I know my 6 day old sample of WDA with  Newcastle yeast and dark DME was nice but now I am forced to buy some real Newcastle Brn to do a taste test. Horrors!

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I would argue that no matter what you add - light, dark - you raise the chances of overflow.  A key to avoiding / minimizing overflow is TEMPERATURE.  Last batch I did with Nottingham yeast overflowed at 66.  This time I did 62.  Very minimal overflow.

 

Yep - I added an entire pound of wheat DME to my WDA, used Notty, kept the wort between 62-64° F, and had no overflow.

 

 :)

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I was listening to irish jigs and bagpipes, and for moment I felt like a leprechaun dancing around while playing a flute, after drinking a bottle of that ol' helles bock at ya, I realize i'm still dancing like a lepreekhan and flute turns out to be the toilet plunger......so what was this thread about?

NEVER.... And I repeat NEVER do something you will have to explain to a paramedic.. :)

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ok I did sumthing this morning during my drunken stooper, opened the lbk of the WDA and threw in maybe 5 or 6 vanilla bourbon soaked oak chips ive had extras leftover in a jar. I even chewed on a piece and it was quite tasty and smooth. they were small tiny chips

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Bottled my lightly messed-with concoction tonight. Notty got this all the way down to 1.011 for an ABV of 6.4%. The taste... well, it's a dark ale, and very hoppy indeed! Not just bitter, the Columbus really comes through overall even though I used much less. We'll see what it's like when it's carbed up after a while. I went a little aggressive this time, 3/4 tsp. sugar in each bottle.

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Just brewed Defibrillator Doppelbock with it. Stuck to the recipe, as it was my 3rd batch. But I am looking forward to learning more about brewing beer and the creative ideas you all have.

 
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I don't know what you guys do - I have not had one overflow yet in several years with 2-4 all going at once the whole time.  You must be putting a large amount of other stuff in on top of the Mr Beer recipe.

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My WDA was the first MrB HME I have used since my Helluva IPA. My first overflow was the Oktoberbeast, a partial-grain with mini-mash recipe that turned out to have 9.2% ABV's worth of "stuff" in it, and I used Nottingham yeast, which is known for its fast and sometimes "violent" fermentations.  It really only burped a little, like when a baby spits up instead of vomits.

 

Since then, it has "spit up" on me once more, but I've never had a true overflow. I think RickBeer puts 2.5 gallons in his LBKs, and I keep it a little lower at 2.4 gallons, and if so, that may be why he gets some real action there.

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I would boil 1/2 oz Summit hops (or Columbus) with a Robust LME (for color) and a Golden LME (for head retention and body) in 6-8 cups of water for 60 minutes, then add my malt and either 1/2 oz of Falconer's Flight or Simcoe at flameout. Then I'd dry-hop with 1/2 oz FF or Simcoe for 5-7 days. And I'd pitch US-05 yeast. I would also add 1/2 tsp of gypsum to my water (adds sulfate which will enhance the hop profile and the calcium acts as a yeast nutrient). This would make a nice "Cascadian Dark Ale" (aka, "Black IPA"....ugh....I hate that term...).

EDIT: I might add 1/2 Simcoe at 20-30 mins in the boil, too.

I'm looking to brew this for my next batch. How much Golden LME and Robust LME should I use?

Edit: I have two 1.3kg cans of WDA HME, two soft packs (8.81 oz) of robust LME and about 20 oz of Briess Golden LME already on hand. All I have to do is purchase the yeast and hops. Would this be enough to make a five gallon batch???

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I would say that's perfect, Sabres! Maybe a little more Golden DME than Josh would call for (by doubling his recipe) but only by 4 ounces or so.

 

If you do it, let us know how it goes! I can't wait until mine are carbed up, I know there's a good bit of hops in mine as it is (a little Columbus in a 20-minute boil to balance out the DME I added, 1 oz FF7Cs in a hop-stand, & dry-hopped with a little Columbus).

 

Personally, for this double-batch, I'd stick with boiling just 1/2 an ounce of hops (go with Columbus) for the 60 minutes. Then, go with a full 2 ounces of hops (your choice) in a hop-stand, & then use that remaining 1/2 oz of Columbus in the dry-hop stage. It gives off such a good flavour & aroma profile when you dry-hop with it!

 

US-05 sounds great for this application. If you are only going to use 1 oz of hops, though, I'd use Nottingham and ferment at the top end of its range (66-68, go with 66) to get some of its fruity esters out. If you do use US-05, make sure you don't go too law, as it throws of peachy flavours at its bottom-end temp range, and that might compete with your hops.

