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epete28

Old Yeast Question

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I have a standard batch of Aztec going that I pitched with a yeast package from 2015. Day 18, showing 1.016. It's probably not going to attenuate any further than this is it?

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16 minutes ago, RickBeer said:

A bit high.  But probably done.

That's what I was thinking. OG was 1.050 though, so it's still 4.5ish abv.

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No harm in letting it go 21 days. You're probably correct, it is done, but sometimes the yeast surprise you.

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Been tossing the yeast packets I don't use into a small ziplock bag in the fridge. Bad plan?

 

 

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27 minutes ago, 76shovel said:

Been tossing the yeast packets I don't use into a small ziplock bag in the fridge. Bad plan?

 

 

That's what I do too.

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1 minute ago, Shrike said:

That's what I do too.

Me too, but I know I've seen where people said they were only good for a couple years, and since the one in question is 3 years old, I was wondering.

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1 hour ago, Brian N. said:

No harm in letting it go 21 days. You're probably correct, it is done, but sometimes the yeast surprise you.

Yeah, I think I'll wait a couple more days before I crash. I've got them temp up in the 70s, so they may do a little more. Oh, and the sample I took tasted fine. Quite good actually.

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So I have a hydrometer but haven’t used it much. When you take a sample do you take it from the spigot and then re-sanitize the spigot?

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7 hours ago, Jdub said:

So I have a hydrometer but haven’t used it much. When you take a sample do you take it from the spigot and then re-sanitize the spigot?

Yeah, i take mine from the spigot after stirring the wort real good to mix and aerate, to get my OG. I use a squeeze bottle with sanitizer to jet up into the spigot several times to clean it. I take it again after cold crashing and let it sit while I bottle, so it will warm up to room temp so I can get my FG.

I always sanitize the hydrometer and tube before using since I return the sample for OG. For FG I sanitize as well, but I drink that sample after bottling.

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1 hour ago, Cato said:

Yeah, i take mine from the spigot after stirring the wort real good to mix and aerate, to get my OG. I use a squeeze bottle with sanitizer to jet up into the spigot several times to clean it. I take it again after cold crashing and let it sit while I bottle, so it will warm up to room temp so I can get my FG.

I always sanitize the hydrometer and tube before using since I return the sample for OG. For FG I sanitize as well, but I drink that sample after bottling.

I guess I should be using it. I’ve just been fermenting 21 days and not worrying about it. Seems like some brewers take frequent samples to determine if it’s finished fermenting. I’ll try using on my next brew. 

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I don't take frequent samples.  Nor do I take 2 samples, 48 hours apart, to see if it's done.  I wait at least 18 days, sometimes 19, and take a reading. If it matches my expected FG, I cold crash.  If it's too high, I evaluate letting it go another 48 hours.  

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3 hours ago, Jdub said:

I guess I should be using it. I’ve just been fermenting 21 days and not worrying about it. Seems like some brewers take frequent samples to determine if it’s finished fermenting. I’ll try using on my next brew. 

Nothing wrong with your method JDub. 

 

You should taste a sample at 21 days to make sure it didn't get stuck.  As long as a 1 ounce sample taste like flat beer at 21 days you are good to bottle. No reason to waste a bunch of beer. 

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2 hours ago, BDawg62 said:

Nothing wrong with your method JDub. 

 

You should taste a sample at 21 days to make sure it didn't get stuck.  As long as a 1 ounce sample taste like flat beer at 21 days you are good to bottle. No reason to waste a bunch of beer. 

I hear ya there BDawg....I just haven’t gotten that complex yet. I don’t know if I have had a batch get stuck yet. I need to start checking that. I need to get a squeeze bottle of sanitizer ready to rock at all times so I can sample a little at 21days or sooner to make sure it’s ready. 

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8 minutes ago, Jdub said:

I hear ya there BDawg....I just haven’t gotten that complex yet. I don’t know if I have had a batch get stuck yet. I need to start checking that. I need to get a squeeze bottle of sanitizer ready to rock at all times so I can sample a little at 21days or sooner to make sure it’s ready. 

Lol, with only 2 precious gallons in the LBK, I just get OG and FG. I ferment 18-19 days take a taste sample, and if its flat beer, I rinse the spigot and cold crash. I'm usually bottled by 21-22 days. I haven't had a stuck fermentation yet, but except for my first two batches I haven't used the small MB yeast packs, and so mostly overpitching with US-05, belle saison, or Nottingham.

I do pay close attention to my FG, to make sure I am in ballpark of expected.

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Just remember the time spent cold crashing does NOT count as time fermenting

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@Cato I know. Those are 2 precious gallons. That was my 1st thought I don’t want to waste any. I haven’t had any batches taste sweet or non-alcoholic at bottling. Bout to bottle creeps’ saison ipa this week. How much sugar did you go with for carbing?