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I would say that's perfect, Sabres! Maybe a little more Golden DME than Josh would call for (by doubling his recipe) but only by 4 ounces or so.

If you do it, let us know how it goes! I can't wait until mine are carbed up, I know there's a good bit of hops in mine as it is (a little Columbus in a 20-minute boil to balance out the DME I added, 1 oz FF7Cs in a hop-stand, & dry-hopped with a little Columbus).

Personally, for this double-batch, I'd stick with boiling just 1/2 an ounce of hops (go with Columbus) for the 60 minutes. Then, go with a full 2 ounces of hops (your choice) in a hop-stand, & then use that remaining 1/2 oz of Columbus in the dry-hop stage. It gives off such a good flavour & aroma profile when you dry-hop with it!

US-05 sounds great for this application. If you are only going to use 1 oz of hops, though, I'd use Nottingham and ferment at the top end of its range (66-68, go with 66) to get some of its fruity esters out. If you do use US-05, make sure you don't go too law, as it throws of peachy flavours at its bottom-end temp range, and that might compete with your hops.

I was planning on using 1/2oz Summit for 60 min boil, 1/2 Summit at 20 min, 1/2oz Falconers at flameout and let wort sit for 20 minute hop stand then use 1/2oz Falconers for dry hop last seven days of fermentation.

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I decided to try one of my WDAs tonight, they've been in the bottle for a week now.

 

Oh, my...

 

13JGxmM.jpg

Head is beautiful, carbonation is a little light but acceptable (I imagine a week more for the CO² to dissolve completely into solution) and it tastes SO nice! It's not too bitter, but not too sweet. The hops... the glorious hops! I love Columbus, and even though it's not in-your-face CTZ, it's prevalent with the FF7Cs as well.

 

Nice lacing on the glass after a few a sips (done just now, no pics) - if this gets better with a little age, this will be a really great beer. Out of the 7 I have brewed that I can taste (the 8th, my Red, is still fermenting) this is my 3rd favourite beer, behind the blonde (extract) and my Duroracat RIS (Mr. Beer with added DME & steeping grains). And that's at a week old!

 

  :D

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I decided to try one of my WDAs tonight, they've been in the bottle for a week now.

Oh, my...

13JGxmM.jpg

Head is beautiful, carbonation is a little light but acceptable (I imagine a week more for the CO² to dissolve completely into solution) and it tastes SO nice! It's not too bitter, but not too sweet. The hops... the glorious hops! I love Columbus, and even though it's not in-your-face CTZ, it's prevalent with the FF7Cs as well.

Nice lacing on the glass after a few a sips (done just now, no pics) - if this gets better with a little age, this will be a really great beer. Out of the 7 I have brewed that I can taste (the 8th, my Red, is still fermenting) this is my 3rd favourite beer, behind the blonde (extract) and my Duroracat RIS (Mr. Beer with added DME & steeping grains). And that's at a week old!

:D

I'm going to let my WDA go for a month then try. I still have plenty of the wild wheat to hold me over.

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Yeah, I don't have a pipeline, as I split each batch between myself and my brew-bro.

 

  :(

 

As soon as he starts brewing (IF!!!) then we will still split each batch between us, but that means I will be getting beer from him as well as what I make.

 

I plan on not touching this beer for another 5 weeks, and comparing. It should be good to go by then, but since Justen (brew-bro) didn't go half on this batch, these are all mine and I might stick a 4-pack away for Thanksgiving.

 

  :)

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Hey, Josh, Josh, TIm, or anyone listening at Mr. Beer! Is there a way I can get a picture of the WDA label that isn't on a can already? I'd like to use that for my label I put on the bottle. (Yes, I image-searched it - they are all "on-can".)

 

I hope this goes through before the weekend, I'd like to get all labels done soon. I know, my fault for waiting until the last minute...

 

 :[

 

Maybe someone here has a can they'd cut the label off of and scan for me???

 

IDK why I didn't think about this when I had my can...

 

Crap.

 

Crap crap crap crap crap crap crap.

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Oh well, you could always buy another :-)

 

Talking of nly a week maturing, I opened a test LBK dregs Diablo bottle (with 1 oz extra Citra) and it was really good after only a week.

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I actually plan on buying another, but I have made a trade deal with a guy on another site (my comic-book site, no less!) for three of my HBs for a Pliny The Elder & a Supplication from Russian River, and I want the bottles to look nice. He's sent his already & I need something for the WDA bottle.

 

Time to start looking for some dark, snowy winter-pics...

 

  :)

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You can still make reasonable pics from the pictures of online cans

Not perfect but with a little bit more work you can enhance it some.

You are welcome to this if it helps.