 

Ya I’m with you. I don’t use the mrb yeast ever. With that much time invested in every batch I either order the good stuff or go to my excellent local HBS. Not to knock it bc I don’t know the difference but it’s just a suspicion. All of the PM kits come with better yeast and tell you to toss the one under the lid. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Jdub said:

@Cato I know. Those are 2 precious gallons. That was my 1st thought I don’t want to waste any. I haven’t had any batches taste sweet or non-alcoholic at bottling. Bout to bottle creeps’ saison ipa this week. How much sugar did you go with for carbing?

 

Ya I’m with you. I don’t use the mrb yeast ever. With that much time invested in every batch I either order the good stuff or go to my excellent local HBS. Not to knock it bc I don’t know the difference but it’s just a suspicion. All of the PM kits come with better yeast and tell you to toss the one under the lid. 

 

 

@Jdub, I used 1/4 tsp for my 12oz glass and one MB carbo drop for  PET bottle that I've been checking by squeezing. I think @Creeps McLane was dead on with his suggestion of using half the MB priming chart. My 3 test PET bottles after 17 days, one is rock hard and the other 2 are very firm with just a little squeeze left to them. This is on par with a normal batch carb schedule.

I have a 12oz in the fridge a few days early, but judging from those PETS it's time to try a sample bottle, quality control and all ya know!

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58 minutes ago, Cato said:

@Jdub, I used 1/4 tsp for my 12oz glass and one MB carbo drop for  PET bottle that I've been checking by squeezing. I think @Creeps McLane was dead on with his suggestion of using half the MB priming chart. My 3 test PET bottles after 17 days, one is rock hard and the other 2 are very firm with just a little squeeze left to them. This is on par with a normal batch carb schedule.

I have a 12oz in the fridge a few days early, but judging from those PETS it's time to try a sample bottle, quality control and all ya know!

Thanks for the tip. Gonna be bottling that up tomorrow evening. May do glass with a few pet’s as well. Ya gotta test it out early for QC. I just tried my B.B. porter a month early just because. 

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I've read of some people boiling old or unwanted yeast in the wort as yeast food. Can someone explain that? What are the benefits? Thanks

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For brewing a Mr. Beer batch?  Zero.

 

I've been brewing for 6 years and never have done that.  If you pitch healthy yeast in the proper amount, you never have to provide it with extra food.

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1 hour ago, Marius said:

I've read of some people boiling old or unwanted yeast in the wort as yeast food. Can someone explain that? What are the benefits? Thanks

Marius,

 

As @RickBeer said there is really no need to do it for a Mr. Beer batch or any batch of beer.  That being said, I brew All Grain batches and always add commercial yeast nutrient in addition to pitching plenty of healthy yeast.  For me it is more insurance than a necessity, IMHO it is $0.20 well spent.  Using old yeast in the boil serves the same purpose as commercial yeast nutrient, commercial yeast nutrient is dead yeast and some other minerals to help with yeast health.

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Jdub - The MB yeast are just fine, unless you have a recipe brew that requires a special yeast. Tim or Josh can probably fill you in on more specific details, but I find that the MB yeast attenuate the sugars fairly well and flock well too. I don't cold crash and my beers are clear: After a couple of months in the bottle, everything settles. When I pour my beers I leave a little in the bottle at the end and pour slowly.

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9 hours ago, Jdub said:

Thanks for the tip. Gonna be bottling that up tomorrow evening. May do glass with a few pet’s as well. Ya gotta test it out early for QC. I just tried my B.B. porter a month early just because. 

@Jdub, having a saison this evening from a 12oz bottle. It's carbed but not enough and either needs another week to 10 days or I should have used a sugar dot per bottle which is 1/2 tsp. 

The beer itself is very good, actually much better than I could have hoped for and very smooth. Mine came in at 7% ABV.

 

The PETS I carbed feel just right and that makes me think I should have gone with a sugar dot for my glass 12oz bottles.

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1 hour ago, Cato said:

@Jdub, having a saison this evening from a 12oz bottle. It's carbed but not enough and either needs another week to 10 days or I should have used a sugar dot per bottle which is 1/2 tsp. 

The beer itself is very good, actually much better than I could have hoped for and very smooth. Mine came in at 7% ABV.

 

The PETS I carbed feel just right and that makes me think I should have gone with a sugar dot for my glass 12oz bottles.

@Cato ok thanks for the tip! Glad the taste was good. Maybe your glass bottles will carb up with more time? I’m so excited about the pipeline I will have this summer! Good work.

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48 minutes ago, Jdub said:

@Cato ok thanks for the tip! Glad the taste was good. Maybe your glass bottles will carb up with more time? I’m so excited about the pipeline I will have this summer! Good work.

Yes, I usually carb/ condition for a month minimum before trub or sample bottle, so good possibility that given some more time it'll be on the money.

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18 hours ago, Brian N. said:

Jdub - The MB yeast are just fine, unless you have a recipe brew that requires a special yeast. Tim or Josh can probably fill you in on more specific details, but I find that the MB yeast attenuate the sugars fairly well and flock well too. I don't cold crash and my beers are clear: After a couple of months in the bottle, everything settles. When I pour my beers I leave a little in the bottle at the end and pour slowly.

@Brian N. I have no doubt that the MRB yeast is top notch. I’m just sayin that if I’m at my LHBS or ordering on mrb website I don’t mind ordering some US-05 or something else. I’m sure I wouldnt be able to tell the difference but in my mind I’m using the best ingredients that I can. 

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And don't forget raising the cost of each batch by around $4...  Each yeast is different, but there is no reason to swap out the Mr. Beer yeast, especially for US-05 which is very neutral.  

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Ok I give.....due to lack of experience and knowledge. However I have been brewing almost nothing but PM recipes since my 1st 2 basic extract fails. Almost all of them say to toss the yeast under the lid and use the alternate yeast that they come with. There’s also something about going to my local HBS and pulling one out of their fridge. I like that, and having a discussion about my brew and what will work best is very cool. 

 

Also so I am trying to avoid fermenting at higher temps. Us-05 has a range of 59-71? Mrb yeast says 65-75. 

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@Cato @Creeps McLane bottled up the saison ipa this evening. Decided to go with one domino dot per 12 oz bottle. We’ll see how that works out. My sample tasted good. Had a lot of floaties on top despite cold crashing. Kind of got in the way of the spout on the tail end of bottling. Got 22 bottles out of the lbk. One side note....I fermented in a cooler in the garage with ice bottles. We did have a cool front move in and it might have gotten a little cool for a few days during the 1st few weeks. I moved it in the house for the last week. It’s around 70-72 all the time. 

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9 hours ago, Jdub said:

Ok I give.....due to lack of experience and knowledge. However I have been brewing almost nothing but PM recipes since my 1st 2 basic extract fails. Almost all of them say to toss the yeast under the lid and use the alternate yeast that they come with. There’s also something about going to my local HBS and pulling one out of their fridge. I like that, and having a discussion about my brew and what will work best is very cool. 

 

Also so I am trying to avoid fermenting at higher temps. Us-05 has a range of 59-71? Mrb yeast says 65-75. 

 

16 hours ago, RickBeer said:

And don't forget raising the cost of each batch by around $4...  Each yeast is different, but there is no reason to swap out the Mr. Beer yeast, especially for US-05 which is very neutral.  

JDub,

 

Ignore what the cheapskate above said.  If you want to add $4 to each batch of beer you brew then by all means do just that.  I personally quit using the Mr. Beer yeast as well after a few batches.  Two reasons, I think it gave a character to the beer that I didn't like (could have been other mistakes).  And second, it is not a yeast that you can just go buy at your LHBS.  So if I decided to brew something that didn't use a Mr Beer HME then I wanted to know that I could trust the yeast I was able to obtain.

 

Dawg

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36 minutes ago, BDawg62 said:

 

JDub,

 

Ignore what the cheapskate above said.  If you want to add $4 to each batch of beer you brew then by all means do just that.  I personally quit using the Mr. Beer yeast as well after a few batches.  Two reasons, I think it gave a character to the beer that I didn't like (could have been other mistakes).  And second, it is not a yeast that you can just go buy at your LHBS.  So if I decided to brew something that didn't use a Mr Beer HME then I wanted to know that I could trust the yeast I was able to obtain.

 

Dawg

Dawg....Lol thanks for the support. Yeah with the potential time invested of 2 months to 1 year of waiting for your brew to mature an extra $4 wasn’t on my radar, but I understand where he’s coming from. I’ve had 3 apple cider batches early on and all 3 were using the stock yeast. Could have been other factors but I don’t know. I do know some of the others have a lower temp range. 

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1 hour ago, Jdub said:

Dawg....Lol thanks for the support. Yeah with the potential time invested of 2 months to 1 year of waiting for your brew to mature an extra $4 wasn’t on my radar, but I understand where he’s coming from. I’ve had 3 apple cider batches early on and all 3 were using the stock yeast. Could have been other factors but I don’t know. I do know some of the others have a lower temp range. 

I like brewing at the cooler end of the range and I tend to go with what has proven to work for me. Lol, very good chance that I shy away from MB yeast after the esters from the first two batches. As you say with the time invested, the cost of the ingredients is not as important as the time. The US-05 has been my go to for most batches and really like its temp range, but have used the Belle Saison, and Nottingham, and have a Belgian dark in the queue that will use the Abbaye yeast.

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2 hours ago, Cato said:

I like brewing at the cooler end of the range and I tend to go with what has proven to work for me. Lol, very good chance that I shy away from MB yeast after the esters from the first two batches. As you say with the time invested, the cost of the ingredients is not as important as the time. The US-05 has been my go to for most batches and really like its temp range, but have used the Belle Saison, and Nottingham, and have a Belgian dark in the queue that will use the Abbaye yeast.

That’s what is so great about brewing. There are unlimited options to make your beer better. I have some other yeasts in my fridge along with ingredients waiting for a LBK to free up. Cool stuff. 

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