 

WDAjpg

 

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I actually plan on buying another, but I have made a trade deal with a guy on another site (my comic-book site, no less!) for three of my HBs for a Pliny The Elder & a Supplication from Russian River, and I want the bottles to look nice. He's sent his already & I need something for the WDA bottle.

 

Time to start looking for some dark, snowy winter-pics...

 

  :)

Make some nice snowflake labels if you remember how to cut those from grade school.

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You can still make reasonable pics from the pictures of online cans

Not perfect but with a little bit more work you can enhance it some.

You are welcome to this if it helps.

 

Nice, but not quite what I am looking for... I just want the pic, not the MrB text. Thanks though!

 

So, Mr. Beer - is there a pic of the WDA that isn't a label on a can?

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Nice, but not quite what I am looking for... I just want the pic, not the MrB text. Thanks though!

 

So, Mr. Beer - is there a pic of the WDA that isn't a label on a can?

 

I will ask our graphics department and get back to you.

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OK, here's my plan (as of now, anyway) with the two WDA I want to order before they go off sale (you can figure out what I am doing without going into detail, I think):

 

1# wheat DME

1 gallon water

1 WDA can @ flameout

1 oz. Citra @ flameout, hold for hop-stand for 30 minutes

1 oz sweet orange peel @ flameout

1 oz Mandarina Bavaria dry-hops, last 5 days in fermenter

using 1/2 pack US-05 for yeast

I figure this will make an interesting dark ale with orange all up in your face, the Citra as a tropical backbone, and the MB as a compliment to the orange peel.

 

----------------------------

 

2# wheat DME

1 gallon water

(any hops suggestion would be taken seriously, if even necessary - see rest of ingredients)

??? bourbon-soaked oak chips

??? cacao nibs

??? vanilla bean

??? lactose

1/2 pack US-05

This will be a nice "winter warmer" with some age, with ABV somewhere in the 7.5 to 9% range, I am guessing. I need some help with amounts of some ingredients, obviously, and as noted above, any hops that would compliment the brew, if they are even necessary.

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Nice, but not quite what I am looking for... I just want the pic, not the MrB text. Thanks though!

 

So, Mr. Beer - is there a pic of the WDA that isn't a label on a can?

Oh well. I added the text as tribute, it can be taken off easily. Just copy the pic, and use Paint to crop it. 

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Yeah, I don't have a pipeline, as I split each batch between myself and my brew-bro.

:(

As soon as he starts brewing (IF!!!) then we will still split each batch between us, but that means I will be getting beer from him as well as what I make.

I plan on not touching this beer for another 5 weeks, and comparing. It should be good to go by then, but since Justen (brew-bro) didn't go half on this batch, these are all mine and I might stick a 4-pack away for Thanksgiving.

:)

This is the same deal I have between me and my best friend. He had everything he needs but he wants to brew at my place and our schedules almost never line up. Good luck man

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Oh well. I added the text as tribute, it can be taken off easily. Just copy the pic, and use Paint to crop it. 

 

Don't think I am shrugging you off - your effort is much appreciated! I am just wondering if the guys at Mr. Beer have a high-quality image of the label.

 

 :)

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OK, here's my plan (as of now, anyway) with the two WDA I want to order before they go off sale (you can figure out what I am doing without going into detail, I think):

 

1# wheat DME

1 gallon water

1 WDA can @ flameout

1 oz. Citra @ flameout, hold for hop-stand for 30 minutes

1 oz sweet orange peel @ flameout

1 oz Mandarina Bavaria dry-hops, last 5 days in fermenter

using 1/2 pack US-05 for yeast

I figure this will make an interesting dark ale with orange all up in your face, the Citra as a tropical backbone, and the MB as a compliment to the orange peel.

 

----------------------------

 

2# wheat DME

1 gallon water

(any hops suggestion would be taken seriously, if even necessary - see rest of ingredients)

??? bourbon-soaked oak chips

??? cacao nibs

??? vanilla bean

??? lactose

1/2 pack US-05

This will be a nice "winter warmer" with some age, with ABV somewhere in the 7.5 to 9% range, I am guessing. I need some help with amounts of some ingredients, obviously, and as noted above, any hops that would compliment the brew, if they are even necessary.

 

No comments/suggestions on these?

 

  :huh:

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I could not give opinion on soaked oak, I didn't soak mine. I used cluster hops with my oak experiments, it seemed to go well with the oak flavor.

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Brewed mine up today.

 

4 oz Carapils + 4 oz English Chocolate steeping grains

1/2 bag Booster

1/2 lb Dark LME

WD HME

Mr B yeast

 

Now stand back for the overflow.

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